I've read your excellent posts on timing... that's why I mentioned it in my OP: "My engine is a fresh 292 (2Kmi), decked block, 113 heads milled for 9:1 SCR, Mummert 265 cam, Mallory unilite (mechanical only), 12 deg. BTDC @ idle. Runs very strong." Yes, no vacuum advance. 12 deg. is about as far as I want to push it.

At this point, I'm going to flush the coolant, open the thermostat housing, and drill a new hole in the manifold for the mechanical temp sender. I'll also put an orifice in the bypass line while I have things apart.. I plan on refilling with distilled water & DEI Radiator Relief. I may invest in an electric pusher fan... this seems like an inexpensive way to increase cooling, but requires half a day to R&R the grille... plus relay & wiring.

I'm not convinced that a new radiator would do any good. The block, heads and radiator were clean 9 months/2000 miles ago, and I have no reason to think they aren't clean now.

to back up what Steve said on the initial, I run 15 on my F code. Remember it has a lower static comp ratio than the 'Bird, but I had to really back off the idle when I went from factory setting. My pass car will idle all day in 90 degree humid Indiana summer days.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Here’s a picture of the type of spacer I use to restore the belt alignment when removing the 1” water pump spacer on the T-Bird engines. This spacer simply sandwiches between the water pump and the front pulley to make up for the 1” that the water pump moves rearward.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I too second what Steve has said about adding the restriction in the bypass tube. I also installed the CASCO improved water pump that was mentioned earlier as I had the same issues with my bird that you mention. No issues since I did both these modifications..

Good luck!

Brian - 56 T-Bird

Woodinville WA

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

You may want to look at brewing up in a different way. There is a lifetime coolant that uses no water and boils at 375 degrees. it is polypropylene glycol plus additives and goes by the name of Evans Waterless Coolant. It's not inexpensive but you only need to buy one filling.

Jay Leno uses it in all his liquid cooled cars and devotes two webisodes to this remarkable product.

Here's an update... just took the t-bird on her first parade (details on my blog). Local temp 82°. Flushed the coolant system, replaced the thermostat with a new Mr. Gasket #4367. Made double sure that I put it in the right direction! Installed a 3/16 orifice in the bypass line. Filled with distilled water and Radiator Relief. Installed electric pusher fan. Here's a pic of the mechanical temp gauge at its highest:


That knob between the gauges is a pull switch for the electric fan.

Thanks for all the advice! I now have confidence to drive the t-bird in traffic on hot days.

Do the Tbirds have a shroud for the fan??



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

Yes, they all had shrouds from the factory. I think it is Ford Engineering's response to Design's need for an undersized radiator. The small radiator, combined with the small engine compartment, make little birds very hot-running in slow traffic.

It would have been good if the ornamental fender "hashmarks" were instead real fender vents! Tom Maruska made them functional in his pro-touring resto-rod, but that was a pretty involved mod!

By the way, 6 early birds joined the parade from my club. None boiled over, but two pegged their temp gauges and had to pull over and cool off after the parade. My car didn't need that!

Rob - The birds have half a shroud, top half of the radiator only - the bottom is open. so it doesn't perform as you would expect a shroud to behave. There are outfits that sell a bottom half to add-on and complete the cover, but I haven't tried one to report the difference in cooling performance.

Skygazer - Does your system give a stable temp without the aux. fan? If so, how high over ambient does it get?

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona