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55 Ford Fairlane Refresh and Driver Resto Blog Begins!

Posted By Daniel Jessup 10 Years Ago
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Daniel Jessup
Posted 8 Years Ago
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ian57tbird (10/19/2016)
You still need to take care even with those discs as they still create some heat and it doesn't take much to get warping.


Thanks for the reminder... I work it pretty good and never stay in one place too long. I would hate to have to deal with oil canning.



Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend" w00t
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com


Daniel Jessup
Posted 8 Years Ago
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Been so long since my last post, almost forgot where this thread was at! The last month has been very busy but hopefully it is showing signs of letting up a bit as we head into the new year soon. I did get around to start putting up a paint booth - pvc and plastic with filtering/ventilation - and have finished prepping the fenders. I am pretty happy with their look and feel after all the blocking and fine prepping. The scissor stands I have been using for the fenders are lightweight and versatile, just not a good fit for actually spraying. I was able to hit the fenders with primer alright but it took some finagling.

So... it was time to consider what to hang the fenders now that we need to spray the SSU. Enter the versatile 2x4!





I built them on a scissor principle, but much higher. The top sits about 55" off the floor level. These were built so I could have access to both sides, tall enough to be able to shoot the bottom of the fender comfortably, and with a dog leg attached so that the bottom portion of the fender will "stick out" a bit for easier access. They are 40" wide and are obviously built for 55/56 fenders. The good thing is they fold up just about as flat as 4" give or take.



For those of you concerned about the dust... YES, I did wipe down the wood and prime the stands once they were all bolted together and functional.



What have you guys used in the past? I have seen some good stands manufactured by different companies, but I really didn't want to spend the dough because I don't do this full time and I am not sure how many cars i will ever do in my lifetime. Any more DIY on fenders, hood, trunk lid, doors??? your pics would give us good ideas if you have some available.


Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend" w00t
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com


Daniel Jessup
Posted 8 Years Ago
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I went with a PVC frame up and 5 mil plastic for a make shift paint booth. A box fan to bring air in and a box fan to exhaust the air. The "air replacement" and fume containment was excellent... until the exhaust fan filter clogged up - then it was a blow out as the overspray found its way out every nook and cranny under the plastic.

The paint is an Eastwood SSU color called Pinup Red. The gun I used was a Devilbiss FLG670, with a twin stage 5 HP compressor that has plenty of flow with those High Flow fittings. CFM was not a problem. As a matter of fact, the overspray seemed to be quite a bit much when compared to my cheapie HVLP guns I have. The flow, atomization, and ultimately the finish of what I sprayed was excellent. I am very happy with it, but I am confused at all of the overspray. My Devilbiss gauge showed 23 psi at the gun, and I had the nice cigar shape spray test pattern from the gun. The tip is a 1.5, and the material knob on the gun was wide open. The paint was mixed according to the manufacturer's recommendations. Any ideas or is it just something I need to live with and just replace filters more often?

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend" w00t
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com


Daniel Jessup
Posted 8 Years Ago
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Don't want you all to think I've been lazy!

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend" w00t
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com


Daniel Jessup
Posted 8 Years Ago
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Sprayed the final parts that needed to be red in color - the body + doors still need red of course.





The "paint booth" really worked well but it did not see that much in overspray. I used a HF detail gun -



It has a .6 tip, and the SSU was mixed 3:1 with a splash of reducer. I turned the PSI down to 22 or so and the paint atomized nicely and flowed well out of the gun. The gun did not leak at all or have any issues - the pieces are a little difficult to clean but they came out nice with Urethane Reducer used as a solvent to remove the residue. I think I will end up painting the door jams and the hood channel with this gun.

One more shot of the fender in better light....



And I had some clear coat delivered just today. The plan is to take on the panels and parts with 800 grit paper before clear coating with a 1.3 tip. Any suggestions on clear coat let me know. Smile



Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend" w00t
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com


Daniel Jessup
Posted 8 Years Ago
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Merry Christmas! Everybody in the family "wound down" tonight after eating a second time and playing a few games together, having a Gingerbread House contest, etc so I said, "off to the garage" to install a Christmas present.

Almost 20 years ago my wife bought me an entry level, though very nice, Craftsman tool box combo for Christmas. For years I had been looking for a way to add a riser, or at least something in the middle and finally this year my wife pulled the trigger on this middle chest with drawers. Sears was running that Black Friday, free shipping, deep discount special back in November so I decided to take a shot to see if a newer model would work/fit on what I had kept all these years. Here are some photos of the install...

First I removed the top chest unit with the two bolts that hold it to the lower cabinet and then I removed the one large drawer in the lower cabinet. The new middle chest was put into position to check the hole alignment and position so its lower drawer was also removed. The size and dimensions were perfect - roughly 12 inches deep by 26 inches wide. The holes were way off and so I just marked new locations and drilled away.







The original slotted holes were in the rear of the cabinet, but the new holes had to placed at the front. Easy breezy and to top it off I used nuts with serrated faces so that one wrench was all that was required to tighten it down.

I thought this was pretty telling...



I don't know where the new unit was made but of course the old tool chest/cabinet combo was purchased years ago. A good number of people are saying that the Craftsman tool boxes are now being made overseas...

Next came the mount of the old chest on top of the new middle chest to check the alignment for holes... way off lol.



New holes had to be drilled after measuring. This process was a little more tricky because the original chest had nut inserts so there was not much room for error. Also, lining this up would be problematic because of the location at the back of the chest and I really did not want to remove so many items from the wall to get it out to roll. So... we measured twice, drilled once, and then got out a portable LED to see exactly where the holes were lining up.





Thankfully that worked well and with very little fanfare the new unit has been installed. Obviously the drawer colors are black, but so be it. At the ultra low cost of the new chest who cares?





Took a few minutes to trim some tool mat and then it was time to reorganize my stuffed drawers and put the new space to good use. The unit on the left houses most of my mechanic tools, the one on the right holds most of my woodworking tools.

Anyone else get that deal from Sears for Christmas? I was thankful that a "retro-fit" went pretty well with what I have.

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend" w00t
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com


Daniel Jessup
Posted 8 Years Ago
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Check out this clear coat! pretty happy with first time results - these have not been sanded or buffed yet. I do have some small places to take care of but they won't show up on camera.



It is Tamco brand clear coat, HC 2100 euro. Very easy to shoot and lays out very nicely.

The weird thing is that my mom and dad are in town and his 2014 Ford Truck has what looks to be a very close, or even spot on, color match to what I am spraying lol. I am using an Eastwood SSU called Pinup Red for color in this two tone job. Crazy. I guess I never realized it, but the Ford truck has more orange peel than my paint job on these headlight hoods. I hear people talk about factory orange peel but never considered it. Crazier.





Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend" w00t
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com


Daniel Jessup
Posted 8 Years Ago
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Supercharged

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Round 2 with the Devilbiss FLG670 tonight in the "paint booth" o shoot the white on both of the fenders.
Things went pretty well. The Wimbledon White paint looks good - can't wait to peel back the tape and see the Red/White tutone combination on those fenders. I fiddled with the gun a bit more and dialed back the psi from the 23 I shot last time (lost of overspray but good coverage, etc) to just about 15 psi at the air inlet. PLENTY of pressure and volume to lay it out nicely and much less overspray this time in the booth. On the first coat on one of the fenders I thought I saw a small spot where the surface was contaminated, but on the second and third coat it disappeared. Not sure what that was. I went over the surfaces pretty good with Eastwood's Pre like I always methodically do... an hour later there were no signs of problems when I took the photos.
 

the most rewarding part of all this is kind of reflected in this photo (sorry, my camera lighting was pretty dim but you can see the shine of course).

This is the same fender that had the ugly antenna hole that someone had cobbled up. A number of posts back I had to weld in some metal in that area and make sure it was all "seamless" in that particular area. Glad it turned out nice... no sign of the original damage!

The FLG 670 is a gun I am getting use to and enjoy spraying with it, but boy it takes a little bit to clean it up well after a spraying session.

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend" w00t
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com


Bobwanna
Posted 8 Years Ago
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Daniel, Thanks for keeping up on this project and sharing with us the products and tools used especially stuff from HF. I have learned much about painting here since I am more of wrencher on cars - Bob

AKA   Bob-93021
Daniel Jessup
Posted 7 Years Ago
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Bobwanna (12/31/2016)
Daniel, Thanks for keeping up on this project and sharing with us the products and tools used especially stuff from HF. I have learned much about painting here since I am more of wrencher on cars - Bob


No problem Bob, I keep posting here because I am a fellow Y blocker and like you I enjoy turning wrenches on these old motors quite a bit. The foray into quality restoration work such as body, paint, etc is still pretty much new to me as I walk through this process. Glad to hear someone is being helped. The same thread here has a much larger following over on the Fordbarn.com's forum. Not too many reply or comment here --- this is mostly an engine site.



Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend" w00t
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com




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