Hey guys,

So I did a full valve adjustment on my 272 about a week ago. I used this guy's method which seemed pretty easy to grasp since you don't have to worry about finding TDC to do the adjustments. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SqG-Q_kVI3s

After doing it I went on a test drive which after about 10 miles the car started smoking really bad out the tailpipe. Upon later inspection it turned out the intake valve pushrod on cylinder 5 had come loose and was hitting the valve intermittently. I fixed that and now the engine seems to smoke less, still a little bit but that might just be how it's always been.. I never payed much attention till now. ^^;

Anyway I still feel that something is off, it seems like the engine is stumbling a bit, as in.. a tiny variance during the idle it's pretty stubtle so maybe I'm just paranoid now. BUT I do know this. When I shifted into drive and just sat there with the parking brake on. I heard what almost sounded just like a wood pecker and in a similar pattern too. A sort of "clik-clik-clik-clik- ..........clik-clik-...................clik-clik-clik-clik-...." my gut says it sounds like a pushrod but I haven't looked at the valves while the engine is running yet.

Anyway I'm just taking suggestions, has anyone ever heard a similar sound before? Or had problems with pushrods being loose after a valve adjustment? It seems like on these cars you'll adjust the valve and it'll be nice and snug at 0.019 but then turn on the engine and run the valves for a bit and they'll be loose.

http://y-blocksforever.com/tech/html/valvelash.html

Here is an easier way that doesn't even require feeler gauges.

Wow really? No feeler gauges? Sounds like magic! *clicks*

Okay that makes sense.. but the guy's tutorial is correct on how it get the intake and exhaust valves on the heel of the cam lube right?


Adjust Intake - When exhaust valve is just starting to open
Adjust Exhaust - When intake valve is almost closed

Mark the damper every 90 degrees. Start with no.1 cylinder at tdc on the compression stroke. Turn damper 90 degees and lash the next cylinder in the firing order. Reapeat. Should take less than 30 minutes once you get the hang of it.

Old motorcycle method that works OK for first pass on single cylinder engines, but is not too practical for over 4 cylinder engines, as you can miss the firing order/intake or exhaust sequence. Bine there, and did exactly that.
WLJ

What is so tough about counting to eight? Both valves on each cylinder will be closed with this method. The firing order is cast into the top of the intake manifold in case you forget.

When Exhaust starts to open simply adjust Intake.
When Intake starts to close adjust Exhaust.
Has worked for me every time without fail.


-Gary Burnette-

Here’s the link to a previous thread that goes into several different methods in which to adjust the valve lash.  All are equally effective and you simply pick the one that works best for you.  While I tend to like the firing order method myself, the Exhaust Open, Intake Closing method works well and especially where the firing order isn't easily accessable.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic8614.aspx 

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

With any of these methods, turning the motor over to get to the correct valve positions gives me the most trouble. If you leave the battery connected and tap the ignition, you often go past the point you need to set the lash. Turning the crank by hand is a problem for me because I have an electric puller fan which prevents me from reaching the crank dampner bolt from the top, so it's more of a 2 person job; one to turn the crank from underneath the car, and then a spotter for the valve position. Anyone have any suggestions?
Rono

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

I use a remote starter switch and adjust each cylinder when it's at tdc on compression (both valves closed).  It really helps if you mark the damper every 90 degrees.  The lifter is on the base circle for quite a while, so there is a large window of opportunity to adjust it at the right spot.  Bumping the starter should be accurate enough.  If it is slightly ahead or behind the 90 degree marking, it will be ok.



Lawrenceville, GA