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Opinions on best ZDDP additive

Posted By 58rancho 12 Years Ago
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Craig Seyfried
Posted 12 Years Ago
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I have been using Joe Gibbs Hot Rod Conventional 10-30 Motor oil for about 3 years. It has the proper amount of zinc for flat tappet camshafts and lifters and it has anti-corosion additives for vehicles that are in storage for extended periods of time. I believe that this oil coats all the internal parts of the engine and you never have a dry start up after extended periods of storage. My 56 Customline has about 45,000 original miles on the 272 and runs great and uses no oil. I do change the oil about every year and that oil has about 1,000 per year on it. My other Ford a 1960 Fairlane 500 has a 427 side oiler engine and I drag race it at Bandimere Speedway. Leonard Vahsholtz and I built the engine, and I run Joe Gibbs full synthetic oil 10-30. I used to run Brad Penn oil and after running the J.G. oil the oil pressure increased 5 lbs. The J.G. oil is pricey but how much does it cost to replace the cam and lifters?

                                                                                                                                      Sheriff of Mayberry, Craig Seyfried

DANIEL TINDER
Posted 12 Years Ago
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I still have a large stock of Rotella obtained before they reduced the zinc level. Will stick to my plan of alternating with low detergent racing oil.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
Ted
Posted 12 Years Ago
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Jim.  Thanks for posting that link.  It’s a good rebuttal to the prior link and as such, gives a different view of what’s required in the testing of the oils and additives for engines in general.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


Hutz 292
Posted 12 Years Ago
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I have been using Joe Gibbs racing oil in my Y since I built it and works great.  I called Joe Gibbs oil and talked to them and they created this oil specifically for flat tappet cams.  It is HR15W-50 racing oil.  It is formulated for older flat tappet engines and has high levels of zinc and phosperous and is recommended in applications that mey sit for a period of time.  This oil has worked great and I use it in sub zero temps here in North Dakota and has protected my engine very well.  They are very helpfull on the phone also. Here is the link to the oil I use inmy Y.

http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/products/highperformance/hr3.html

paul2748
Posted 12 Years Ago
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Frankenstein57 (11/23/2012)
This information was on a newsletter I received, the author does an analysis of approximately 20 oils. He states all the technical information to back his work. I've been using the shell rotella, he says he wouldn't walk across the street for it. Its a good read anyways




The problem with this study (I have seen it before) is that the CI oils are probably out of production at this point of time. At 1100 or more PPM the Rotella still seems to be ok for flat tappet engines. It certainly has more PPM of ZDDP than any oil back in the 50's, '60's or somewhat later had.



I use Rotella in both of my YBlocks. One car (a 56 Bird 312) made a trip to Oregon and back (from NJ) at continual speeds of 65-70 MPH (2800 to 2850 RPM's) with no adverse effects. The other car, while not as extensively used, has made a number of shorter trips, again at the same speeds, with no adverse effects.



Now if I were racing a car, I would probably use a racing oil. Whether its true or not, I have heard that racing oil in a street car is not the answer as racing oil has a different set of additives than a street oil. True???????

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

jrw429
Posted 12 Years Ago
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Here is a rebuttal to the www.speedtalk.com posting by the developer of ZDDPlus.

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/an-oil-test-that-shows-zddplus-may-not-help-richard-c-please-look.380082/page-2#post-3049361



I certainly am no tribologist, but he seems to be speaking from a place of knowledge.

Jim - Erie Colorado, 1957 Country Sedan
charliemccraney
Posted 12 Years Ago
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Interesting article. I'm glad I've chosen to use and stick with VR1 with no additives.


Lawrenceville, GA
Frankenstein57
Posted 12 Years Ago
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This information was on a newsletter I received, the author does an analysis of approximately 20 oils. He states all the technical information to back his work. I've been using the shell rotella, he says he wouldn't walk across the street for it. Its a good read anyways





thanks, Mark
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Ted
Posted 12 Years Ago
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Here’s a link to  a thread where some private testing that was done with various additives is discussed.  The author concludes that the oil film strength typically ends up being compromised when additives are added.

http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=31791&sid=92fcb0c59f66c826e8eeaf64e41d4896#p378825 

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


Ted
Posted 12 Years Ago
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As Daniel brings up, the zinc content in the oil is specific to cam/lifter wear and not particularly necessary for cylinder head valve seats. And Paul is right in that the oil selection for flat tappet camshafts has been discussed heavily in the past. Here are just a few links to some of the older oil discussions on this forum.

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General discussion1

General discussion2

General discussion3

Gil Baumgartner oil study

Multi-viscosity oil clarification

Why to not use diesel oil in a gasoline engine

ZDDP

Performing a search will bring up a bunch more.

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If a zinc additive is required, my personal preference is ZDDPlus. In general, the smaller the bottle or the more concentrated the additive, the better it is as that reduces the amount of base stock oil that’s included with the additive. I’ve used the GM EOS in the past but have not seen the zinc/phosphate amounts in that particular additive since it was brought back as a new part number after it had been discontinued for awhile.

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And here’s a word of warning about zinc supplements. Adding additional zinc in the form of supplements where the oil already has the necessary amounts overloads the oil with too much zinc and that by itself creates other issues including cam lobe pitting. Read the API bulletin for the SN oils that still retain the required amounts of zinc for the older engines. Once the appropriate SN rated oil for your application is chosen, you’ll find that using supplements or oil formulated for diesel engines are not required. And let’s add this: Starting with the SN classification on the oil, many of the diesel oils now have reduced zinc amounts.

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Here’s the link to the article that was recently published in the Y-Block Magazine that goes into more detail on the variety of the reasons for cam lobe/lifter tappet failures on flat tappet camshafts. Engine oil by itself is only one of many considerations when taking into account the multitude of other reasons for cam/lifter failures.

Camshaft and Lifter Failure Causes



Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)




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