And the generator/alternator bracket will have to be massaged. The infamous "t-bird waterpump backing plate" that CASCO debunked was supposed to do the same thing as taking the spacer out. Taking out the spacer is probably a better approach, but has lots of other implications as you mention.

CASCO's test, at least from a water flow perspective, indicates the best answer is to rev the motor a little. I'll have to do my own testing on the next hot day. I'd like to get this resolved before I drive the bird in a parade!

Wikipedia: "Pure ethylene glycol has a specific heat capacity about one half that of water. So, while providing freeze protection and an increased boiling point, ethylene glycol lowers the specific heat capacity of water mixtures relative to pure water. A 50/50 mix by mass has a specific heat capacity of about 3140 J/Kg C (0.75 BTU/lb F) three quarters that of pure water, thus requiring increased flow rates in same system comparisons with water."

For whatever that's worth. Seems that folks are having good luck with 50/50 mix in their t-birds.

Oh, and I've also read that the thermal conductivity of copper is better than that of aluminum. From what I can tell, the reason to use an aluminum radiator is because the metal is slightly stronger, and allows "larger" tubes that are longer in cross section, thus providing more surface area. I have a clean, stock copper radiator.

While speaking of radiators, remember that paint is an insulator. Heavy coats of paint on the fins look nice, but greatly reduces heat conductivity. My friend who had a radiator shop many years ago used a very thin coat of flat black paint of some kind on his repair jobs.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

I suspect you'll find the advantage of aluminum is more based on cost and weight than strength. There are so many varieties of aluminum alloy that a generality about strength is not accurate.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

[quote][b]skygazer (4/7/2013)
I have avoided ethylene glycol because I've read that pure water actually removes heat better per unit volume (higher specific heat) than anti-freeze, even though it boils at a lower temperature.



Redline 'WaterWetter' is another choice. It lubes the pump, provides corrosion protection, and changes the surface tension reducing steam pockets. Something to consider if you want to run straight water, especially if you get dieseling when the motor is hot, but not boiling. They claim a 20-30 degree reduction in coolant temp.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

I have a spray can of special black radiator paint (from Eastwood) that I had planned to use on the alum. rad. I bought, but then soon realized that the fins actually LOOK black unless viewed straight on. So, I plan to only paint the top tank & sides (in order to maintain an OEM look), but realize now I should likely use a (high-temp?) gloss black enamel instead of the thin/flat specialty paint. The better durability/appearance would likely overshadow any negative insulating factor concerning the tank, etc. alone, when using a modern upgraded aluminum radiator, especially since the motor is not really full bore modified?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

FYI: For what it's worth, I switched to propylene after a stuck thermostat caused a similar (to skygazer's) incident when I was in an expressway traffic jamb. Though I never boiled over (running the heater/revving the motor), the end result was a leaky headgasket (orig. OEM steel). While propylene is not quite as efficient a coolant as ethylene, it DOES offer the benefit of a self-sealing effect, and won't ruin your bearings if it gets into the crankcase. The manufacturer recommends a 70% solution for most efficient cooling. I have been running it for years now with no coolant pressure (thus no more leaking) and no overheating.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

True enough. I will note that US Radiator uses 1/2" tubes on their copper cores, and 1" tubes on their aluminum cores. For higher efficiency on their copper radiators, they simply cram more tubes into the core.

Greenbirds suggestion to me on a plug in the bypass line solved the heat problem in my 56 Vic. I drilled a 1/8" hole in the plug and the Mopar high flow thermostat (160 for me). After the installation I check the temp with a heat gun and find 165 at the neck and 145 at the low hose. The factory temp gauge moves quite a bit as the thermo works but knowing the real temps now doesn't bother me. Funny when our family ownd a new 56 for 6 years I never remember seeing the guage go past half way or move much at all.

He also gave me one other suggestion if I have any more trouble in "cruise" type situations and that would be to put a smaller upper water pump pully on. I looked it all up to put on a Mustang pulley with some spacers behind it for alignment but didn't need to do it.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

The birds use both the 2/3 -3/4 size radiator and the efficiency reducing front spacer - makes them a bit different than the sedan versions. So a bit more touchy about cooling system components........ Most guys I know with stock birds have a story or two to tell about overheating issues - easy to get things out of whack.

Skygazer what is your spark advance at idle? My outfit runs 10° initial and due to the use of live manifold vacuum on the vac advance - an additional 7° comes in for a total of 17°. This will drive the hot idle temperature downward. The Y block engine likes this high initial - and when people use a full mechanical system - or a ported vacuum system - they usually end up with a considerable initial built into their advance curve. See if your engine responds well to bit more advance at idle - just do a test and don't rev the rascal too high while you check it out. A "re-curve" might just be some of the answer....

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona