Okay, carb came back off and I put the setscrew back to where is was from the factory. The slot is now covered but the idle came down.



What I don't see happening is the opening of the vacuum secondaries at high throttle. While holding the throttle open I can open them by hand, but they are not opening when stabbing the throttle. Does it take a substantial amount of vacuum to open these? Should I not see them start to open under high throttle? Is this going to be another take the carb back off exercise?

pops (AKA) Clay

'56 Thunderbird

Clay - See if you can come by a longer screw to replace the secondary throttle stop. I usually use a long pan head screw chopped off to a "threaded rod" configuration. And then adjust it with needle nose pliers from below - so much for my hillbilly roots.... The coil is in the way if you use an Allen wrench. The main thing is to retain the ability to adjust idle speed while leaving the front butterfly in just the right spot.

Do you have a PCV system hooked up on the engine? Mine provided way too much air and drove the idle speed up - until I realized where the air was coming from and throttled it. I'm using the valve intended for the '64 292 truck and as far as I'm concerned - it's too much of a free opening. Mark used one from a newer smaller Ford and it seems to have done the trick. Anyway - you can quickly plug the PCV hose to the carb and check for this source of your extra idle air.

The 10°-12° advance initial idle position is OK - as long as you know she won't go over 36°-38° (vacuum advance disconnected) at full throttle.

You won't really be able to get the vacuum secondaries to show you much by blipping the throttle at a standstill. If - when driving - you floor it and there is a notable "kick" when it opens - its probably opening too early and will need a stiffer internal spring - another reason to visit Summit.....

This table helps sort them out as they come from the box.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

The secondaries will not open under idle conditions.Needs a big drop in engine vacuum such as when you floor it under load(driving).I used a PCV for a 78 Zephyr-Fairmont 4 cylinder.Smaller internal worked out good on my setup.

  

Verifying vacuum secondary operation on the vehicle can be checked by placing a paper clip on the vertical vacuum secondary diaphragm rod against the housing and then looking to see if the paper clip has moved to a lower position after a test run.

 

The vacuum secondary operation also can be bench tested with the carb off of the vehicle.  This is performed by opening up the primary throttle to full open and placing a high speed air nozzle at the ~Five O’Clock position in the right front venturi at its top.  If all is good, you’ll see the secondaries open and close as the air is moved over the hole that’s located just below the venturi opening at that point.  Here's a picture that will help clarify what's taking place in the bench test.

 

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Steve and all,



This must(?) be the PVC valve(?)







If so, yes, I have one.



I do not get any of the "WHhaaaa" when I floor the pedal. Only a non eventful build up in speed. It's down shifting though.



I will try Ted's paperclip suggestion. And oldcarmark's suggestion on the smaller PVC valve.



UPDATE one the home sale.



The New Jersey lender hired an appraiser to appraise our home. It appraised for more than the sale price. Two weeks after the appraisal and after I rented a garage and apartment, and committed to have the movers in this week, the New Jersey lender decides they don't like their own appraisers appraisal and commits to only 90 of the requested loan. The buyers have already bellied up with 20% down. They threw a big monkey wrench into our sale and move. Now the buyers have a new lender and we had another appraiser in this past Wednesday (coincidentally the same one that appraised our home two years ago when we refinanced) Then it appraised for 10% more than the current selling price so we will see what happens.



If anything good came from this, I do have a little more time to get my car ready for the trip.



I'm multitasking today. I don't want the movers to move my hard top. The hard top may, or may not have been from this car. I Know it has not been on since the car was restored. It had no hardware for the rear hold downs. I located all the hardware and this morning drug the top out of the garage, installed the hardware and tried out the top on the car. I'm told that although Ford did not install "factory" vinyl to these tops, the individual Ford dealers did. I am told this is how my top evolved. What do you guys think of the vinyl top? I sorta like it. If you don't go ahead and say so as I have thick skin.

pops (AKA) Clay

'56 Thunderbird

Yes that is a PCV in a common location.  I like your top!

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

Sorry to hear about the home apppraisal uproar - I'm sure you will be glad when the ordeal is concluded.

Personally, I like the tops plain - no portholes, no ornaments - block sanded, "faired" and painted body color or 70's Corvette "Arctic White". What I would like to warn - is to be darned sure it is all secure - SpeedPro56 has had the back window pop out of his (at speed) - and I found a picture on the internet one night of a scarred lid lying on the freeway in Salt Lake City.....arrrrgh! Explain that one to the insurance company.

The secondary operation you describe actually might indicate too much spring? In which case you might experiment with the next size down the list - or skip two - whatever seems appropriate. You just don't want it to have the infamous pause .."ka.....wow" as it opens. The pause is actually a slow down of the vehicle as torque is lost - and the kick is when it picks back up. The most rapid smooth change is good. Holley sells a "quick change" lid for the secondary housing that sllows future changes without the teardowns of the vacuum pot. I ususally use the electric chokes - and so I trim off the plastic brackets for the manual to clean the new lid up a bit.

The "shooter" for accelerator pump has a part in this as well ... the "list" that comes with the carb may say which size came with it? 

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

I think the top looks great. The question is do you like it? If so then its "perfect" for you!

I sold my sisters house in Atlantic Highlands this year. Took 2 years on the market and went for about $80,000 less than it should have. New Jersey counties just went through a reevaluation for taxes and changed a lot of appraisals. When all was said and done it was only about $10,000 under the NEW appraisal. I was sure glad when it was done. Had to deal with multiple offers, crooks and profiteers before we found the right buyer. Hope it all works out for you. Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Yep, real estate wise, it is ugly out there. I'm left holding my breath on this one.



Just got back from another 60 mile test run. Engine is shaking the car a little at 550-600 rpm idle, in gear. Smooths starts though and consistent cruise speeds. Still takes a little while to reach higher speeds like there is some lack of power. I'm not really complaining though as I think, from all your help, I'm getting close to having it right. No more working on it this week as I am packing for the early morning drive to Cleveland. Will be there for the week so the next opportunity to work on it will be next Saturday.



Summit has PVC valves right?

pops (AKA) Clay

'56 Thunderbird

For the PCV you want any auto parts store should have one.Summit might but they are more high performance than stock-but they might have one.One other thing that Steve suggested to me was raising the float level slightly.For some reason it affects idle quality.I turned mine up by 1/4 turn.Having the external float adjuster makes it easy try and see if it helps.5/8 wrench to crack the locknut loose.Turn the screw 1/4 turn CC and lock the nut back down while holding the screw.If it does not flood at idle leave it and see if it helps.I think it made a difference on mine.Also air temp seems to have a noticeable affect on the way it runs at idle.Hotter it is the worse it idles.