I have been doing some research on Y-blocks but engine work scares me. I would like to have my motor somewhere around 300 HP and be able to drive it on the street but also be able to hot rod it a bit. I have a 64 F100 short box with a t-98 4 speed.

Here's what I am starting with. The 292 C2AE motor was overhauled in 2006 and bored .030 over. The build invoice says; cam 010 + 010, heads rebuilt C1TE, surface block and heads, and new pistons and rods. There is no info on part numbers for the internals. It currently has a 2 bbl carb on it. There has only been about 3,000 mi put on the motor since the rebuild so I think I only need bolt ons.

I am planning on putting a t5 in it and I have a ECZ 9425 B intake. I know that these two upgrades will improve it quite a bit but the power band is so low from about idle to ~3,000 rpm. I do not have a 4 bbl carb yet.

Any suggestions will be very helpful.

1964 F100 292 T-98

Western ND

dual exhaust??

stuey

UK

Normal upgrades besides adding dual exhausts would include the larger valved heads (either G’s or 113’s) with some mild port work, a larger camshaft, and the 1.54:1 rockers. Some port work to the intake manifold itself will also net some additional top end HP as well as adding a spacer under the carb. Maximizing the compression ratio also helps quite a bit but if not going back into the short block, at least measure the piston to deck clearance so that the final compression ratio can be calculated which may give you a better idea on how much head milling you can get away with. Also degree in the camshaft rather than simply ‘just’ installing it as this will insure that the various manufacturing variances don’t add up to move the camshaft too far from its ideal running position.

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Here’s the link to the exhaust tests thread which gives an idea just how much HP is gained in adding dual exhausts in the event you haven’t done that yet. Adding Rams Horn exhaust manifolds was a 44 HP gain over the single exhaust system in the following test.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic55379.aspx

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I have dual exhaust. I have 1 Ram's horn and the stock passenger side with a block off plate. I may be closer than I thought already. If I have to tear open the motor I would like to do it at the same time as the tranny install. Any idea on how much HP can be gained from switching from the stock 2 bbl to a ECZ 9425 B 4 bbl? I am thinking about a 600 cfm Holley 4160.

On another note. I am working on putting a fuel tank under the bed. Will I need to add a fuel pump to keep the motor happy? I am still running the old setup right now with the mechanical on the motor.

Thanks for the exhaust info Ted

1964 F100 292 T-98

Western ND

Certainly port out the B manifold and match to a set of G heads. Porting the G's is a benefit. Opinions may differ but I think with ported G heads bigger exhaust valves (1.60") will help also. Again opinions may differ but milling G heads .060" is about as far as you should go without posting them. If you mill .060 you will also need to mill the manifold flanges.

If the ex manifold with the plate is '56 or earlier a late model pass car manifold will help some.

Another big help will be a cam but that is also the biggest pain in the backside since new lifters will be needed also. These can be put in without taking the engine out, but life is much easier if the engine is upside down! Talk to a cam vendor or two to get specific recommendations for your truck and how you intend to drive it, there are many vendors out there besides Isky. It will help if you get the lifters and cam from the same vendor if a lifter goes bad and takes the cam out.

Others will have more advice, spending other people's money is always fun.

Doug T

The Highlands, Louisville, Ky.

I am going to start by putting the 4 bbl intake and probably a Holley 4160 1848-1 carb on it. It looks like it did pretty well in the carb testing that Ted did with the intake that I am going to put in. I will mostly be driving around town or cruising down the highway. I will get the T5 installed and going before I start messing too much with the motor. I am going to be converting the points to a pertronix II also. I will see what happens from there. With the tranny conversion and upgrades to the motor I pretty much will be out of money for this go around.

1964 F100 292 T-98

Western ND

Don't get your hopes too high with the B manifold and Autolite 4 barrel if you keep the small valve, low compression C1TE heads. You need the G heads to realize the advantage of the 4 barrel.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Doug T. Note re your suggestions to mill non posted "G" heads 0.060". Ted E. definately does not recommend milling early non posted "G" heads more than 0.025" ..

Paul

Get ahold of John Mummert and check out his web site best help I had not to throw your money away lots of simple things to do and get more HP

Increased Compression and breathing are the biggies. Ted Eaton and John Mummert are great and gracious resources, just ask them. http://www.ford-y-block.com/

Big valve heads, Blue Thunder or Mummert intake, headers and 2 1/4" or larger pipes do a lot. Take advantage of Ted's offer to calculate compression ratio and recommend max milling on unposted G heads. We got the CR too high on my 317 using unposted Gs and had to acquire some 113s. IIRC correctly I'm now running 9.3/1 CR.

The T5 is agreat addition, I used Mummert's adapter on my Vicky hooked to 3.73 rear teeth.

I like the Crane electronic ignition over the Pertronics offering.

The Clay Smith 284 lumpy stick is another worthwhile addition (Mummert calls this his "Cruise Nite Special"). Along with the cam and 1.54 rockers and higher revs, stiffer valve springs will be a big help.

You gotta have the right tools and know how to use 'em.

TC - Austin, Texas