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I applaud you for doing what makes you comfortable.  I drive my cars (with the exception of the AA) on the freeway at 70 MPH.  I do not trailer them nor do they sit in the garage.  I drive the cars, although much less than my modern car. I read the comments and it seems that some feel that if you don't have 4 wheel disk brakes, a front suspension off a modern car, and lots of other modification that the car is not safe on the road.  If you feel the need to do such things, please go ahead, it is your car.  My point is that having driven since the mid 60's and with any vehicle you drive, you have to drive them as they were designed.  I am not afraid to drive a car with a single master cylinder, not do I feel that drum brakes are a must.  

I am with Cokefirst.  Our old cars do not have to be "museum pieces or hanger queens" but are very driveable and safe when well maintained and driven sensibly .  I have never had a brake failure in the 40+ years driving my 50's cars.   I drive all of my cars locally on short hops around town which gives me great pleasure.    I drove my "bone stock"  '54 Skyliner from SoCal to Tucson in the Summer heat and another time from SoCal to Vegas also in Summer with no problems.   I agree that if you intend to use these cars as a daily driver then there is good cause to update various systems.  But for the way that I believe most of us drive our cars, these 50's cars are very driveable and are not " museum pieces or hanger queens".  

TWO THINGS - 

For updated BENDIX LINKAGE POWER STEERING, the GRANADA UPDATE was popular at one time years ago -

IF the 1957-1959 K-H PEDAL ASSIST SYSTEM could be retrofitted to a 1954-56 chassis, the actual booster wold not be mounted on the firewall. Too old and broken down to try it - 

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Although I'm paraphrasing, I agree that there is nothing that these old vehicles can do as well as a new one, with the possible exception of looking good. On the other hand, I don't want to own a vehicle that can't be driven; therefore, I'm all in favor of making them safer and more reliable drivers, not museum exhibits or trailer queens. 

I am more of a purist but I also strongly believe that you can do whatever you want to your car.  I own 7 1950's Ford vehicles along with a 1931 AA.  On my two 1957 Fords, I have the KH power brake unit.   I have 4 small Thunderbirds all with the Midland brake unit along with a 1956 Ford F100 with a Midland.  I had to mount the Midland unit for the truck on the inner fender shield like the passenger cars since none of the brackets and fittings to mount it under the truck as original are available anywhere.  Even though the power brakes were an option on the truck, but in all the trucks I have looked at over the past 60 years, I have never seen one with the factory power brakes.  

I also do not put on dual master cylinders, disc brakes, or other modifications.  I also keep my engines and transmissions stock, and try to keep them in good operating condition.  I know I am driving a 70-90year old vehicle, and drive accordingly.  I leave lots of space between me and the car in front and am not interested in setting any speed records.  The only time I ever had a brake failure was in college when I was driving a poorly maintained 1955 Desoto and the front brake hose broke.  Had I kept the car in the same condition as I try to keep my old cars in now, that would not have happened.  

Do the brakes on my cars, even with power brakes work like the new cars?   Not a chance in hell.   They also do not steer, or handle like a new car, and even with rebuilt steering boxes and new or well maintained suspension parts, they are no match for any newer car.  I only drive my cars to club meetings, car shows and an occasional cruise.  I am OK with a 70 year old brake, steering and suspension and like driving my old car the way it was originally designed.  

The decisions you make for your car may be completely opposite of mine.  You need to do what you think is best for YOU and not what anyone else thinks.  

RELATED PREVIOUS THREAD - http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic168473.aspx

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"ABS had mixed reviews in older posts that I found.  So far I haven't found any recent reviews on ABS."

I used that photo (ABS) as an ILL of what the final appearance will be when installed. The 1954-46 booster install needs the offset as the MC will be too close to both the rocker cover and exhaust manifold. No matter what diameter booster you use will give the same appearance.

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I prefer sticking with OEM equipment on my cars so all four of them have OEM power steering systems.  Although the valves and the rams are prone to drip some fluid, power steering does indeed make these mid-fifties cars so much more of a pleasure to drive.  I will tell you that if you do decide to go original on the power steering, a correct and complete system will end up costing you 1.5K - 2K if you can even find one.   All of my cars have OEM power brake systems.  One has the remote Midland setup and the other three have Bendix Treadle-Vac setups.  Having both systems to compare, I believe that the Treadle-Vac  for sure delivers better braking and in fact the braking on those cars may even be a little too touchy.  However, for your car (if it is a '55 Ford passenger car) the only correct PB system is the Midland if you wish to go OEM.  Concours Parts sells a complete kit to install the Midland setup for a little over 1K (not including the special PB pedal).

You are going to need FORD MC PART NO C9AZ 2140-D or an outside vendor supply (RAYBESTOS and CENTRIC being quality).


It's application(s) are 1967 to 1971 model years and should have (aftermarket) PRV (Residual Pressure Valves) in both brake line outlet ports. FORD eliminated the RPV on the 1972 model year run and went to wheel cylinder cup expanders to perform the same function.


Yes, you will need a PROPORTION VALVE with DISC/DRUM. Look for adjustable.

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I'm also looking into a master cylinder upgrade to go along with Granada front disc brakes.  ABS had mixed reviews in older posts that I found.  So far I haven't found any recent reviews on ABS.

Would something like this work?  https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NMCM2165  Mustang / Granada master cylinder.


Maybe a smaller diameter booster that doesn't require the offset mounting bracket to clear the valve cover?
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBB5473205  Described as 7.42 inch dual diaphragm booster for a Pinto.

Add a proportioning valve?