(Update, DO NOT USE BRONCO MASTER....I think I screwed up, bronco master cylinder is not one to use for the upgrade....my mind must have swapped "bronco" for "mustang" I've come back searching through this site and found no reference to Bronco master cylinders.  Since I thought it was this forum that recommended the Bronco master I clearly screwed up)

Alright guys, I've replaced everything, the entire brake system all brake lines, hoses, wheel cylinders etc.  Only thing not stock is I'm using a 1968 Bronco Master Cylinder.  No leaks.  I've bled the system.  Drums were turned smooth, brand new pads.  Brakes are adjusted pretty darn tight.

My problem is I don't get a firm pedal until the SECOND push on the pedal.  The first push goes to the floor with no slowing of the car, then the second push stops about 4-5 inches from the floor board and stops the car well.   Why two pushes of the pedal?  What am I missing?

Don't worry I've only driven 12 ft back-and-forth in the driveway, roads in Wisconsin are still safe

Nate - Madison, Wisconsin

 

56 Ford Customline Sedan

 

Nate,

Air in the line or a leak somewhere.

Cheers

Warren

Grizzly (Aussie Mainline)

Nate   Warren is right!!    Air or Leak..   How are you bleeding the system?  Do you have a helper or are you using a bleeder tool??    My suggestion would get someone to help!!   Fill the master cylinder and have someone pump the pedal until you get the pedal, Hold the pedal down while you go under the car and bleed the wheels.   Always start at the right rear (farist away from the master)  Slowly open the bleed port-- it will squirt out.  pump it up again and hold it down with presure on it. bleed it again and continue until there is no bubbles. Keep checking master-don't want to run out of fluid.  After the right rear is bleed go to the left rear and repeat, then the right front, and finally the left front.   Should have a good pedal.  PUMP IT UP--HOLD IT bleed--  PUMP IT UP-- HOLD IT  bleed again.  Good luck  Hope this helps!!!   God Bless    Eddie

Eddie

Lake Forest, Ca. 92630

Eddie, i,m with you on that procedure, nate, theres no need for person pumping pedal to try and push it through the floor, just a light firm pressure is enough and is less messy when cracking the bleeder. you will find one that just has more air than the rest and problem should be solved.

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

depending on the master cylinder.. Is it a dual circuit job? you need to bleed the master cylinder first back into itself. Attach the lines, then bleed as discribed.



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

One other thing I do in addition to the already mentioned procedures in attach a hose of the appropriate size on the bleeder and run it to a jar of CLEAN brake fluid. Keep the hose submerged in the fluid at all times. That way you can see the air bubbles and ensure you have the air out, when you have no more bubbles.



I have actually bleed brakes by myself using the above suggestion as you cannot suck air back into the system.

"The Master Cylinder"

Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL

Thanks guys!

I will have to wrangle my brother into helping me.  I used Master Cylinder's method to bleed the system, using a hose submerged in a clear jar of brake fluid.  Starting at the right rear I would pump the pedal until no bubbles would come out of the hose. (I'd have to lay across the seat with my head hanging out the passenger door to see the jar!)  Then I would walk back and tighten the bleeder valve before removing the hose from the bleeder.  I would continue, ending at the front driver's side wheel.  I could see fluid filling the jar with no bubbles, so it seemed even a slight push of the pedal was moving fluid quite well.  I could actually see the fluid level rise in the jar as I pushed the pedal.

Before assembling the system I did bleed the master cylinder back into itself using some extra scrap brake lines.

I'm 99% sure there are no leaks, I've left her sit for a couple weeks after bleeding the brakes and there isn't a drop of fluid anywhere on the cement under the car, and the level has remained full in the master cylinder.  So it seems my only option is to just re-bleed with a helper.  Most times I've bled brakes in the past I have asked for help and had the person hold the pedal down as I tighten the bleeder screw...so maybe that will do it.  It has just been so hard to schedule time to work on this so it has been hard to schedule help.  usually I'm just swinging by the garage when I have a few extra minutes.  But I'll get someone to help this weekend hopefully. 

Any other bleeding tips I should try when I get back out there?

Nate - Madison, Wisconsin

 

56 Ford Customline Sedan

 

Only question I have is -is the master cylinder new,used,or reconditioned?Is it for 4 wheel drum brake or disc/drum.Not sure if disc was available on Bronco back then

  

Hi,

I had troubles of getting all air out for a corvette. The working tip was to run the engine so the break booster helps as well. Use the trick of master cylinder. I'll put over a tramsparent silocone hose, and just open the screw, so it has to squirt out. The hose is rising upward for the first section, so the air can go up and the fluid down.

Keep the master cylinder well filled or you have to redo the job.

I hope it helps.

Stephan

Owner of lincoln '53 capri coupe and capri coupe '54

[quote]Big6ft6 (7/13/2011)

---

I'm 99% sure there are no leaks, I've left her sit for a couple weeks after bleeding the brakes and there isn't a drop of fluid anywhere on the cement under the car, and the level has remained full in the master cylinder. 

/quote]

Nate,

I'll stress again that any leak, no matter how small, will prevent you from getting the pedal pressure that you need. A leak that shows up on the floor is major. A leak that you can only detect by an oily feel by touching a line joint is enough to get air in the system. A brake system must not leak any fluid at all. 

Check for leaks in the system closed by pressing the brake pedal as hard as you can and checking each joint with your hand. Any wet or oily feeling indicates a leak. Keep your hands clean and use a clean cloth to remove and old oil.

Keep with it you'll get it sorted.

Cheers

Warren    

Grizzly (Aussie Mainline)