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12 volt conversion II - BAD

Posted By MG Cook 13 Years Ago
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oldcarmark
Posted 13 Years Ago
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With the ignition switch turned to the "run"position-the one before you cause the starter to engage-should be 12 volts to the + side of the coil if you are not using a ballast resistor..You should have 2 wires on that terminal.One from the ignition switch and one from the "Ï"  terminal of the solenoid.The one from the solenoid gives 12 volts when the starter is engaged.As soon as you release the key 12 volts comes from the ignition switch.Nothing in your wiring should have been changed other than adding the bypass wire from the solenoid to the coil.

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MG Cook
Posted 13 Years Ago
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that's the way it's wired.

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rick55
Posted 13 Years Ago
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I haven't piped in on the problems you are having as I didn't want to confuse you.

The ignition switch has four functions.

In the Acc position there is only power to circuits on this terminal.

Off isolates all circuits.

Run provides power to all circuits connected to either the run terminal or accessory terminal.

Start provides power only to the start circuit.

This is how most 12volt switches work. If you are using your original switch it may be slightly different in function. It should continue to provide power to all circuits when the start is switched.

It sounds to me like you are using the start circuit S terminal to provide power to the ignition and starter solenoid, with nothing connected to the run circuit I terminal.

The ignition circuit (the one running to the coil) should be connected to the I terminal of the switch. The starter circuit should connect to the S terminal.

You then need to run a wire from the spare terminal of the starter solenoid to the coil + terminal. This is the wiring for a late model switch. Your switch should provide power to the coil when it is start or run with a wire connected to the I terminal.

If you are using the original 6 volt switch it would seem that it is U/S if you have it wired correctly.

It is normal for the radio to go off when starting as the accessory circuit is disconnected when in the start position.

I hope all this helps and I haven't confused you too much.

Regards


Rick - West Australia
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rick55
Posted 13 Years Ago
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I am sure someone has posted something like this circuit before in other posts, but this should make it easy to understand.







They have spliced a wire from the i terminal of the starter solenoid into the wire going to the + terminal of the coil after the resistor. They suggest a ballast resistor. Wire 16 goes to the B terminal of the ignition switch, wire 20 goes to the I terminal, a wire is needed from the S terminal of the ignition switch to the S terminal of the solenoid. If you wire up as per this diagram your problems should go away. If they don't your switch is fritzed.

I hope this helps

Rick - West Australia
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MG Cook
Posted 13 Years Ago
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my solenoid is reverse of yours, my s terminal is left and my I is right, I do have a jumper from I to coil + but I don't have a wire directly from the switch to the terminal I.

I thank you for your help, you haven't confused me at all, hopefully I'll have it wired right tomorrow.

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oldcarmark
Posted 13 Years Ago
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You dont need a wire from switch to I terminal on solenoid.The only wire from I on solenoid is to coil + terminal.As rick mentioned you need a wire from ignition switch to S terminal.That wire would already be there on the 6 volt setup.By the way anyone who is interested-the ignition switch is the same from 52-59 on all Ford passenger cars.6 or 12 volts doesnt make a difference.i still think your problem is the switch itself.If you have to wiggle the key to get a contact its worn inside.

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MG Cook
Posted 13 Years Ago
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which it is, it's the neutral control wire or is there another wire from the ignition as well?

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oldcarmark
Posted 13 Years Ago
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The wire through the neutral switch ends up at the solenoid allowing the starter to crank.That circiut is workig as you can crank it-just wont start.If you take a jumper  wire from + on the battery to the + on the coil you bypass the ignition switch altogether.Disconnect the wire from the I terminal on the solenoid.Use your remote starter to crank the engine and it should start or attempt to start.To shut it off disconnect power wire to the coil from battery.You dont even need the ignition switch at all.By the way I hope you either disconnected power to the dash gauges or installed a 12-6 voltage drop.They wont take 12 volts.Also disconnect power to the  radio until you get a proper voltage drop for it.Macs Auto sells one for the gauge power and a radio repair store should have proper one for radio.

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Granny'56
Posted 13 Years Ago
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You might want to use your ohm meter to check for connection between your block and the frame ground of your car. I had a problem some years ago. Best test is to put meter (set on DC volts) between frame ground (- terminal on battery) and a ground on engine block. When you crank the engine you should see very little voltage dropped here. Not even half a volt if there is a firm ground connection twixt ground and block.
MG Cook
Posted 13 Years Ago
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I tried that and there was no contact?

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