Ted - The remanufactured unit I have measures .995" from the bottom of the gear to the end of shaft.  Bottom of gear to the recessed collar I propose to add a split ring to is 4.997".  My next step is to pull my original LOM and do a side-by-side comparison, including gear dimensions and teeth. After that, I'll drop it in to see how it fits into the block and cam drive gear.  McMaster has a variety of materials for the split rings - Stainless, carbon steel, plated steel, aluminum.  I am thinking aluminum.  Once the split ring is installed, drill and insert two roll pins per side into the case.  Turn the split ring down as necessary.  Comments?
Thanks
Mike

The Ford Y-Block (2329/256/272/292/312), the Lincoln Y-Block (317/341/368), and the 289/302 SBF engines share the same basic dimensions on the distributor housing.  The distributor gears are different on each though, but they all share the same pilot dimensions and all use the same ¼” hex oil drive shaft.  The Ford Y and LYB do have longer shafts with them being almost 5” from the block mount to the bottom of the distributor gear whereas the SBF engines are approximately 4” from the block mount to the distributor gear bottom.  Using a SBF distributor requires lengthening of the shaft and using the Ford Y distributor gear.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Paul - I'll keep your contacts in my back pocket should I wind up rebuilding a '57+.
Thanks for letting me know.
Mike

Kultulz - that is exactly what I was trying to find out - If there is an advantage to the newer distributor.  I will pull the LOM and compare dimensions between the original and replacement.  I'll then confirm the SBF does indeed fit.  If that passes, I'll go talk to my machine shop concerning the split ring modifications. When I reinstall everything, I plan to replace the points and condenser with quality I know.
Thanks for the link to the SBF conversions.  It didn't come up in my searches.  It will be great reading.
This is uncharted territory for me as I've never done more than change the consumables of a distributor before.
Thanks for your insight.
Mike

Here are two people that rebuild the YBlock distributors in case you decide to go with one:
Lou Sumas  440-439-5628
Lee Johnson  812-598-8965
I have done business with Lou for my spares.  Seems to be good.  One he did I sold to another person and got no complaints about it.  Both were the 57-early 59 style.  Supposedly, the late 59 and later ones are the better of the two designs.
There seems to be a good amount of replacement parts available for the 57-early 59 style based in the info I have from CASCO.  I don't know about this on the late 59 and up style.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

"

So all the three H94's have a SPARK CTL VLV and you are going to disable the valves on the end carbs?

The DUAL ADV DIST requires a PORTED VACUUM SIGNAL to work correctly. The LOM signal is too weak, 

You will have to modify one of the carbs to provide the correct signal. There is a TECH ARTICLE available describing the modification.

How well does the engine run off the present LOM or are you wanting more and quicker acceleration?

I would use the DIST you have now and depending on how the rebuilder modified it (shaft length and gear placement) and the quality of parts used will save you some money. You just have to verify the conversion was done correctly.

The DIST is a DURASPARK II design which has a better internal design to make advance adjustments easier and finding NOS parts will be much easier.

The points and condenser are 12V POS but can operate off a 6V SYSTEM by reversing the GRD on it.

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Right now, I have the 6v LOM distributor and matching 2 bbl.  Vacuum signal comes off the port in the carb body.  I intend to keep the 6v, pos GND.
When I change over to the tri-power, I plan to first change out the distributor, test it, then install the new intake system.  The manifold is an Edelbrock 553; carbs are Ford script 94's.  I plan to rework the carbs with new spark control valve & remove them from the secondaries, rejet them, accelerator pumps, block of vacuum ports, etc.
You state that the Reman distributor will work once the fitment issues are resolved.  Any concern over adding the split collar fix?  Before I start down that path, I would test fit it into the block and check all the dimensions against the original LOM.
OR, I could find a '57+ distributor and get it rebuilt for probably the same cost as the machining.  Any advantages for one over the other?
Mike

Let me ask you a question that I should have asked at the beginning ...

You are now using a 1955 6V DIST that is LOAD-O-MATIC?

If you go to 1957/ DIST, it will be a DUAL ADVANCE which will require a PORTED VACUUM SOURCE rather than the LOM controlled signal through a CARB SPARK CONTROL valve.


Does your center carb (what model - FORD - HOLLEY - STROMBERG, etc.?.) have a SPARK CONTROL VALVE?

The DIST you have now will work (if machined and assembled correctly) if you can provide a ported vacuum source.

The car is going to remain 6V?

Let is know.

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Who rebuilds FYB distributors?  Assuming it needs everything from bearings on up?
Mike

I've never installed the remanufactured unit.  Without the extended flange, I was concerned that it would bottom out on either the gear or the oil drive rod - neither of which sounds good.  That, along with no flange for the hold clamp to capture, I didn't see how it would work without modifications.  Hence the split ring idea.
You mention '57-59 cores specifically.  Can I assume the ball bearing breaker plate more desirable than hinged units?
Mike