I do wonder Dennis if that will work with this Urethane. It comes from Eastwood and the Tech Sheet says that no reducer is required (it seemed pretty thin before mixing with activator/hardener). When I added hardener to it, I mixed per the 3:1 ratio and then sprayed about 10 minutes after that. Would you believe that within 30 minutes the paint had already hardened? I had a devil of a time cleaning up the paint gun. It ended up getting filled with crud once I poured paint thinner in the cup to clean it out. I think next time I will go with the disposable cup. Once I am done, remove the cup and trash it, install the clean cup, fill with thinner and then spray to clean out the gun itself.

Have you ever used a Urethane product like what I am talking about?

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

Dan, if it happens again that you can't paint, put the paint in the refridgerator. When I painted the 54 f 100, I didn't get enough paint around the rear window opening. I called a friend and he said put it in the fridge. He told me next day add more reducer and spray the touch up area. Then add more reducer and spray again. It blended right in. I was using acrylic enamel.

  Dennis in Lititz PA

Believe it or not, the Harbor Freight "special"
You would not believe how well it sprays. It is not too versatile as it only comes with a 1.4 tip, but it sprays the urethane topcoat very nicely and evenly... NO DRIPS at the gun either.
When I get to painting the exterior I will probably pick up a nicer gun. Maybe the Eastwood Concours gun - it has good reviews.

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

Nice job Daniel....what type of spray gun did you use?

Rono

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

Tonight I had a really comedic episode with painting the firewall and other interior parts. Last Saturday I had shot a little more TAMCO direct to metal primer surface and wet-sanded (yep, wet sanded) the firewall down to prep for the topcoat. I don't know about you guys but my sinuses sure like the wet sanding route. I know it's messy and you could put what I know about body work in thimble and still need a microscope, but it beats the dust and all. I have dust masks, the 3M charcoal filters, etc, but if I can get away with not having to wear them I am all for it. By the way, the TAMCO primer is the real ticket - it sprays nicely out of the gun and it is easy (soft) to sand.

Welp, after getting everything prepped for paint I decided to shoot some tonight. You guys know the drill, you get home (about 5:30 pm), eat some supper with the wife and kiddos, then remember you have to mow the lawn because there is a house showing tomorrow, do some general yard work outside, etc. Ok, now what? is there enough time to shoot some paint before it gets dark? Well, everything is masked so let's roll the car out and get the parts out on the paint rack, mix some paint and give her a go!

I'm using the Eastwood brand (I think it is made by Kirker) single stage Urethane paint. I chose to go with the original tutone so we mixed the 60s Mustang Wimbledon White and away we go. As I pour the paint and make sure I get the right ratio I hear this rumble outside. "No way," I say to myself. "Ain't no rain in the forecast and I just came in from mowing and we are clear and we are good."

Yeh right... anyway, as I pour the paint in the cup and start sealing the lid I kid you not... THUNDERSTORM! Aaarrrgghhhhh  You have got to be kidding! I looked like Scamper the Squirrel running around grabbing parts, the 55, tripping over the air hose, and what have you. Now what?

I have all the paint mixed so what to do? Throw away the paint and wait another day? Nah, too much Scotch-Irish in me for that! I got things set up quickly and shot in the garage after covering a few things. It really was not too bad but suffice to say it is next to impossible to get every speck of dust off the firewall before you shoot the paint! I need a paint booth for sure.

Here are some photos. I was surprised by the high gloss look of the paint - we will see what she has when it all cures. The paint shot well, NO RUNS... imagine that! My wife even came out to give her A+ on the thing! I sent a photo to my FIL and we will see what he says when he takes a look at it.

 

 

 

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

I am working on putting together a Youtube channel for all of you who have requested videos. I am at the airport in Washington Dulles right now and the internet speed is pretty fast.
Here is the latest link to my videos...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ecyn583wPEI

I have several on there. If you want to see the rest of them just click on my channel name and it will show you the rest.

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/YpHDSxaQR1E" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
How does this look? Can anyone give me some feedback? I don't think my screen is showing the links correctly.



Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

The above is a link and a test to see if the video will embed (this is a video with just a slight rev on the enigne).
Below is a link to the photobucket website and where another video is located. I have 3 or 4 posted so far. For some reason I am still getting a square with a circle/hash in the upper left hand corner? Can anyone else see the video?

If not here is a link to the photobucket account too.
http://vid249.photobucket.com/albums/gg208/danaxjessup/100_3125_zpswv99hevy.mp4


Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

I am flying to Florida tomorrow morning and had to get quite a few things ready tonight so I did not have much time.
Here is a video link if anyone is interested:http://s249.photobucket.com/user/danaxjessup/media/Initial%20Cold%20Start%20-%20Retarded%20Timing_zpsii8vh96c.mp4.html
I will try to put up more tomorrow. I have quite a few good photos and loads of video. I do not have a youtube or vimeo account so I reckon I need that to embed video here.
Long story short ... I am very happy. Virtually no oil leaks during the 20 minute or more run, and the only water leak I had was water out the overflow tube when the tstat was taking its time opening up (195 degree). The only drip I had was from the new oil pump cover plate which I did not rebuild/install, I just installed that out of the box. Once I tightened up the offending bolt, she was all sealed up good.
In the video, the timing is RETARDED a tick, but I got that sorted out quickly. She came to life quickly on a dead cold start so I was glad for that.
Here are some quick photo shots of the action tonight. Only water was used. I will be gone an entire week so I drained the block and the radiator before I came out of the shop...
 
 
 
 

More later


Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

Last night I got back into the shop and installed the valley pan, exhaust manifolds, and the fuel pump.

First the Valley Pan: I used some acetone to remove the paint around the rim of the block where the gasket goes. After that I used a very small thin bead of black hi-temp silicone gasket maker, aligned the rubber gasket on the block and then prepped my pan to make sure we would mate up well to the block. As you know, sometimes these things can be interesting because of warpage over the years caused from overtightening. Put a thin bead of gasket maker on the pan as well so that both the top and bottom of the gasket have a thin coating of silicone so that you will get an excellent seal.
 

 

The trick with the valley pan is to get your gasket to cooperate as you slide the pan over the block, between the edges of the intake ports on your heads (if you know Y blocks this can be a pain - especially if you have shaved your heads). I use a very small flatblade screwdriver to position the edges of the rubber gasket before I install the two grommets and bolts. Once the pan and gasket are positioned properly all the way around, I tighten down the bolts alternatively until the goo just begins to squeeze out of the gasket/pan mating area. Stop and let it rest for a while and go on to tackle something else while the silicone sets up. I like to install the teapot PCV mount at this time...
 
As you can see I have the intake manifold on the heads in the above photos. That was simply to see the placement/orientation of the spout so that I did not come too close to the intake. Obviously these photos show the location being too close, so I loosened up the screw and turned the spout clockwise so that is was between the distributor and the intake. I removed the intake and got back to the valley pan. If you will look at the above photos you can see more photos of the intake resting above the valley pan. This was to check for clearance and to check BOLT LENGTH! For instance, in the photos below certain holes on the head go right into the passage way of the push rods. I suggest you double check the length of your bolts so as not to be in harm's way. Obviously, you will need the valve covers off to verify this.
 
Be sure to check the front and the rear of the manifold. I like to do this check without the gaskets even, knowing that I will have a bit more clearance when the gaskets are placed between the heads and intake.
By the time you get done fooling around with all of this, you can probably go ahead and give a final torque on your valley pan. To be honest here, I really don't follow any specification, but I probe around the pan with my small screwdriver to see if the gasket is tight against the block/pan area. That really is the best way to check because you need to make sure your pan is sealed around the perimeter.

More later...






Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com