A little more work on modifying the coupe dash for a boost pressure gage. I removed the stock radio delete plate and the ashtray (I just throw my butts out the window...just kidding). Removed the division bar between the two and made a paper template. Then used a plasma cutter to get the rough shape for the filler plate and took some time to get the final shape correct. Welded the plate in, ground it down and leveled everything out. I'll be using a 6 gage set to finish it off.

 

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

Good to see ;you back on the coupe, you can always use those vapor cigarette, no ash, unless you smoke those funny "roll your owns" now that you are in callie.

Gary Ryan San Antonio.TX.

Back in '74 I bought 5 '36 Fords out of a junkyard up in Hurley Wisconsin for $20 each.  There was a '37 coupe same as yours sitting there, also for 20 bucks, all complete and not much rust.  I failed to tell the guy, the next week I came back to find it gone, sold.  BIG mistake.  I did however build up an original '36 tudor, it's all original, 6 volt, has a nice radio, it's like new.  I do all work, wife does the upholstery.  I painted it Gun Metal Gray, the original color.  It has the 221 flathead but I did mill the heads .068 (flat pistons) so it has plenty of pep and speed.  Buying all those '36's really paid off, I sold several thousand dollars'worth of parts on eBay, more than paid for the entire restoration of the '36.  We've had it on long trips, it runs like a clock, turns heads everywhere we go.  My advice:  Keep this car looking as original because no one including me is going to upstage the talent of Edsel Ford, he knew what a car should look like, his '34 Ford it still voted the best looking American production automobile ever ... and it is.   The '36 and '7 are not far behind so keep it straight.  Note I have original wheels, hubcaps, bumpers, everything perfect.


82warren, in MN
 

beautiful car, my first was a 36 5 window coupe, rumble seat, put a 53 merc, every thing else kept stock even the mechanical brakes drove all over the west pa roads..Oh yea found out the rims from a VW will fit...

Brother and I own/operate 1957 Ford Fairlane 312/4x2 and two 1963 Falcons 302 rollers carburated 600cfm, FE427 sitting in shed..

82Warren;

You do have a nice looking stock 36. My intention with my 37 is to keep the body looking as original as possible with all original sheet metal, door handles, crank out windshield, tail lights and bumpers, but that is where the "stock" attributes stop. My build is a street rod and it's far too late to go back. I love flatheads, but my choice was to build a stroked and blown Y-Block for the 37 which I did. Everyone has their own personal preference when it comes to builds. This site is primarily about Y-Blocks which is why I started the thread on the build in the first place. I'll be posting more pictures soon.

Rono

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

Sounds like a plan to me.   Yea, my '36 has mechanical brakes but ....  I used '54 Ford 'floaters', made sliding sleeves welded to the backing plate, they now set up with the star wheel same as a '54 and float free, center perfectly and my brakes are super good, just as good as any hydraulic ... actually more like power brakes because this free-floating feature gives them self-induction braking, same as much newer cars.
Warren

So here is the update on the coupe. I finished the new blower mock-up in the car today. What I really needed to see was if I had enough clearance between the blower pulleys and a new radiator with twin 10" puller fans. It's going to be too close for comfort, so I think I'll go with one 14" fan with the center of the fan motor in the middle of the radiator. That should clear the top and bottom pulley okay.

Next step will be to pull the motor (again) and continue on the body....still needs a lot more work but I think I'm making progress!

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

I've used a pair of two groove scrub blower mount accessory pulleys. One is about 6.9" and the other is about 7.1". The two belt system is working fine so far. Put a pair of matched V-belts on and no problems. I modified a 2V alternator pulley with a bearing to fit the idler. This gave me plenty of room to the radiator but I am running a pusher electric fan.
"


Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Jeez Rono, ya think?!? Progress?!? It's gonna be BEAUTIFUL!! Great job! That engine is one fine jewel in a mighty fine box my friend.

Rowen
55CV
Woodland, Ca

Thanks Rowen! When I look back at the beginning of this thread and see that I started on this 5 years ago. I get a little discouraged. But the reality is moving twice in the last 5 years really causes you to loose traction on a project. Moving days are DONE and I can stay focused now.

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID