Hello, It is almost time to do the yearly oil change on my 292. It is used lightly, less than 1000 miles/yr, and I have always used Havoline 10-40. I would like to use a zinc additive, as I am fairly sure the valve seats have not been prepared for unleaded fuel.

I would be interested to hear the thoughts of the group!

Thanks, James Q, Ruston,LA

James,



You are likely confusing zinc with lead. If the 10W-40 turns out to be too low in ZDDP to protect your cam lobes & lifters, you would probably be better off to just change oil brands. The additive is only (reportedly) proven effective for initial break-in.



I have over 100K of on OEM iron valve seats using unleaded with no problems. As long as you don't run at high speeds for extended periods, hard seats aren't essential, especially if the motor was originally run with lead.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Shell Rotella-T 15w40.Already has the additive in it.One of the last ones to have it.As far as the valve seats-when they go bad redo the heads with inserts on the exhaust valves.

  

James;

Amsoil makes a ZDDP additive, but their 10-40 Premium oil is also formulated with it specifically for flat tappet motors

Rono

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

Hi Guys

Oldcarmark is correct. Rotella T 15-40 still has the ZDDP in it.  A few months ago I actually called Shell and (after a LOT of "let me connect you to ....") got to speak with an engineer who was very knowledgable about the ZDDP issue for flat tappet cams. 

The ONLY Shell oil that still has an appropriate amount of ZDDP in it is the Shell Rotella T 15-40 which is usually considered for diesel engines.  He told me that when Shell changes any formulation he hears about and works with it for about three years before it comes out on the market.  He said there was no indication that this Rotella T formula was even being considered for change.

I have used it with no isues for several years although I run an additive in my 428 and Y blocks.  I don't use racing oil with ZDDP (Valvevoline comes to mind), or expensive synthetics (like Amsoil) though maybe I should, break in oil with ZDDP or break in additives with ZDDP.

The most cost effective additive I've found is from Comp Cams at about $10 which I order from Summit Racing.

If you're concerned about valve seats not handling unleaded gas you can get lead additive from many auto supply stores, Walmart, or any farm type supply store. I ran the stuff in my old Ford tractors for many years. 

Hope this helped

Missouri Mike

I'd rather be lucky than good.................

    but good ain't bad!!

Our moderator Ted may step in here.. this subject has been thrashed to death. However, there are a few basics to keep in mind when buying oil for our favorite engines. Do not buy any oil which has the "star or gear wheel" on the label. Those oils are for modern roller valve train engines. Most multi weight oils, "heavier" than 10-30, have sufficient zddp content. Some people have resorted to racing oils for their anti scuff additives. For a street engine this is likely not a great idea. If in doubt, obtain a MSDS report on the oil. Rottela T is favoured by some, & I've used it some, however I believe (and could be corrected on this point) that Ted E. had some reservations about that oil. I don't recall the details for sure.

Paul

You might also try Brad Penn products

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

Valvoline VR-1 20W50 Racing, Champion 20W50 or then just add Lucas oil Engine break in lube http://www.jegs.com/i/Lucas+Oil/639/10063/10002/-1 . We tried that Lucas with our turbo engine and it really seems to work. Engine is very greasy and slippery inside

That "Not designed to use in passenger cars" must have something to do with catalysators?

 Seppo from Järvenpää, Finland
www.hollowheads.net (just click the hole in the head to proceed)

I use Brad Penn products High Performance 10-30

http://penngrade1.com/

This is the best prices Ihave found. I usually buy 2-3 cases at a time to reduce shipping costs. Three cases is under the UPS max weight per package.

http://www.buyracingparts.com/lubricants/brad-penn-racing-oil-10w30.html

Here is a write up on adding additives to oils.

http://penngrade1.com/CMSFiles/File/July%202011_PG1HP_TECH_LETTER_ZDDP_BRAD_PENN.pdf


I have no interests in this business.

marv

As Daniel brings up, the zinc content in the oil is specific to cam/lifter wear and not particularly necessary for cylinder head valve seats. And Paul is right in that the oil selection for flat tappet camshafts has been discussed heavily in the past. Here are just a few links to some of the older oil discussions on this forum.

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General discussion1

General discussion2

General discussion3

Gil Baumgartner oil study

Multi-viscosity oil clarification

Why to not use diesel oil in a gasoline engine

ZDDP

Performing a search will bring up a bunch more.

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If a zinc additive is required, my personal preference is ZDDPlus. In general, the smaller the bottle or the more concentrated the additive, the better it is as that reduces the amount of base stock oil that’s included with the additive. I’ve used the GM EOS in the past but have not seen the zinc/phosphate amounts in that particular additive since it was brought back as a new part number after it had been discontinued for awhile.

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And here’s a word of warning about zinc supplements. Adding additional zinc in the form of supplements where the oil already has the necessary amounts overloads the oil with too much zinc and that by itself creates other issues including cam lobe pitting. Read the API bulletin for the SN oils that still retain the required amounts of zinc for the older engines. Once the appropriate SN rated oil for your application is chosen, you’ll find that using supplements or oil formulated for diesel engines are not required. And let’s add this: Starting with the SN classification on the oil, many of the diesel oils now have reduced zinc amounts.

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Here’s the link to the article that was recently published in the Y-Block Magazine that goes into more detail on the variety of the reasons for cam lobe/lifter tappet failures on flat tappet camshafts. Engine oil by itself is only one of many considerations when taking into account the multitude of other reasons for cam/lifter failures.

Camshaft and Lifter Failure Causes

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)