It's often been recommended on this site to port heads, say a set of ECZ - Gs. A note of caution, confirmed somewhat by recent testing of Y-Block heads by our moderator Ted Eaton's shop. Several of the heads used in the tests had been ported at some point. Results varied greatly!  According to a John Mummert (J. Mummert Machine, CA) . article from some years back, in Y- Block magazine, who ported & flow tested Y- Block heads extensively in the past, they need a very knowledgable approach or the results can vary greatly.. So, if you don't have decent equipment & a fair knowledge of porting principals, it might be best to leave them stock or farm the job out to someone that does & preferably has worked with Y heads.. Simply getting into them & hogging the ports out bigger, does not work on those heads & can result in very poor results!.  (that includes hitting a water jacket)    


Paul

A little update since I last posted.  Installed the T-5 and absolutely love driving it.  I upgraded to the B manifold and the 1848 4 bbl carb which improved everything quite a bit.  The Pertronix upgrade seemed to help too.  The truck is in the shop now to get an industrial chassis Dakota ifs, a rear 4 link, and the other ram horn installed.  Since the motor will be out I am contemplating a cam swap and possible head upgrade.  A set of 113 heads were sourced but they need to be tested and machined if good.  They look to be untouched at this point and are bare.  The only thing holding me back right now is the $$ with the other upgrades.

1964 F100 292 T-98

Western ND

I have a the stock distributor for my truck. Will I be able to utilize it with the 4bbl? I finally sourced my 3 speed bell and will get it modified.

1964 F100 292 T-98

Western ND

It seems a choice to change the rear end gear ratio to a lower number or put in a different transmission with overdrive. I personally lean towards the transmission swap. There is a wealth of information on this forum for installing 4 or 5 speed transmissions. This would get your RPM down but still leave the low range for quick starts. Chuck


Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Unfortunately I am still sitting with the parts I listed new in the box.  The Holley 465 cfm carb, 4 bbl intake, Pertronix, and T-5 are sitting in the bed of my truck.  It has been so busy that I haven't had a chance to install anything.  I am still unable to locate a truck 3 speed bell housing to get modified to adapt the T-5.  I have all of the other parts from Mummert for the swap and will need to shorten the drive shaft.  I am kind of rethinking everything at this point.  Now I might splurge for the high rise 4 bbl intake from Mummert, a different Cam from Mummert 270 or 280, and maybe some different heads.  I would like something with some power when I romp on it on the street but can cruise down the highway.  I already have the ram's horn manifolds.  I am not planning on pulling anything with my truck.  My truck does get hot if you try to run around 65 mph for a decent amount of time.  4.11 rear with the 1:1 4th gear currently.  Any suggestions on what route I should go?

1964 F100 292 T-98

Western ND

If your not planning on taking the short block apart, which is understandible if it's already been redone, the stock replacement cam will limit you somewhat. However, better heads would be a good move & the "B" intake with some mild port work on both, if you can. As suggested #113 or "G" heads being your best option, preferably with some moderate milling for compression. The 600 carb will be plenty or even a 1.08 Autolite or 450 Holley would likely work well with good throttle response.

Paul

Interesting that in Teds test, the COAE heads with larger valves were down 10HP over stock ones.


South Australia

this may be of interest
http://yblockguy.com/techtips/cylinder_head_mods.html
J Mummert has valves
stuey

Increased Compression and breathing are the biggies. Ted Eaton and John Mummert are great and gracious resources, just ask them. http://www.ford-y-block.com/

Big valve heads, Blue Thunder or Mummert intake, headers and 2 1/4" or larger pipes do a lot. Take advantage of Ted's offer to calculate compression ratio and recommend max milling on unposted G heads. We got the CR too high on my 317 using unposted Gs and had to acquire some 113s. IIRC correctly I'm now running 9.3/1 CR.

The T5 is agreat addition, I used Mummert's adapter on my Vicky hooked to 3.73 rear teeth.

I like the Crane electronic ignition over the Pertronics offering.

The Clay Smith 284 lumpy stick is another worthwhile addition (Mummert calls this his "Cruise Nite Special"). Along with the cam and 1.54 rockers and higher revs, stiffer valve springs will be a big help.

You gotta have the right tools and know how to use 'em.

TC - Austin, Texas

Get ahold of John Mummert and check out his web site best help I had not to throw your money away lots of simple things to do and get more HP