I can understand pressurized rocker shafts (along with slots) to prevent rocker arm and shaft wear (hopefully).

What I don't understand is completely blocking off the oilers at the end of the shafts meant for timing chain and distributor drive lubrication.

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Detergent engine oils were being introduced in the fifties. Prior to that, non detergent was used usually without a filter. It had no detergents/dispersants and when returned to the pan, most trash/carbon would fall out of suspension and remain in the pan. The service interval on non-detergent was also more frequent.

Inadequate crankcase ventilation (ROAD DRAFT) only compounded the situation. If you notice on FORD NEW CAR OPTIONS (1950's FORD) a 'FULL-FLOW FILTER' was offered but there was an additional charge. So rule of thumb was to use non-detergent w/o filtering (no use as there was no dispersant package) and detergent with an oil filter.

I remember (as a young and aspiring 're-fueling technician') that most customers had no concern for quality and just said throw the cheapest thing in (oil change on the front). There were premium oils available.

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According to Howard's Cams, their Y-block cam's center journal oil groove is .020 deep (I've not measured it). I also purchased Schumann's Durabond cam bearings/w the outside groove to which Ted Referred. I intend to use 10w-40 conventional oil. My oil pump is a rebuilt gerotor. I'm considering having the rocker assemblies pressurized. Based on what I've just read, it sounds like it isn't necessary. Any other suggestions/recommendations?

I agree with Ted.  I have four cars, all with  low mileage or rebuilt  Y-Blocks.  I have had these same cars for nearly 40 years and have always run them on modern multi-grade detergent oil.    I have two early 60's 292's, a 239 and a 256.  They are all "bone stock" with no modification to the lubrication system and  none of them have ever had an oiling problem.  Back in the 50's the oil available was non-detergent and I think that it was that type of oil which clogged the passages and resulted in poor oiling to the rockers.  With a clean engine following a rebuild, and the use of multi-grade detergent oil, the original lubrication system should work just fine.

THANX! TED for the explanation.

I agree with lack of proper service intervals and poor quality lubricants.

You think you are saving money but you are actually not.

Interesting on the MEL.

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In reference to the above pictures, there are those engine builders out there that do not perform the necessary research into a perceived problem before just applying a ‘shoot from the hip’ fix.  The problem with the internet and social media is that all these fixes get posted by people who are not experts in their respective fields, but these fixes get accepted and approved by the masses.

Having pulled apart several Ford Y engines with over 300K miles on them and still having the stock oiling systems doing their job, I question some of those fixes that involves adding extra oil lines.  Even my own ’55 Ford with well over 300K miles on it still has the stock oiling system and is still doing as Ford originally intended.  The key to that one is scheduled oil changes along with what I would call a quality 10W-40 oil.  That engine has been on the same 10W-40 since it was first purchased in late 1954.

The latest crop of soft cam bearings does bring to the forefront the issue of the center cam journal meshing into the bearing and shutting off the top end oil supply.  There are several fixes for that without going to the trouble of rerouting the oil thru auxiliary oil lines.  Some of those fixes include machining the camshaft center groove deeper, using a cam bearing with the oil groove on the O.D. of the bearing, or simply adding another groove in the block behind the center cam bearing that allows oil to flow to the top end without having to circumvent the existing groove in the camshaft.

Here are some pictures where additional oil lines are routed to each lifter (tappet) and in this case, special lifters were made in which to pass that rerouted oil thru them.  This one was not mine as I’ve only gone so far as to simply put a groove in the block behind the cam bearing which suffices for the majority of Y builds that I do regardless of if they are simply a stock, street performance, or a racing engine.  This takes care of the problem with using the softer babbit cam bearings.
 

 

 

With all that being said, here’s are pictures of what I had to do recently for a M-E-L engine.  This plumbing was necessary to provide oil to the top end of the engine as a result of eliminating the oil going to the lifters.  Eliminating the oil to the lifters did away with 16 oil leaks in the system.  What is not seen in the pictures are the four plugs in various passages to keep the oil flow from reaching the lifters.  The 1961 M-E-L block in this case did not cooperate in making the oil galleys larger in diameter so the alternate fix is an effort to provide more oil to the main and rod bearings. This engine is using a solid roller camshaft so oil to the lifters is not a necessary requirement.
 

 

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

BTT

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TED,

I remember reading your thoughts and displeasure on the below lube designs. I would think it would solve the problem(s).

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Here’s the link to a past thread that provides links to various threads or discussions on the subject.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost153971.aspx

If simply looking for the thread regarding ‘slotting’ the oil holes in the rocker arm shafts, here is the link to that one.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost7000.aspx

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

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