More like questions. Okay, I have a 292 from 1959. It has the original road draft tube installed into the valley cover, original 2100 two barrel carburetor from 59, and not many modifications. Here are a few photos:







Now, from what I understand, the pcv valve needs to go into the valley cover where the road draft goes into and somehow hook into the carb. What would I need to buy / modify to accept a pcv system? And does that small oval cover plate near the oil pan and fuel pump do anything?

The oval cover plate is where the earlier road draught tube and filter bolted on.

There are a hundred posts on here re. pcv valve..

Go to 'search' next to 'home' at top right of page, click and select 'advanced search'
put in - pcv valve - then select 'using all keywords'.

26 pages of hits, hope you have some time on your hands




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South Australia

As slick56 mentions, the search function will bring up quite a bit on PCV valve installations. Here are a few links to get you started. The search function will bring up more.

Blocking off the road draft tube

Crankcase evacuation

Finned valley pan and PCV valve installation

Installation of PCV valve into the top of the block

Installation of PCV valve at top and rear of block 2

Modifying valve covers for PCV valve installation

Valley pan PCV valve installation

Valve cover baffle for PCV valve

Why a PCV valve system?

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And here are pictures of a couple of pcv valve installations that were performed recently. This is reasonably cut and dried if you’re already using the valley cover that accommodates the rear road draft tube. Simply knock down the stud boss in the center of the hole and install the appropriate sized rubber grommet. The PCV valves I’ve been using lately for the Y conversions are the Microgard PCV-202 or Fram FV197. The hose for the valve simply hooks to the back of the carb or to a port in a spacer under the carb.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

If you don't have a place to hook it up to at the carb or spacer you can drill and tap for a fitting under the car in the maniifold.Do not hook it up at the back of the intake just because there is a vacuum fitting there.You will lean out the back cylinders.Needs to be as close to centre as possible.Makes a big difference as far as fumes(gassy smell) in the garage when the car sits for awhile and its much cleaner than the fumes just escaping to the air.

  

Is the port in front of the carb that the vacuum wipers connect to a usable port?

  

What's confuses the matter is the Microgard PCV-202 that Ted suggests is list for any from a 302 Ford all the way up to a 460 and everything in between...

"The Master Cylinder"

Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL

What's confuses the matter is the Microgard PCV-202 that Ted suggests is list for any from a 302 Ford all the way up to a 460 and everything in between... [/quote]

Like I said its trial and error.What works on one engine may not work on another.Like everything else fuel related there are variables like camshaft,timing,etc.I found with my stock engine the 302 valve flowed too much air.The idle was terrible.The 4 cylinder one has a smaller size passageway.You can also restrict the airflow as I mentioned if its too lean.The PCV valve is just a flow control depending on vacuum and internal size.

  

Awesome guys, this helps me a lot. And thanks for all of the links for me to read up on. I wonder if there is any type of adapter I can install into the road draft hole that allows me to mount the pcv valve without modifying the current mounting surface. Maybe I could get a junk road draft tube support (The part that screws into the valley cover) and weld some pipe to the opening and drill and tap that instead. Sound reasonable?

Yes,that would work.For the proper PCV valve,go to a parts store and get a valve for a 64 F-100 truck with a 292 engine.I know NAPA has them and probably most other stores do also.That port in front of your carb is just about where the original on the 64 pickup was mounted.

 

Paul,

Boonville,MO