If any one would like to read acouple of intro pages on lab and wear tests send me your email and i will send some intro info that will wet your interest. ct1940@shaw.ca att cliff

The high end amount of zinc in the oil for a daily driver is around 1350 ppm. Running much more than this for extended periods of time contributes to what is called ‘zinc overloading’ which then leads to pitting of the camshaft lobes.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Ceck this sight Speed talk. diesel lube oil wear test results.this test includes gas engine oils.some quotes 5-20castrol gtx conventional
95543psi thresh hold
castrol edge titaniam 95717 5W30
818 ppmzink
phos 883ppm
moley 90ppm
titanium44ppm
thay also saymodern low zink oilsCAN BE USED SAFELY WITHFLAT TAPPETCAMS,EVEN WITH ENGINES WITH RADICAL CAMS AND SPRING PRESSURE. THER IS SOME 30 PAGES OF TESTS OF ALL OILS AVAIL IN THE US. THOSE WITH HIGH OILPRESURE,100PSI WOULD BE WISE TO CONSIDER5W30. IN TODAYS OILS THER IS NO NEED FOR HIGH OIL PRESSURE.1 COLD MORNIG YOU WILLBLOW THE SEAL ON MOST SPINONS,AS WELL AS THE GASKET ON THE ADAPTOR FOR THE SPIN ON

I don't have a number. If anyone here knows, it's Ted. As a general rule, any dual viscosity 40 or higher (10w40, 20w50, etc) and any single viscosity is already sufficient. I wouldn't add anything to it. If you use a dual viscosity 30 and lower (10w30, 5w20, etc) you will need an additive. If there is ever any doubt about an oil, ask the manufacturer which of their oils they recommend for a flat tappet engine.


Lawrenceville, GA

What would you consider as too much?

I wouldn't run break in oil all the time. Too much zddp is about as bad as too little. A normal single viscosity like 30w should have just what you need.


Lawrenceville, GA

Being that on oil too. How about running 30w break in oil 100% of the time? Enough zinc? I only really have 4-5 months of drive time here in MN

1957 Fairlane

The mileage you are mentioning is more what I would expect out of a vehicle. I might be getting a skewed view of things, as when I'm over there looking for transport it is in the lower price brackets as I'm not looking to tie up too much money in a temporary vehicle. Possibly a lot of those vehicles don't get the oil checked until the light comes on. If I see engine rebuilt in the add I instantly think it hasn't been looked after or it has been worked very hard.


These days it is a different story, there are good light weight oils as well that need to cater for more modern engines that can't handle the heavy weights but you wont see a junk oil with a wide viscosity range like 5w-50 or 10w-60


Last time I was there in 2010 I got an 1994 Suburban (well maintained but the paint was a bit cooked) and a travel trailer to tour around with. I ran Mobile-1 10w 40 in that and did the oil changes every 3000 miles. I ran Mobile-1 as it is an available brand I knew (normally available as 5w-30 or 5w-50 here) and is considered quite a good oil but expensive here. I brought a couple containers back as it was a fraction of the price of the Mobile-1 oils we have here and ran it in my wife's car. I was a bit disappointed with it, the oil level dropped quickly and didn't compare to the Mobile-1 here. I think I'll have to look into it a bit more for next year when we're over.

Interesting, Good oils come in most weights here and the same for Junk oils with the biggest problem is knowing who is telling the truth on Quality. Most vehicles in the States did not see that 100,000 mark with out repair as the average person back in the day changed their spark plugs as often as their socks, but only looked at the ignition when it ran really bad or not at all and usually were dumping gas thru the motors washing everything out, and an oil change was a once a year thing just before the vacation trip. Todays cars with all the electronics and fuel injection can see between 200K and 300K with out too much trouble, my 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan turned 285K last week however I change the oil & filter every 3000 mi. Also back in the day you could always buy a rust bucket in the Mid-west with 70 to 80K on it and a cream puff from the South West with equal or more miles and a bad motor and with a swap come out with a pretty decent car. Now and then you could find something that the owner was smart enough and well off enough to have taken care of it and got a good ride with higher miles but that was not all that often. Thanks for the reply, my youngest Son has been to your Country and really likes it a lot.

What?

I can see where you are coming from with the rod bearings going under racing conditions. I do believe the Y pushes a lot of oil up the top end and with the high revs and thicker oil they were probably getting oil starvation as it couldn't get back down quick enough. I guess that's why 427FE's didn't even have hydraulic lifters to save as much oil for the bottom end as possible.
Since this topic came up I've asked some of the older Y guys what they ran in the early years as mono grades were before my time. 30w and 40w was what was used here as there was no need for anything lighter with our climate. We would have to drive 2500 miles to see below freezing weather here, and that's only in winter. I know in the US even in the warmer spots it is not much of a drive to see below freezing and oil that can cope with that is needed. For many years the standard oil viscosity here was 20w-50, there was thinner oils but they were usually the cheap junk brands. We're spoilt for choice to suit the application now, even better than you have from what I've seen. The narrow viscosity oils here are still mostly the cheaper end low quality oil.
I think a lot of it comes down what your maximum engine revs are going to be as well, the higher the revs the thinner the oil to counter drain back issues. My car is stock and wouldn't see anything past about 4500rpm on the rare occasion for a short period of time and a lot of the guys with the Y's I think do a lot less than that and would gain from the broader viscosity range.
I do often see adds for vehicles in the US saying "engine rebuilt at 100000 miles" or less in a lot of cases and wonder why it should need it as I would expect double the mileage from the same vehicle before thinking about a rebuild. That is the sort of thing that you don't usually see here, we traditionally get good mileage out of our motors in most cases. Maybe it is just lack of servicing in those.