Dave - I don't have this style of PCV set-up installed on my engine - mine has an adapter to the road draft tube port at the left rear of the T-bird valley cover. What it takes is a PCV that has 1/4 pipe threads on the "unchecked" (engine) side of the valve (poor choice of words.......). The Ford part (I believe) has the pipe threads on the suction side and usually screws into the spacer under the carb(?). 

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

mctim64 (4/10/2009)

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Also, here are the pics of the oil hole I drill in the front to lube the chain. I would have had it sooner but all the engines I have out in the garage are closed up and I hadn't taken any picture of this mod before.

Tim.  Thanks for sharing the pics of the oil hole behind the thrust plate.  Another great alternative and adds to the list of options for oil mods.  I agree with Tim in that the directing oil channel can go either in the block or in the rear of the thrust plate and be equally effective.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

like your post. i just got my 292 back from machinist. he recomended .oo2 cl on.040 pistons with moly rings. I decided to stay with the stock style chain, mainly because when I was 18 my first car 55meteor (can.ford with 272) never changed gears till valve float, at 80000 miles did a 2nd valve st, the engine was spotles in side, chain was not bad and it burned little oil. tho as i was mechanics helper had axcess to shop at nights and changed oil and filter every 1000 miles (as it was free) the oil in the camp was 10/30 series 1 oil used in all gas and deisel engines. you should reconsider the rotela t oil as it is designed strictly for diesel engines and low sulphur fuel. the sludged up engines in pictures are signs of extremley poor servicing. these conditions would not exist with 10/30 prem. motor oil serviced at proper intervals re use, and of course the engine breather as well. i sent the rod reverend some 30 pages of research on engine oils . there have been other posts on oils here. rotela t has far less ability to high loads than most standerd gas engine oils, and like i mentioned on prev. post it was marked at 1 time diesel engines only, and do not use on flat tappet cams.

I would really like to see the pictures Tim has shared on this thread. However they seems to have gone missing? Anyone that have saved them?
Thanks in advance 
Jimmy

Best regards Jimmy Carlsson, Fagersta (Sweden) Ford F100 1956, 272 , 3 manual with OD
Follow my restoration on http://dinnerhillspeedshop.blogspot.se/

See if these two pictures help.  The first picture shows the additional hole drilled into the block that intersects the oil gallery.  That hole is larger at the surface and then much smaller where it breaks into the vertical oil galley.  The second picture shows the thrust plate with the groove that redirects the oil flow so it’s sideways and thrown towards the chain.

 

 

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

rotela t is a big mistake. not to be used  on flat tapes engines

Thanks alot Ted, that really helped out alot :-)

Just to be clear, the slot in the trust plate will be pointing about 90 degree to the right (seen from the front of the engine)? Right ?

How deep is the slot, in the trust plate, at the edge of the plate ?

Best regards Jimmy Carlsson, Fagersta (Sweden) Ford F100 1956, 272 , 3 manual with OD
Follow my restoration on http://dinnerhillspeedshop.blogspot.se/

Any direction technically works but 90° to the right (looking from the front) is likely best.


0.030”-0.040” deep 

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

RE TIMEING CHAIN lube,i had valve covers off,running warm engine to check clearance(i have enlarged groove on the cam and drain tubes removed and blocked,lots of oil to the top,between the oil going down the pushrods, plus oil down the lower drain (talking about  the pasenger side front) there is plenty of lude going to the chain. i would say the excess oil to the top end will reduce the load on the cam substanchely.the friction on the valve train due to uneven lubrication to rockers, valves push rods etc must be pretty high. i tried drilling into the oil gallery(front main supply on a partial assembled)292 pre lubeing the system with a drill and felt to much loss of pressure, so pluged the hole and went with what i did to my present  lube mod on 292 in my 1949 merc pickup. i have a large oil presure guage on the dash never see a drop  of presure on severe stops(disk  brakes) on the truck, no drop on exceleration)292 with 4v intake ,600 cfm holley dura spark ignition  3.73 rear axel 4speed t0p loader . my opinion tho never excepted  on this site, is lots of oil to the valve train re blocking drain tubes is the common cents way. now those running high output  race cars with ys  is another world. i want a good running Y for every day running.also i run 5/40 oil quaker state. i am not a rebuilder but do 2or3 ys  pr year no failures ,no race cars all good to ferry good performers

See if these two pictures help.  The first picture shows the additional hole drilled into the block that intersects the oil gallery.  That hole is larger at the surface and then much smaller where it breaks into the vertical oil galley.  The second picture shows the thrust plate with the groove that redirects the oil flow so it’s sideways and thrown towards the chain

TED EATON

Would it be advisable to have the oil directed to the to the trough (if so equipped) and then have it splashed on the chain? I see you offer that retro-fit for the later engines.

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