I recently replaced  all brake shoes, and wheel cylinders on my 56 Victoria with the original single master cylinder and drum brakes. I adjusted each wheel by backing off each star adjuster 9 clicks after the wheel  would not spin by hand, leaving no drag at all. A test drive revealed a pull to the right on braking. I then adjusted the left front out by 4 clicks and that seemed to even it out.  My question is: Does one need to break in new brake shoes before you can lock up the brakes on a hard stop. The factory service manual advises strongly not to do severe braking for the first 100 miles but I feel like I have to push rather hard on the pedal to stop the car quickly and would have to nearly stand on the brake pedal to lock them up. By the way, I did not have the drums turned as they did not appear to be badly scored. I have more that half a pedal apon engagement and 2 quick pumps gives a little more.

Most important thing is the arc of the shoes match the drum. And “arc” is almost a lost art. So you may be wearing the high spots in if you did check that.

The other thing I’ve seen, more on disc than drums, is a very hard material. Lifetime warranty, never wear out. Most people with power brakes don’t notice the difference.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

I think you are right about the shoes needing to be arched. Last time I put brake shoes on this car I let them wear in for several months and then re adjusted them . Braking was much better. I don't think anyone in Tulsa would re arch brake shoes.

Check around shops that specialize in brakes but stay away from the corporate shops they generally do not have the age of experience required to answer your question. Smaller local shops may help. They may know of a shop that still can re-arch shoes. Used to be done anytime drum brakes were installed.

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

I am guessing that back then the guy who arched the brake shoes also used a brake shoe riveter to rivet on new linings. My shoes are bonded.

BURNISHING NEW BRAKE MATERIALS - https://www.wagnerbrake.com/technical/technical-tips/break-in.html

Usually the drums are cut to the new shoes diameter(s) making them true and rid them any old material residue(s) allowing full contact with the drum. If not, it is going to take time for the new shoes to seat to the drum (circumference). During that seating period you may have to make several service adjustments.

To adjust shoes - 

Run shoes up to full drum contact with the drum. Back off until you can spin the wheels about three quarters of a turn.

Apply brake pedal (to center the brake shoes). Adjust tight again and back off until the drag gives you about three quarters of a turn with a hard spin. Adjust parking brake.

Now all of this is considering a good hydraulic system, a good quality lining (which is hard to find in a box store) and good brake show hardware.

Installing self-adjuster kits will alleviate the constant adjusting procedure and give longer wear.

If you run a finger into the MC reservoir hitting bottom, what if anything comes out on your finger?

____________________________

That part is true back when shops actually rebuilt the brake shoes but the re-arching continued for many years after that ended. You did give me a thought though, check for restoration shops in your area they may have a source that replaces brake shoes and may be able to re-arch them.



Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Quick Google search found this one.   https://www.brakematerialsandparts.com/brake-relining

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

https://www.google.com/search?q=brake+shoe+relining+near+me&sca_esv=db9c56f3b10e342d&hl=en&sxsrf=AE3TifPEUc7rYbnLWV_L2D-7ynYxveMsoA%3A1751391131562&ei=mxtkaMyBIsef5NoP55yIsAE&oq=brake+sh&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiCGJyYWtlIHNoKgIIADIKECMYgAQYJxiKBTIOEAAYgAQYkQIYsQMYigUyCxAAGIAEGJECGIoFMgsQABiABBiRAhiKBTILEAAYgAQYkQIYigUyBRAAGIAEMgUQABiABDIFEAAYgAQyBRAAGIAEMgUQABiABEiGI1AAWJYUcAB4AZABAJgBxwOgAb0IqgEHNi4xLjQtMbgBAcgBAPgBAZgCCKACignCAgQQIxgnwgILEC4YgAQYsQMYgwHCAg4QABiABBixAxiDARiKBcICERAuGIAEGLEDGNEDGIMBGMcBwgIKEAAYgAQYQxiKBcICDhAAGIAEGJECGMkDGIoFwgILEAAYgAQYkgMYigXCAg0QABiABBixAxhDGIoFwgIIEAAYgAQYsQOYAwCSBwc1LjIuNC0xoAfISrIHBzUuMi40LTG4B4oJwgcFMi01LjPIB0I&sclient=gws-wiz-serp#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:401fdd60,vid:iJPSO-7E_4A,st:0



Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

I have to laugh about that recommendation re: ‘no severe braking’. Like you have a choice when that deer darts out in front of you!😁
’Arcing’ shoe linings was common back when labor was cheaper than parts. Original drums on old/high mileage cars were likely turned several times, thus needing shoes with extra tall linings (no longer available). In today’s reversed economy, with truly high quality replacement drums finally available, it may not be worth the effort. NOS drums & asbestos shoes were often a perfect fit, thus breaking in quickly.
BTW: I am perpetually confused re: whether to loosen, or tighten a brake depending on the direction of steering pull. Also, front vs. rear (?).

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA