all i need to do now is try to do a static balance with an old eccentric!!

 

next the oil trough but thats on hold   the wifes pulled a muscle in her leg and is in great pain so i'm the "go fer"

thanks Ted and everybody else      this is a great site for beginners like me

stuey 

thanks for the tips

i'm not above finding alternative methods    i'm hoping to borrow the broach from a model engineer friend. if not i've considered drilling a 5/32 hole on the circumference of the 1" hole prior to drilling & reaming said hole this would give me a notch that would require minimal filing for the keyway

i've got a 25mm drill bit that should leave enough meat for a 1" spiral flute(needed to stop shudder on the pre drilled notch) reamer to work on

another problem with the broach is that the counter balance will need to be backed with a piece of scrap to prevent it dropping between the teeth   i wondered why they are advertised with a min cut

thanks again everyone

stuey

  

I agree. No broach is needed. A die grinder, Dremel, jig saw, band saw, hack saw, etc can be used to start the notch. Finish it with a file.


Lawrenceville, GA

I am also thinking Ted as you have an original counter weight, some material, bluing, a band saw, and a belt sander, along with a couple of drills and a Mill might suffice to rough out a suitable copy. Lots of time involved, and you would really need to want one.

The trough would be a major task if the original was to be duplicated but a simplified version could be roughed out. 

May be a bit crude for you but an 1/8 in mill and a file may substitute for a broach especially in a non critical fit as this appears. Ted: Neat solution for adding keyways.

Ted

thanks for taking the time and effort to reply.

i'll go for the offset bush, i did find a Dumont 5/32 C broach at Fastenal for    wait for it       $236.88!! too rich for me.

now its time to knuckle down and do it

thanks a lot

stuey

On the smaller diameter holes, I typically have to build my own broach collars depending upon the key cutter being used.  Here’s a picture of a 5/8” diameter ‘B’ collar that inserts into a 1" diameter offset bored bushing for doing the 5/32” key slots in Y-Block camshaft timing gears.  And here’s also a picture of a ‘C’ collar machined for a ‘B’ cutter.

   

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

John  thanks for the comments

i have no intention of going into production  i'm a backyard DIYer who loves to have a go.

since getting the Y powered F100 i've mastered TIG welding (only in the down hand position)  replaced the drivers side floor    i've also learnt how to bend a new oil pickup tube using sand fill method      the first attempts tore apart but with a little patience it worked    all my existing pickups are well bashed    now i'm learning about broaches and keyways all thanks to the Y-block

a lot of info is on You-Tube from a gent called Tublecain all basic but good. home casting is on the horizon and home made headers

the truck came from Klamath falls Oregon and i've seen a couple of contributors on this site that may be from that area   the previous owner was Don Tidwell who also had a Y powered Morris Minor !!!

happy new year   stuey

The fuel pump cam was changed in 56 when the dual diaphragm pumps became the norm and wear appeared on the outer surface.

The new cams were heat hardened. You can usually see a blued tinge to the cam when comparing to a 55 cam.

As to weight of cam I have never weighed one. Visually they look the same thickness

just a stupid question, did they change the weight of the fuel pump cam?

 lincoln/merc. y-blocks &mel's                                                               bucyrus, ohio.