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I went ahead and got the Pertronix system with my kit, figured I might as well go all the way with the modernization. But they did give me a new solenoid with both connectors too.
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You guys have any idea why there are two signal wires crimped together going into the fuel-gauge? It doesn't show it wired like that in the typical wiring diagram. 
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Power in to the fuel guage, and then out to the water temp? IIRC, the same hot feed goes to both gauges and the oil pressure and gen warning lights. Maybe something else, too. Been a long time since I rewired one.
miker 55 bird, 32 cabrio F code Kent, WA Tucson, AZ
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I don't have '55 Ford wiring diagrams but the terminal with two wires is probably a 6V common feed shared with the temperature gauge.
64F100 57FAIRLANE500
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I believe that Ford Dearborn is correct. I looked at a diagram on another forum, and it shows black/w green wire between fuel & temperature gauges. I have a reproduction 55-57 Tbird wiring manual, but there's just too much going on to see clearly. On the opposite end, the black/w green stripe wire should connect to ACC post on the ignition switch. The yellow wire goes to the fuel-gauge sender in the tank.
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I can see how that makes sense, one less wire in the entire run if you daisychain them.
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What are your thoughts on the power seat motor? It runs pretty intermittently and for short little movements, does it need a 12v reducer since it's a 6v motor or do you think it'll be okay? I know they say the 6v starter motor is fine after the conversion and doesn't need a step-down. If you suggest putting a reducer on it, anyone know what color wire powers the power seats? I'd imagine it's ran off the ACC term on the ignition.
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If your power seat moves intermittently, the tracks probably are gummed up with old grease; it's common. When I removed my seat to be reupholstered, I had to use a rubber mallet to move the tracks to expose a screw that needed to be removed in order to separate the seat base from the tracks. Although no damage was done, using a rubber mallet shouldn't have been necessary. This same problem can/will eventually cause the seat motors to fail. I have since converted the power seat to manual.
Hopefully you don't have power windows as well (I wish I didn't). They close dangerously fast on 12v, which could cause injury to an unsuspecting passenger or damage the windows.
A friend of a friend used an Uxcell Power Converter (12v/24v to 6v, $25.79 on Amazon) and mounted it to the firewall inside the engine compartment. Look for the heavy-gauge yellow wire.
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I’ve been running my 6 volt seat motors on 12 volts for 25 years. They got cleaned and lubed, and I don’t run them for a long time. Typical forward and back to deal with the soft top, up to clean the carpet. No problems.
I’m surprised about your power windows, mine are slow motion compared to my modern cars. And they are all rebuilt, new rollers, glass, liners, etc. They work smooth, but not fast let alone dangerous. Of course with me driving the least of your worries are the windows.
miker 55 bird, 32 cabrio F code Kent, WA Tucson, AZ
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My windows are much faster than the power windows on my 2015 Toyota Rav4 and my 2017 Ram 1500, faster than any other vehicle I have owned that was equipped with power windows. Gil Baumgartner mentioned this as well on CTCI Gil's Garage.
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