I have the Powermaster generator/alternator on my 1957 Skyliner.  I bought the 2 wire set up so that it would turn off the dash gen light.  I used the original harness.  I had to cut the internals on the regulator so that there were no internal connections but by wiring it through the regulator, I have the look of a generator and regulator with the great output of an alternator system.  I have factory air on my Skyliner, so it takes a two groove pulley.  That was not a problem, as I simply took the pulley from the generator and put it on the Powermaster unit.  The only problem I had was that the generator uses a woodruff key to engage the pulley.  The Powermaster unit does not use a woodruff key and relies on nut tension to lock the pulley to the shaft.  That means you have to put the nut on extra tight.  I did not and had some slippage and poor charging until I figured it out.  I notified them that a keyed shaft would be a good idea, but they said no one else complained so I am guessing they are not willing to go to the extra machining to make this match the generators.  I love that way this looks and performs.  So I am pleased.  Yes. it is way more expensive than putting on a modern style alternator, but if you are going to a near stock look, this is it! 

When I converted my 64 Fairlane to a alternator, I did the same thing.  I got a diagram from the Fairlane clubs magazine.  Didn't have to cut anything





54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

3G is a fairly old conversion now a days, I been planning on a 3G conversion on my old ford truck for the last 8 years now.  Just never got around to it but will be doing it now how ever since I have to put a engine in.  Nows the time to junk the 1G and get a 3G so my extra lighting can be supported without fear of overtaxing the 1G.


1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

That's my concern with a small time one man operation he gives a 3 year warranty but the guy is not young he is up in age pushing I want to say 70 almost.  Means he wont be around forever and then you are screwed when his alternator conversion finally fails.
Plus there is the cost, I could get the Powermaster PowerGen series that they've had out for a few years they are a big company and don't seem to be going anywhere any time soon.  The powergen how ever is designed as an alternator with a generator housing.  Not a generator housing with custom alternator pieces fabricated for it like the other guy is doing.  Price is a lot cheaper as well.  I just need to look more at the wiring because I would like to keep it looking OEM while being more driver friendly.

Generator would probably be fine for me though considering the car doesn't have anything on it other than a radio and heater.  I already installed LED lights in the dash so that saved me some current draw there, got some new warm white ones to install as the white ones I had on hand are pure white and they are just too white they look way too out of place.


1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

The latest Hot Rod magazine has a article on 3G Motorcraft alt. conversions. If you want to stay FoMoCo.

Miracle Engine Rebuilders
"If it runs, It's a Miracle!"

Rusty
I did as Miker on my 56 Ford using an original voltage regulator & making it into a non-funtioning terminal block.
I am also using all new original wiring harnesses throughout the car. Purchased from Mac's
I only had to splice or change the connection on one (1) wire to do so.
I am using an S-10 or S-12 alternator. Alternator came with the car, but was not mounted.
Other than the alternator itself, all wiring appears stock. (Well, maybe not to the purist, but damn close)
Jim
If I were more computer literate, I would be able to get you a picture.
My ONLY concern with what you are doing is the reliability of those modified  generators,
but maybe my concerns are unfounded.
J

Greetings to all:  Here is a G1 install in my '64 F100. The top 2 brackets have not been altered and are as came with the truck. The alternator pivot hole was drilled just large enough to accept a longer pivot bolt. The spacer between the ears of the bracket on the cylinder head is nothing more than a sized 3/8" I think, piece of pipe with a couple washers for shimming. (Been a few years since I did this.) The lower adjusting bracket is from a passenger car but had the best shape, offset and length to make this work. It's close to being maxed out but through trial and error, a belt was selected to make this work very well. The regulator is a Motorcraft electronic version with a '65 reproduction (Mustang) cover. There are numerous harnesses reproduced for he Mustang sold by NPD of which I chose the one that I thought would be good for this conversion. I did unwrap it and made a kind of hybrid harness to suit the truck. The wrapping material is also available from NPD along with the engineering tag. Since the subject came up again, I'll try to post a few pics. BTW, the Ford 3 wire system IMHO is second to none. Rock solid regulation sensing the voltage on the bus, not the alternator itself and it looks correct. Hope this helps, JEFF.......................

 





 


64F100 57FAIRLANE500

Well if there is a way to use the OEM harness and just change the wiring at the oem regulator then I will have no problem spending $400 on the powermaster powergen alternator in the generator case, my problem is that's a one wire hook up and the new model you can get has an optional gen light terminal so it looks like the original generator with two studs on the top of the generator.  Would also love for it to be like oem though where it has a power wire to activate the alternator.  Ive had one wire alternators ive installed at work before that were hit and miss.  some would start charging automatically at 1,000 rpm engine speed, others ive had you had to hit the throttle to 2,000 rpm to get it charging.  For a cold engine I do not like going over 1,500 rpm when on choke so I would have to be assured that a 1,500 rpm cold idle would start the alternator charging before I am comfortable with buying a 1 wire setup.


1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi

Rusty, this is an aside to your last comment on a long thread. When I bought my first alternator conversion, part of the instructions were how to rewire at the voltage regulator. It basically turned it into a junction block, it no longer functioned. So there might be a way around cutting up the harness and still make it work. Been many years ago, I don’t remember the particulars.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

That's the thing for me if I were to do it I want it to look like a generator.  Which I can always run the powermaster powergen series they offer and chop the wiring up but I planned on buying all new wiring harnesses for the car as mine is old and brittle.  Cant justify spending big money on a powergen and a new harness only to cut the harness up to wire up the powergen cause they don't offer a oem style hook up.


1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan - 292 Y8 - Ford-O-Matic - 155,000 mi