Posted Today @ 1:10 AM
Supreme Being Group: Forum Members Last Login: Today @ 1:08 AM Posts: 130, Visits: 450	I tried that and there was no contact? What did you try? WHAT?

Tips are really helpful.I am just go through it and found much progress in performance.


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jumper from + battery to + coil side and there was zero reaction,

Claim to fame is the car was used as an extra in the movie Diner with Micky Rourke, Steve Gootenburg, Paul Riser and Kevin Bacon.

If the jumper from the battery to coil did not work then you have a bad or maladjusted ignition component, no ground or a really dead battery.



Is there a ground strap from the engine to the frame and/or body?

Try running jumpers from the distributor body to ground and the engine block to ground along with the jumper from + battery to + coil. YOu can use a jumper cable for the engine and a smaller alligator clip jumper for the distributor.


Lawrenceville, GA

With the jumper from battery to coil + did you crank it wth your remote starter button?It wont start just by jumping that connection.You still need to turn it over.

  

I appreciate everyone's help on this, when I was in my early twenties I was a trouble shooter for mining equipment electronics but now I'm 62 and can't concentrate and see like I used to so I'm kind of frustrated but I will find the problem. Most of all I appreciate everybody's patience with me.

Claim to fame is the car was used as an extra in the movie Diner with Micky Rourke, Steve Gootenburg, Paul Riser and Kevin Bacon.

Using Ohm scale check connection between engine block and ground. You should have a very good connection. (Reads zero Ohms, or very near it. Less than 1)



If you check with a DC volts scale and there is a good connection you will see NO voltage at all. The two points will be electrically the same. If you do see voltage between the two points (engine block and frame ground) you have a poor connection. This will show up especially under heavy load like cranking the starter. (Starter motors are beasts! and guzzle electricity rapidly) .



So! If you set your meter to DC Volts and connect it between the frame and the engine block, then crank the starter you should still see no voltage at all if everything is hunky dory. If the engine is partially isolated from the car's ground then you are likely to see some voltage there. This needs to be resolved. A heavy jumper cable from frame to engine block will work as a test. (If the problem is particularly bad and the jumper has to shoulder all the current a light #14 gauge may well go up in smoke.)



I had this problem on a '55 Willy's Wagon. Turns out the electricity was flowing through bearings etc, so connection was unstable. Car ran badly until I installed a ground strap from frame to the block. It ran sweet after that.

I haven't gone back and reread every post this morning, but if I remember correctly you had voltage to the coil but no spark at the points. Probing the points arm with the voltmeter or test light should tell you if the primary wire from the coil to distributor has continuity. We sold a lot of those primary wires at the Ford dealer where I worked. It is attached to the points and works back and forth with the distributor advance and eventually breaks the wire inside. Usually it causes an intermittent problem, but if the wire is good and the points are working, the test light will flash on and off as the points open and close. If the test light stays on when the points are closed then either the wire or points are bad. You should also see a spark at the points when you turn the engine or open and close them by hand. In rare cases I have seen new points that simply did not work. I never had time to try to examine them to see why, but maybe they could be grounded at the pivot when they were assembled? Hope this helps. Tom



Tom from the chiggerfarm located in the beautiful Heart of Central Texas

When you cannot dazzle others with your brilliance, baffle them with bullcorn!

OK, I should have proofread my post. If the points were grounded at the pivot, or any where else, the test light would not be on. For the points to be at fault, there must be a reason why they don't make contact, a film of something on them, or dirty. Tom



Tom from the chiggerfarm located in the beautiful Heart of Central Texas

When you cannot dazzle others with your brilliance, baffle them with bullcorn!

Its your car that won`t start, so when someone tries to help you make the effort on your part to give an answer to a direct question.

To get a spark at the sparkplug end you need a complete circuit. Bat pos term to coil pos post. Coil neg post to distributor. Small wire inside distributor to ground the points. With a complete circuit the points opening will break the circuit and cause a spark. If the coil and condensor are good the 12 volts from the battery is stepped up to 20,000 volts.

QUESTION. With the jumper, bat plus to coil positive post can you read voltage from coil positive post to ground? From coil neg post to ground? From small wire in distributor to ground?

Until you do get a complete circuit FORGET your Alt, radio, ignition switch, etc etc etc. Once you can produce a spark at the points, ask more help. Pete