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By Half-dude - 10 Years Ago
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Hey guys,
So I did a full valve adjustment on my 272 about a week ago. I used this guy's method which seemed pretty easy to grasp since you don't have to worry about finding TDC to do the adjustments. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SqG-Q_kVI3s
After doing it I went on a test drive which after about 10 miles the car started smoking really bad out the tailpipe. Upon later inspection it turned out the intake valve pushrod on cylinder 5 had come loose and was hitting the valve intermittently. I fixed that and now the engine seems to smoke less, still a little bit but that might just be how it's always been.. I never payed much attention till now. ^^;
Anyway I still feel that something is off, it seems like the engine is stumbling a bit, as in.. a tiny variance during the idle it's pretty stubtle so maybe I'm just paranoid now. BUT I do know this. When I shifted into drive and just sat there with the parking brake on. I heard what almost sounded just like a wood pecker and in a similar pattern too. A sort of "clik-clik-clik-clik- ..........clik-clik-...................clik-clik-clik-clik-...." my gut says it sounds like a pushrod but I haven't looked at the valves while the engine is running yet.
Anyway I'm just taking suggestions, has anyone ever heard a similar sound before? Or had problems with pushrods being loose after a valve adjustment? It seems like on these cars you'll adjust the valve and it'll be nice and snug at 0.019 but then turn on the engine and run the valves for a bit and they'll be loose.
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By Brodie55 - 10 Years Ago
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http://y-blocksforever.com/tech/html/valvelash.html
Here is an easier way that doesn't even require feeler gauges.
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By Half-dude - 10 Years Ago
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Wow really? No feeler gauges? Sounds like magic! *clicks*
Okay that makes sense.. but the guy's tutorial is correct on how it get the intake and exhaust valves on the heel of the cam lube right?
Adjust Intake - When exhaust valve is just starting to open
Adjust Exhaust - When intake valve is almost closed
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By Brodie55 - 10 Years Ago
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Mark the damper every 90 degrees. Start with no.1 cylinder at tdc on the compression stroke. Turn damper 90 degees and lash the next cylinder in the firing order. Reapeat. Should take less than 30 minutes once you get the hang of it.
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By wlj1943 - 10 Years Ago
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Old motorcycle method that works OK for first pass on single cylinder engines, but is not too practical for over 4 cylinder engines, as you can miss the firing order/intake or exhaust sequence. Bine there, and did exactly that.
WLJ
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By Brodie55 - 10 Years Ago
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What is so tough about counting to eight? Both valves on each cylinder will be closed with this method. The firing order is cast into the top of the intake manifold in case you forget.
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By speedpro56 - 10 Years Ago
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When Exhaust starts to open simply adjust Intake.
When Intake starts to close adjust Exhaust.
Has worked for me every time without fail.
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By Ted - 10 Years Ago
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Here’s the link to a previous thread that goes into several different methods in which to adjust the valve lash. All are equally effective and you simply pick the one that works best for you. While I tend to like the firing order method myself, the Exhaust Open, Intake Closing method works well and especially where the firing order isn't easily accessable.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic8614.aspx
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By Rono - 10 Years Ago
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With any of these methods, turning the motor over to get to the correct valve positions gives me the most trouble. If you leave the battery connected and tap the ignition, you often go past the point you need to set the lash. Turning the crank by hand is a problem for me because I have an electric puller fan which prevents me from reaching the crank dampner bolt from the top, so it's more of a 2 person job; one to turn the crank from underneath the car, and then a spotter for the valve position. Anyone have any suggestions?
Rono
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By charliemccraney - 10 Years Ago
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I use a remote starter switch and adjust each cylinder when it's at tdc on compression (both valves closed). It really helps if you mark the damper every 90 degrees. The lifter is on the base circle for quite a while, so there is a large window of opportunity to adjust it at the right spot. Bumping the starter should be accurate enough. If it is slightly ahead or behind the 90 degree marking, it will be ok.
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By Rono - 10 Years Ago
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Thanks Charlie. Did you make your own remote starter switch?
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By Half-dude - 10 Years Ago
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Alright I did the 90 degree technique tonight, when I was doing it it didn't feel like I was making that big of an adjustment from what I'd made with the feeler gauge, and with some of them I think that's true. But when she ran man, I could hear the difference! You can still hear some clicking, but I think it's the normal amount for the Y-block. The idle is smoother, and it is much quiter. Thanks a lot for the advice guys.  Now if I can just stop the engine from running so hot I'll be in business.
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By charliemccraney - 10 Years Ago
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The remote starter switch is a pretty common tool. Mine is a Craftsman from about 15 years ago. You could make it with some wire, alligator clips, and a momentary switch.
Tim uses a remote starter switch in the video linked at the very beginning of this thread.
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By Half-dude - 10 Years Ago
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I actually don't have a remote start switch, but what I do have is interesting. I actually ordered a reproduction solenoid for my 55 off Concours a while back when I suspected the solenoid of being bad on the car. Lol I ended up breaking the new solenoid by over-tightening the bolt connectors and cracking the case.
The cool thing was that I found out that solenoid has a push-button crank button on the bottom which manually forces a connection in the solenoid while the button is depressed. It no longer works as a solenoid but it works for that.
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By Kahuna - 10 Years Ago
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Fortunate that your car is 6 volts, as all 12 volt solenoids don't have that feature
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