thanks pcmenton;for oil filters,i use motorcraft only;i've had trouble with check valves leaking down on fram and puralators filters;never had an issue using ford factory parts;i was concerned over synthetic oils because about 25 years ago i tryed a synthetic in another type engine and ruined it in short order due to plugged oil passages and did not want a similer problem although i realize oils are mush better nowadays

There are two types of ZDDP, one is for diesels and is found in diesel engine oils, and the other is for autos/gas engines.



STP oil treatment for 4 cylinder engines is the best bet.



I use Mobil1 synthetic motor oils in my newer cars, but I'll be using the blended Mobil motor oil in my y-block. The mineral oil based oil have unique detergent characteristics that's desirable and the synthetic oil has lubricating properties that's desirable. But the oil change intervals will be higher with mineral based oils.



Next question; what oil filter. I'd use MotorCraft or Purolator PurOne or Wix/NAPA; best price for the performance. I would not use Fram, even on a lawnmower.

Best regards,



Paul Menten

Meridian, Idaho

thanks ted,i appreciate the info.i'm going to try it out

The same zinc / phosphorus content rules apply to synthetic oils as conventional due to the flat tappet camshaft design in the Y.  As long as the rings are already seated, then synthetic oil in itself will not be a problem.  If you have the potential for an oil leak though, synthetic oil will typically find it whereas the conventional oil may not have been leaking.  In those cases, just switch back to conventional oil.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

i was actually more interested in the fact that this oil is a full synthetic and if anyone had experienced any problems using a synthetic oil in a y-block.i plan on trying it out for the hack of it because synthetics seem help engines last for a longer period of time and this particular oil seems to be a good blend.any info would be greatly appreciated

Here’s the link again.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic9285-3-1.aspx

And here’s the text:

The latest API SM classification now means some variability in the amount of zinc and here are the rules as I interpret them. If the oil is 30W or less (ie. 5W-20, 10W-30), the zinc/phosphorus content is reduced to 800ppm max. But if the oil is greater than 30W (10W-40, 20W-50), the zinc levels remain at 1200-1400ppm. If the oil is classified as SM but has “Racing” or “High Mileage” on the label, then it will have the 1200-1400ppm zinc regardless of the oil weight or viscosity.

When in doubt about the amount of zinc in an oil, just pull up the manufacturers MSDS or technical sheet and you can pull the actual zinc/phosphorus content information out of that.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Ted,

           Add to the comments what SAE specs to AVOID. The ones with the reduced zinc content.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

i'd been checking around for a good blend of oil and contacted castrol and they recommended castrol syntec 20w-50 full synthetic.on the container it's recommended for classic cars and i'm told it it contains zinc @1200ppm.i was wondering if anyone had any experience with this oil.i found it readily available at pep boys and auto zone,but at $6.50 a bottle i would like to make sure it will work with my y-block without creating a problem.

Thanks Ted!



I knew it would be something simple!



Cheers,


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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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This post was created using OpenSuSE Linux x64 and Firefox

Rick.  Thanks for the additional info.  Regarding the posting of links, the pasted in links need a space behind them in order for them to work.  Using a hard return without the space keeps the link from working.  I believe this will fix you up.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)