Hey fellas, long time no see. 
So I finally got fed up with worrying about going dead out on the road, not being able to be jumped, and just essentially the low cranking and difficulty starting due to that. So I finally got the conversion kit from Vintage Auto Garage, got the original looking Alternator generator shell and everything because while I'm doing this I do want to look as original as possible still.

I went ahead and took off all the wound electrical tape I'd put on years ago to take a look at my wiring. I thought it might be a good idea to post pictures here to see if you guys think anything here looks wonky or non-factory under the hood. Obviously I don't know the full history of the car or what might have been rewired. 




Also I'm curious about this connector here, what I suppose is the antique predecessor to the Molex connector of today. Some of the wires on this thing look pretty crusty and some are even missing insulation where they go into the connector here. I'm curious how these connectors work and how one goes about pulling the wires out so they can be repaired and reinserted. It doesn't look like they're pressed in or anything.



Also do you think this might be a good location for the 120V main-feed fuse? Just above the heater vent? (btw yeah I just noticed the area of insulation missing now that Im looking at the picture)

I would highly suggest you replace your wiring harness. Cracked insulation and the deteriorated condition of your wiring will only lead to shorts and subsequent fires... even if you win this gamble, there will be headaches down the road chasing faulty grounds. 

I went this route on my 1955 Ford Fairlane Club Sedan: https://www.hotrodreverend.com/post/2017/09/30/55-ford-fairlane-restoration-blog-part-18

The connector in your uploaded photo - those are all bullet terminals, just pull them straight out of the connector.

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

I’m with Daniel. I’ve seen too many failures with 50 year old wiring. Rebel’s good, Ron Francis, American Autowire, just to name a few.

When I redid the bird, I kept those junction blocks in your picture. You can still buy the bullet terminals, but there’s a couple sizes if I remember, watch that.

If your switches are still good, the 6 volt ones are good for more amps than the 12v, so just clean them up and reuse them. I also like to make a couple grounding points (under dash, trunk, under hood) and tie them back to the battery. Eliminates the problem of bad grounds between dirty, rusty body panels.

It looks overwhelming at first, but with some forethought a good kit will move you thru it. And don’t forget a ballast resistor and the proper starter solenoid going to the points for starting.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

I bought a 55 BIRD in 1970 I think it was. Beautiful car and had both tops.

Didn't take long for me to shake it due to the 6V SYSTEM, wouldn't get out of it's way (LOM - SINGLE RANGE TRANS) and burnt the hell out of my butt (mufflers right under seat).

This was the MUSCLE CAR DAYS and this just didn't cut it.

If I had kept it (and my 67 GT-500), I would be sitting pretty today. Who figured?

Another way around it - 


"2-6 volt batteries in parallel gives you 6 volt with double the amps.
2-6 volt batteries in series gives you 12 volt.
He converted over to a 12volt system generator/alternator doesn't matter which.
He then tapped 6 volt from just 1 battery to power any and all the 6 volt components.
A separate fuse panel for 6volt.
Took 12 volt off both batteries to power any and all 12 volt components.
A separate fuse panel for 12volt.
No special batteries,charging system, regulators, shunts, resistors, etc, etc, etc.
Just stock off the shelf stuff.
Yes there are 2 different voltages running through the car so check voltage on any wire before you add or change wiring.
This is no different than wiring in your house with 120/ 240 volt.
No the 2 voltages do not interfere with each other or cause any other problems." 

SOURCE -
https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum/your-studebaker-forum/tech-talk/63104-another-6v-to-12v-conversion


Also, that CONV ALT is a DELCO ONE WIRE most likely. Research the benefit(s) of wiring it as a THREE WIRE.

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I inherited my 55 Tbird from my dad, who complained of hard starting, particularly after the engine had reached normal operating temperature, and he asked me to convert it to 12v and install a Casco high-volume water pump & 170-degree thermostat. When converting it to 12v, I followed the instructions posted by Gil Baumgartner on CTCI Gil's Garage. After converting the Tbird to 12v, my dad said that it had never started so easily. He was happy with the conversion, but he only got to drive the car to his local donut shop a few more times before Alzheimer's got him. As far as overheating went, it needed more than a Casco water pump and thermostat. Although the original radiator (date coded December, 54) didn't leak, I could look inside the tank and see that the core was rotten. 

A single Group 56 12v battery was used for the 12v conversion, and the original battery tray was retained. 

Assuming you are still running points within the distributor, then be sure to put a resistor in the ‘switch on’ power line going to the coil from the ignition switch when converting the vehicle from 6V to 12V.  The breaker points in the distributor are not happy with a full 12 volts except only for starting purposes.  If attempting to replicate what was done with the 1956 and newer Fords, you will need a starter solenoid with both a start and ignition terminal.  Your pictured solenoid only shows the start terminal. The addition of an ignition terminal allows for a specific 12-volt line going to the coil that bypasses the resistor just for starting purposes.
 

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Ted - regarding the picture you posted of the solenoid (and which I have seen before) the starter cable  is connected to the right side and the battery is connected to the left side.  I have mine reversed and all my fords have the same. They have operated great for years like that. And I have seen basically the same picture with them reversed from your picture (the way I have mine.  . Even the TBird Electrical Assembly Manual shows the way I have it.   Does it make a difference ?





54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Well, if you don't mind me interrupting ...

I see nothing wrong with it but then again have never seen it done.

The BAT (1954 FORD) is at the RS core support and the relay is on the RS apron. The starter cable runs to the starter on the right frame rail. It doesn't change the electrical flow (IMO), but would look odd I would think. 

No one has called you on it? Is the BIRD wired the same?

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All my early Fords has the starter solenoid attached to the vehicle in a ‘hanging down’ position which puts the ‘S’ terminal on the battery side of the solenoid.  It’s also the battery side of the solenoid that the ‘positive’ battery cable hooks to with the starter cable then connecting to the starter side of the solenoid. With the battery located at the front of the vehicle, this keeps the two cables from crisscrossing each other while also minimizing the lengths of the cables.

While it likely does not make a difference which side of the solenoid the battery and starter cables are hooked to, the starter cable is generally hooked to the starter side of the solenoid.  While probably not in the original design, the ‘S’ terminal being on the battery side does make it easier to bump over or start the engine by just placing a screwdriver across the ‘S’ terminal and the battery input terminal.

Never paid attention to the wire routing on the Thunderbirds with the rear mounted batteries so there may be some differences there.  Maybe some more of you with Thunderbirds can chime in regarding both the solenoid position and the cable routing.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

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