I’m looking for some oil troughs that were on the early blocks used for directing additional oil to the timing chain.  These are just a stamped steel piece that fastened to the block behind the timing chain with a single screw.  I can also use the fuel pump lobe counterweights that were also discontinued in 1956 so I’m interested in those also.  Here’s a couple of pics.

If you have any of these you’d like to get rid of, then contact me using the email address or the phone number at this site address.  http://www.eatonbalancing.com/contact.php

Do you believe that the fuel pump counter weights are benificial in camshaft balancing?

Oldmics

I'm intrigued.  Are you finding the timing chains need a little more oil?  Or maybe trying to control windage at the front?

Oldmics

Ford did bring the fuel pump counterweight back into production on the 271HP 289’s though so the engineers did recognize some benefit from the use of it in a performance application. 

Early inline chev sixes had a short tube extending over the timing gears, connected to the camshaft bearing oil passage.  Could this idea help a Y?  I think Speedpro's engines have a small (.030?) hole drilled into the front oil passage to squirt lube onto the crank gear.  Richard Gaston used to scratch a small notch in the front cam bearing to bleed extra oil to the cam thrust area.  I have seen several engines with wear in that area.

i see you've had no offers, i've been looking ever since reading your article on camshaft balancing and have not come up with anything. i think i could bash up a trough with a big hammer and a piece of rusty tin but the counter wt. would need some help. i'm guessing you are going to be more successful than me in obtaining one, any chance of posting a flat on pic.

i'm guessing its the same thickness as the spacer an could scale the pic from the bore to come close?

thanks in advance

stuey 

has bit more curve than i thought but thats ok. any chance of a similar pic of the counter balance?

some time after xmas no hurry. i'm away for xmas with family this year

MerrY  Xmas and a happY New Year to all Y-blockers

stuey

i'm just back from the kids carrying an extra 7lbs weight    thats not good it takes months to shift..

Ted thanks a bundle for the counter wt. pics they scaled up good.   can't come up with any thing 160 thou with out surface grinding but 4 mm is only 2 thou shy and its off the shelf   gonna use grade 01 tool steel its a bit better than mild steel and i'm thinking it will be better for the keyway     now there's another problem. i think the key way is 5/32 and the bore is 1".  the only broaches i've seen are 5/32 B and the only sleeves of 1" do not go down to 5/32

any comments  advice??

thanks folks

stuey 

The originals had to have been stamped.  Hand building them like you are proposing would have been too slow and expensive.  Even Ford must have thought stamped ones were too expensive and eliminated them.  Thousands of new car buyers never new the difference.  The use of tool steel would be overkill, they are clamped in place, there would be no load on the key. Are you thinking of producing them for sale?  It would be a very small market.  JMHO

i have no intention of going into production  i'm a backyard DIYer who loves to have a go.

since getting the Y powered F100 i've mastered TIG welding (only in the down hand position)  replaced the drivers side floor    i've also learnt how to bend a new oil pickup tube using sand fill method      the first attempts tore apart but with a little patience it worked    all my existing pickups are well bashed    now i'm learning about broaches and keyways all thanks to the Y-block

a lot of info is on You-Tube from a gent called Tublecain all basic but good. home casting is on the horizon and home made headers

the truck came from Klamath falls Oregon and i've seen a couple of contributors on this site that may be from that area   the previous owner was Don Tidwell who also had a Y powered Morris Minor !!!

happy new year   stuey

thanks for taking the time and effort to reply.

i'll go for the offset bush, i did find a Dumont 5/32 C broach at Fastenal for    wait for it       $236.88!! too rich for me.

now its time to knuckle down and do it

thanks a lot

stuey

The trough would be a major task if the original was to be duplicated but a simplified version could be roughed out. 

i'm not above finding alternative methods    i'm hoping to borrow the broach from a model engineer friend. if not i've considered drilling a 5/32 hole on the circumference of the 1" hole prior to drilling & reaming said hole this would give me a notch that would require minimal filing for the keyway

i've got a 25mm drill bit that should leave enough meat for a 1" spiral flute(needed to stop shudder on the pre drilled notch) reamer to work on

another problem with the broach is that the counter balance will need to be backed with a piece of scrap to prevent it dropping between the teeth   i wondered why they are advertised with a min cut

thanks again everyone

stuey

next the oil trough but thats on hold   the wifes pulled a muscle in her leg and is in great pain so i'm the "go fer"

thanks Ted and everybody else      this is a great site for beginners like me

stuey