Clay-

Glad you got your "nags" worked out and I have to agree with the others, That is a great color combo and I really like it sans the kit.  Today they'd say "That is one sweet T Bird".  But back in my day we'd have said, "That T Bird is tuff!"

Missouri Mike

I'd rather be lucky than good.................

    but good ain't bad!!

OK! Nuff with the compliments.Pops-did you get the idle speed down and find the problem? Oh by the way I agree with everyone else-GREAT car! 

  

Not yet. My first opportunity to work on it will be tomorrow. I'm going to bring the initial advance down to ~12 from 16 and I'm going to take the carburetor back off to see if there is a hole, or threaded hole to adjust the secondaries. I also want to try Steve's suggestion of squirting propane around the base of the carb to see if the idle raises indicating a vacuum leak.



Speaking of vacuum:



I am noticing something seemingly unique to my car when comparing it cold to others. My upper radiator hose shrivels up when the car cools down as if there is a vacuum in the cooling system. Is this possible?

pops (AKA) Clay

'56 Thunderbird

I think you may have a bad rad cap.I think it should allow air in as the motor cools to prevent what is occurring with your rad hose.

  

When you have the carb off remember to set up the throttle plate position as indicated in Steve's diagram.You might want to make a note for yourself indicating throttle speed screw position once you have it set.You can turn it a little CC to slow idle speed if too high and turn it minimally CW to increase speed if required but as close to the preferred position either way is best.If you know how far to turn the screw once it contacts the throttle lever you can always start over if necessary without taking the carb back off(if you make a note for yourself).The transition slots in the carb allow more fuel to enter as you leave the idle position preventing "stumble" as the intermediate carb circuit activates.If the plate is open too far at idle excess fuel enters from the transition slots and you can never set the mixture screws properly.Before you take the carb off I would look for a vacuum leak.Carb cleaner sprayed around the carb and manifold can also be used as engine speed picks up as the fluid is drawn into a leaky area.Also check the carb mounting surface on the manifold for flatness.Let us know what you find.I do believe you have a small leak somewhere.With the carb speed screw backed out the throttle plate is closed.Motor should quit unless air is entering somwhere else.

  

Okay..... The grass is mowed and I'm back on to the important stuff.



Warmed up the car



Got out the propane torch





With the car at idle, I went around the base of the carb with the hand held torch wide open.





Did not notice any difference in the idle speed.



Next step was to set the initial timing advance to 12 instead of 16.



This dropped the idle speed, but I sense a little wrapping out of the exhaust. Still I left it at twelve degrees advanced.



Next, I again took off the carb. Here is the slot on the primaries.







Here is the "no slot showing" on the secondaries.







This next photo has me saying 100 times:



Never doubt Steve.

Never doubt Steve.

Never doubt Steve.

Never doubt Steve.

Never doubt Steve. X 20





I knew I would make matters worse, but I went ahead and adjusted the set screw so only a square was showing on the secondaries. Now I'm back up to about 1,000rpm as a minimum setting with the throttle screw just off of the carb linkage.



Should I go back to no slot showing on the secondaries???

pops (AKA) Clay

'56 Thunderbird

Dumb question. I deleted it.

pops (AKA) Clay

'56 Thunderbird

Back it down.The secondary can be adjusted with it running if you can get something in there to turn it or take it out and get a longer machine same thread that you can adjust running.It does not need much and the slot in the secondary can be ignored.All you are trying to do is let a liitle more air in.Looks like your primary is about right.All you want to see is a square below the plate.Did you set it there as it is now or is that how it was when you took the carb off?If you have the primary set there and the timing set back a little to 12-if it idles too slow thats when you would open up the secondary a little to bring idle up to where you want it.It wont take much to bring idle up as you found out when you put it back on this time.

  

They didn't put the secondary screw or the high idle screw in a very accessible place did they?



As soon as it cools down, the carb will come back off and I will put the secondary throttle plate back to where it was. I think once I have done that I'll be pretty close. If I have an allen head set screw to replace the slotted one, I might try it with a sawed off allen wrench for future tuning.



Thanks for the continued support.

pops (AKA) Clay

'56 Thunderbird

If you are talking about the fast idle screw if you rotate the throttle to full open by hand the fast idle screw is accessible in that position.Not sure what the head is on yours but mine takes a 1/4 inch mini wrench.Trial and error getting the speed where you are happy with it.