Slick, I like the idea of using a relay to provide more power (and to reduce the "flow" thru the switch). I have a relay on my electric fan, fuel pump, lights and power windows.

I think that would have been an excellent solution to Meandean's problem.

"The Master Cylinder"

Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL

No, I wasn't sure how to wire it up or what relay to use. Like I said, I'm not too confident on electrical items. Decided to go back to points.

Thanks for the advise, none-the-less!

Did you end up trying the relay?



South Australia

I have a 6 volt system so it has NO ballast resister. I bought the 0.6 Ohm ignitor coil recommended by Pertronix. No dice.

I have received this from the Sales Manager at PerTronix...

We have very specific information regarding 6-volt applications. Typically we find that most people don't use the proper coil and or do not remove the ballast resistor (sometime both). A coil with too much internal resistance or a ballast resistor will limit the amount of energy to the point where the Ignitor will not work. For instance, a 12-volt 8-cylinder system typically uses a 1.5-ohm coil. A 6-volt system uses a 0.6-ohm coil. Half the energy requires half (or less) the resistance. This allows more energy to reach the Ignitor module therefore it works. Here is the chart concerning this:






Hope this helps...


South Australia

I have two friends who have tried those 6V Neg. ground Pertronics units on their cars......neither one would start the engine reliably. They took them out and put the points back in, no problems. There's nothing wrong with points system. Just set the gap correctly and change 'em once in a while! (You know that if the spark is too weak to start an engine, the spark is just plain too weak all the time.) I hate to tell you that those 6V Pertronics units are just plain JUNK.

"FREE SAMPLE"

Not a specific one, but perhaps a generic horn or starter relay from an auto parts store?[/quote]

I can get another 6V unit (horn) - one that fits the 55. That should work

That sounds promising. Forgive my ignorance, but can you recommend a specific relay?[/quote]


Not a specific one, but perhaps a generic horn or starter relay from an auto parts store?


South Australia

I can't tell you the equivalent 6v item but I usually rig my systems to use a "Bosch" 12v lighting relay. Power to its coil then switches an input power source to two outputs capable of heavy amperage (like off-road lights). The relay is "normally open" on both output legs. I send one to the controller - and one to the coil - powered off the battery post of the starter solenoid and triggering off the ignition switch. These relays are available with a fixed base (to be hard wired) and a removable relay that can be pulled to disable the circuitry.

GM vehicles that use a variable dwell controller and a low OHM coil usually have a heavy number 10 gauge wire to the coil built into the factory wiring. The use of something smaller - or the original 50's Ford car wiring, just can't be recommended for that sort of a heat load. The low OHM coils offer a performance boost - but they need the proper feed wiring to function well - and safely.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

I didn't try the old coil yet. I got it installed but then wasn't 100% sure which way to wire it to the Pertronix and didn't want to risk blowing it out. If I do it, I'll call their tech and make sure it can handle a backwards hookup. I found how to test polarity of the coil using a voltmeter across a spark plug connector and the intake manifold to determine correct polarity. I would like to run that test if I do hook up the old coil. It has the batt and dist markings on the coil and since the car was converted to negative ground it PROBABLY needs to be hooked up backwards from factory. But I still want to check - and that requires cranking the engine with the coil installed, which means current to the Pertronix, and like I said, I need to check with them before I do that...

I did notice while disconnecting the coil that the red wire coming off the bundle along the firewall was pretty flimsy at the point it goes into the connector for the coil. I hate, hate, hate messing with factory anything since it's been there for 57 years. But I did. I cut the end off - there really wasn't much holding it. Stripped back the wire carefully to retain all the copper strands and crimped a new connector on.

Tried it again and no difference. Where does that wire terminate? I'm guessing the ignition switch.

I will also remove and clean the engine to firewall ground. Can't hurt, I suppose.