After watching the sand paper video above I think I'll check the fit on my shoes. I'm running all drums and even with them adjusted right I've never been happy on the dragstrip shut down lanes. I usually go all the way to the last turn out. And no I have decided against going with disc's in the front. I had a setup and sold it. Around town the car stops well with a good solid pedal its just from high speed that it worries me. Maybe that's normal but I don't remember having that problem with my 57 Fairlane.



Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

I have to laugh about that recommendation re: ‘no severe braking’. Like you have a choice when that deer darts out in front of you!😁
’Arcing’ shoe linings was common back when labor was cheaper than parts. Original drums on old/high mileage cars were likely turned several times, thus needing shoes with extra tall linings (no longer available). In today’s reversed economy, with truly high quality replacement drums finally available, it may not be worth the effort. NOS drums & asbestos shoes were often a perfect fit, thus breaking in quickly.
BTW: I am perpetually confused re: whether to loosen, or tighten a brake depending on the direction of steering pull. Also, front vs. rear (?).

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

https://www.google.com/search?q=brake+shoe+relining+near+me&sca_esv=db9c56f3b10e342d&hl=en&sxsrf=AE3TifPEUc7rYbnLWV_L2D-7ynYxveMsoA%3A1751391131562&ei=mxtkaMyBIsef5NoP55yIsAE&oq=brake+sh&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiCGJyYWtlIHNoKgIIADIKECMYgAQYJxiKBTIOEAAYgAQYkQIYsQMYigUyCxAAGIAEGJECGIoFMgsQABiABBiRAhiKBTILEAAYgAQYkQIYigUyBRAAGIAEMgUQABiABDIFEAAYgAQyBRAAGIAEMgUQABiABEiGI1AAWJYUcAB4AZABAJgBxwOgAb0IqgEHNi4xLjQtMbgBAcgBAPgBAZgCCKACignCAgQQIxgnwgILEC4YgAQYsQMYgwHCAg4QABiABBixAxiDARiKBcICERAuGIAEGLEDGNEDGIMBGMcBwgIKEAAYgAQYQxiKBcICDhAAGIAEGJECGMkDGIoFwgILEAAYgAQYkgMYigXCAg0QABiABBixAxhDGIoFwgIIEAAYgAQYsQOYAwCSBwc1LjIuNC0xoAfISrIHBzUuMi40LTG4B4oJwgcFMi01LjPIB0I&sclient=gws-wiz-serp#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:401fdd60,vid:iJPSO-7E_4A,st:0



Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Quick Google search found this one.   https://www.brakematerialsandparts.com/brake-relining

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

That part is true back when shops actually rebuilt the brake shoes but the re-arching continued for many years after that ended. You did give me a thought though, check for restoration shops in your area they may have a source that replaces brake shoes and may be able to re-arch them.



Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

BURNISHING NEW BRAKE MATERIALS - https://www.wagnerbrake.com/technical/technical-tips/break-in.html

Usually the drums are cut to the new shoes diameter(s) making them true and rid them any old material residue(s) allowing full contact with the drum. If not, it is going to take time for the new shoes to seat to the drum (circumference). During that seating period you may have to make several service adjustments.

To adjust shoes - 

Run shoes up to full drum contact with the drum. Back off until you can spin the wheels about three quarters of a turn.

Apply brake pedal (to center the brake shoes). Adjust tight again and back off until the drag gives you about three quarters of a turn with a hard spin. Adjust parking brake.

Now all of this is considering a good hydraulic system, a good quality lining (which is hard to find in a box store) and good brake show hardware.

Installing self-adjuster kits will alleviate the constant adjusting procedure and give longer wear.

If you run a finger into the MC reservoir hitting bottom, what if anything comes out on your finger?

____________________________

I am guessing that back then the guy who arched the brake shoes also used a brake shoe riveter to rivet on new linings. My shoes are bonded.

Check around shops that specialize in brakes but stay away from the corporate shops they generally do not have the age of experience required to answer your question. Smaller local shops may help. They may know of a shop that still can re-arch shoes. Used to be done anytime drum brakes were installed.

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

I think you are right about the shoes needing to be arched. Last time I put brake shoes on this car I let them wear in for several months and then re adjusted them . Braking was much better. I don't think anyone in Tulsa would re arch brake shoes.

Most important thing is the arc of the shoes match the drum. And “arc” is almost a lost art. So you may be wearing the high spots in if you did check that.

The other thing I’ve seen, more on disc than drums, is a very hard material. Lifetime warranty, never wear out. Most people with power brakes don’t notice the difference.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ