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Drum Brake Advice

Posted By geo56 Last Month
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geo56
Posted 3 Weeks Ago
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Yes I did and cleaned and packed bearings.
ian57tbird
Posted 3 Weeks Ago
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Leaking wheel cylinder hasn't been mentioned as a possible cause for brake pulling.
geo56
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I replaced all wheel cylinders with new. Of course, being made in China are known to leak out of the box. I took a 40 mile round trip today and felt the brake pedal distance from the floor was inconsistant, ranging from halfway to the floor to a little less. Two quick pumps and you get nearly a full pedal.  I think I might need to bleed the system one more time and maybe adjust the shoes out a bit. First I will check fluid level in master cylinder , which was full. If it is low, I will suspect a leaking wheel cylinder. I saw on a u tube video where a guy had a brand new wheel cylinder leak out of the box. He took it apart and honed it and put it back together and it was fine. 
DANIEL TINDER
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KULTULZ (7/3/2025)
High quality bonded linings last longer, simply because rivets will eventually score the drums as the linings wear away, ...


That is the reason for annual brake inspections (service) and STATE INSPECTIONS ...

You don't allow the lining to wear to the rivets.

So a bonded shoe will not damage a drum surface if the lining wears, fails or falls off? If wear is to the rivets, it needs to be serviced.

WANNA SEE A GOOD CAR WRECK - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5oO226PgSkg&themeRefresh=1 


If there has to be a wreck, it should happen to anyone who puts a scruby motor in a Mercury!


6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
KULTULZ
Posted 3 Weeks Ago
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I replaced all wheel cylinders with new. Of course, being made in China are known to leak out of the box.


I began to notice wheel cylinders becoming junk about the early eighties. They would come through with metric bleeder screws. And I only put on top line, BENDIX or WAGNER at the least (jobber parts - not OEM).

The best thing to do now (IMO) is if you have original OEM parts (MC - WHEEL CYL - VALVES) is to send them out to be sleeved. With a quality kit (count on it) and frequent fluid services, they should last quite a log time.

BOOSTER - rebuild the original.

If you have the OEM brake shoes, send them out to be re-lined. You can choose your lining materials for whatever driving style you desire. A brake drum can be relined and if the shoes are done at the same time, will arc-grind them to match the drum.

Carbs, generators, alternators, WP, etc. Once that part is cored or tossed, you are in for trouble.

But there are quality parts coming out of CHINA, CENTRIC and RAYBESTOS being two.

Even FORD (notice I did not say FOMOCO) manufactures in CHINA. It is just too costly to do it here.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/711b05d9-639e-4141-9bec-881c.png



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KULTULZ
Posted 3 Weeks Ago
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If there has to be a wreck, it should happen to anyone who puts a scruby motor in a Mercury!


Ain't that something?

Most likely also had GM front disc on it also with the low drag D154 calipers that won't pump up.

Don't get me wrong. I respect all car brands and there is the competition value. GM, MOPAR and AMC made some damn nice street cars in the day.

Some years ago, I was almost led astray by scrub TPI, but was saved by inner fortitude and frequent BUDWEISER flushes ... BigGrin



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DANIEL TINDER
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Diehard 50s FoMoCo enthusiast thru & thru, but still, have to respect the styling out of Harley Earl’s shop back then.  If ever ‘gun-to-head’ forced to drive GM, then give me a ‘56 Vette.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
FORD DEARBORN
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I have found more often than not, the machined seat does not match the cone shape of the bleeder screw. The seat being rough and often not perpendicular with the threaded bore. ALSO, I disassemble every wheel cylinder and clean out the gritty machining/honing dirt. Use a clean container and fresh solvent (alcohol) and you will be surprised how much dirt is left in these and other parts before the manufacturer assembles them. Just my experience through at least the last 15 years. 

64F100 57FAIRLANE500
MoonShadow
Posted 3 Weeks Ago
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Back around 1971 I thought it was time to get rid of my 1969 Ford Fairland Cobra 428SCJ drag pack car. A guy was interested in trading me straight up for a nice looking 1957 Corvette. Thank god he let me drive it first. What an underpowered, cramped and buckboard riding car. I was glad to get the chance to finally drive one and knew then I would never buy one.

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire
KULTULZ
Posted 2 Weeks Ago
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Years ago I drove a friends 58 VETTE 283 8V 4S. Sorry, I just didn't see the fascination. TUPPERWARE.

I have always been attracted to PONTIACS (I have received therapy since).

A 57 PONTIAC is a looker (to me) but if I had to go over (transition) it would be a 65/66 GOAT.

After having a 67 GT-500, the rest is junk (IMO).


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