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New Bonneville Race Truck

Posted By 57FordPU 15 Years Ago
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Cliff
Posted 5 Years Ago
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Supercharged

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Check these out

https://www.jegs.com/i/E3-Spark-Plugs/368/E3.72/10002/-1
charliemccraney
Posted 5 Years Ago
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It took about 60 spark plugs for me to get a set that was mostly where I wanted them the last time I did it.


Lawrenceville, GA
57FordPU
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Just some things I do.  Others have taught me and sometimes I listen.  I'm still learning.

Indexing plugs has always been a part of the tune.  Keeping the ground strap base away from the combustion chamber as much as possible has made sense to me.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/2d8b6a85-c041-46ea-8e30-f0ba.jpg

You don't always get them perfect, but after trying all plugs in all holes, you do the best you can.  Sometimes you have to try more than 8 plugs.  Even with MSD, I gap at .035 to help the spark from blowing out under boost.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/383b6dfe-34ed-4aa3-b7ca-61d7.jpg


Charlie Burns Laton, Ca (South of Fresno)

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BurnsRacing981@gmail.com
57FordPU
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If you noticed the three bolt flanges that connected the exhaust system, they now have been changed to a "V" band clamp.  The three bolt flanges worked just fine for the low (5lb psi) boost, but my plans are to crank it up to at least 10 and these clamps become necessary.  There are two in the system.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/91e1a7b9-19c2-48d4-a9fc-f269.jpg

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/d9fe6af8-837b-460f-be3f-4459.jpg

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/fc6370fb-29e9-434a-8c09-f983.jpg


Charlie Burns Laton, Ca (South of Fresno)

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BurnsRacing981@gmail.com
57FordPU
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Next is a hand made collector.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/a57c3fb9-4f9a-4b5d-8f38-5afa.jpg

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/917cc997-26a1-4567-8998-5fa4.jpg

Too bad I won't use much of it.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/dd6d2c3b-a121-4e75-bc65-0069.jpg



Charlie Burns Laton, Ca (South of Fresno)

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BurnsRacing981@gmail.com
Dave C
Posted 5 Years Ago
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Good to know.. Thanks..

Dave
57FordPU
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Thanks for the comment Dave.  In my case, the turbo is actually mounted to the front roll cage support and to the top of the timing cover.  It is a very solid mounting system and it adds to keeping the engine still as well.  The engine is also mounted solid to the cross member and frame.  There is more movement than just from the engine itself.  There is also movement in the headers and crossover pipe from heat expansion and ultimately contractions when it cools down.  I like your thinking about a cushion mounted turbo, and perhaps a complete engine mounting on the timing cover would work very well.
I'm kinda stuck with this system and it really has served me well (except for my mistake).  I've had no pipe or welding failures in the headers themselves.  There are two flex pipes in this system and the other one is in the crossover pipe that connects the passenger side exhaust to the merge with the driver's side.  It has never given me a problem and most likely that's because I didn't have to narrow the pressed collars on each end.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/466a582f-432a-4078-84a6-08cb.jpg


Charlie Burns Laton, Ca (South of Fresno)

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BurnsRacing981@gmail.com
Dave C
Posted 5 Years Ago
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I  may be way off base here but, I have never seen a turbo using a flex joint to attach the header to the turbo. Most I have seen used a solid exhaust connection with the turbo mounted as to be able to flex ie rubber mounts. Wouldn't that be a better fix?

Again, I'm not a tubo guy just what I have noticed on several different cars.

Dave
57FordPU
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Hello, Ian,
I hope you and your family are safe down under.  We are doing our best here and pray for everyone's health as we try to get through this pandemic. 
You are correct, I did plan to make changes to the turbo system.  I fired the old engineer (me) and hired a new engineer (me).  It's no excuse that this was my first attempt to build a custom turbo system from scratch, but I made a fatal error "while" placing the flexible exhaust section just ahead of the driver's side header.  It was a simple error and yet it caused me many headaches.  Everything is so tight under the hood and the distance from the header collector to the merge area was shorter than the smallest flexible exhaust section I could find.  My cure (old engineer) was to shorten the flanges on the ends of the flex pipe.  This shortened machine pressed collar did  weld fine to the merge pipe flange, and it welded ok at the header end.  The exhaust flow exiting the merge end gave no problem with the narrowed collar, however, the exhaust entering the flex pipe did considerable damage to the interior pressed collar on the header collector side.  When that interior collar started to tare away, it eliminated the clamping pressure for the exterior ring and the flex pipe started to disintegrate.

As of now, my solution (new engineer) was to shorten the collection of individual exhaust pipes to make a new collection area and use a new flex pipe without shortening the flanges.  I'll post more as the system makes progress.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/5ba23ecc-540d-4cad-9edb-2097.jpg 


Charlie Burns Laton, Ca (South of Fresno)

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BurnsRacing981@gmail.com
ian57tbird
Posted 5 Years Ago
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Hey Charlie. I thought you were going to look at alternatives to those flex joints after have several failures in the past. 


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