The thing is I didn't touch the wires for the lights, the only thing I did was install a new flasher. It's literally the two wires off the old one and two onto the new one. : o
I tested it with the old bulb (didn't burn out hmm) and it's doing the same thing, so yeah it's not the bulb..damn.The kit I got from Vintage Auto Garage gave me this flasher, said to not use the P tab if not needed but that it should work:
https://truck.upauto.com/led-flasher-12v-3-terminal-90651
But this is all I did, so I'm confused why it's not working right:
NOTE: yes I did connect the ground wire on the flasher and verified it's a good ground.

It looks like you got the wires at the bulbs reversed .  Switch wires and see what happens.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

I'm just about finished with the conversion, I ran into a snag with the turn-signal and tail-light bulbs. The bulb used are 1154s double-filament bulbs that I still see on the shelves today at the autoparts store. I just picked up 2 2-packs from the store and put them in my car. I seems like by default the bulbs are shining the brights when the running lights should be on (like you have the brakes held down) and the blinkers do nothing. At first I thought I wired my new flasher wrong, but it was clicking and the indicators were flashing on the dash.
I pulled the front blinker bulb out and flipped it over and stuck it in and then the blinker worked, but of course the bulb wont stay in that way because the little nubs on the sides are keyed. What gives, are the newer 1154s wired in reverse compared to the older ones? Anyone else run into this issue?

I believe you, I’m just surprised.


miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

My windows are much faster than the power windows on my 2015 Toyota Rav4 and my 2017 Ram 1500, faster than any other vehicle I have owned that was equipped with power windows. Gil Baumgartner mentioned this as well on CTCI Gil's Garage. 

I’ve been running my 6 volt seat motors on 12 volts for 25 years. They got cleaned and lubed, and I don’t run them for a long time. Typical forward and back
to deal with the soft top, up to clean the carpet. No problems.

I’m surprised about your power windows, mine are slow motion compared to my modern cars. And they are all rebuilt, new rollers, glass, liners, etc. They work smooth, but not fast let alone dangerous. Of course with me driving the least of your worries are the windows.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

If your power seat moves intermittently, the tracks probably are gummed up with old grease; it's common. When I removed my seat to be reupholstered, I had to use a rubber mallet to move the tracks to expose a screw that needed to be removed in order to separate the seat base from the tracks. Although no damage was done, using a rubber mallet shouldn't have been necessary. This same problem can/will eventually cause the seat motors to fail. I have since converted the power seat to manual.

Hopefully you don't have power windows as well (I wish I didn't). They close dangerously fast on 12v, which could cause injury to an unsuspecting passenger or damage the windows. 

A friend of a friend used an Uxcell Power Converter (12v/24v to 6v, $25.79 on Amazon) and mounted it to the firewall inside the engine compartment. Look for the heavy-gauge yellow wire. 

What are your thoughts on the power seat motor? It runs pretty intermittently and for short little movements, does it need a 12v reducer since it's a 6v motor or do you think it'll be okay? I know they say the 6v starter motor is fine after the conversion and doesn't need a step-down. If you suggest putting a reducer on it, anyone know what color wire powers the power seats? I'd imagine it's ran off the ACC term on the ignition. 
 

I can see how that makes sense, one less wire in the entire run if you daisychain them.

I believe that Ford Dearborn is correct. I looked at a diagram on another forum, and it shows black/w green wire between fuel & temperature gauges. I have a reproduction 55-57 Tbird wiring manual, but there's just too much going on to see clearly. On the opposite end, the black/w green stripe wire should connect to ACC post on the ignition switch. The yellow wire goes to the fuel-gauge sender in the tank.