By comrade-paul - 17 Years Ago
|
Having now completed 1000 miles in my Mercury since the rebuild in August, I plan to change the oil. American oils are not that easy to come by here in England. I used 20/50 mineral classsic motor oil to do the first 1000 miles. Whats the best oil. I can possibly get our local US parts man to obtain the right stuff. By the way, the first 1000 miles passed without incident.     
|
By speedpro56 - 17 Years Ago
|
The 20/50 you're using now should still be ok as long as it's rated for diesel engines too, it should have the zinc needed for the flat tappet lifters.
|
By paul2748 - 17 Years Ago
|
Shell Rotella T 15-40 (Diesel oil)
|
By DANIEL TINDER - 17 Years Ago
|
Data Re: new Rotella formular.
http://www.ctci.org/membership/Gilsgarage/docs/3_Rotella.pdf
|
By comrade-paul - 17 Years Ago
|
Thanks. I didn't realise that diesel oils contain the required zinc.
|
By LordMrFord - 17 Years Ago
|
20/50 sounds pretty thick, atleast when become sub-zero temp.
|
By paul2748 - 17 Years Ago
|
Some additional oils
Chevron Delo 400 15w40
Castrol GTX Diesel 14w40
You may not have the oil problem we have over here as far a zinc is concerned. As one response mentioned, any oil with a SJ or less API rating is good, 20/50 is good. Stay away from any oil that says for gasoline engines only. These are usually 5w15 or the like, designed for more modern roller type engines.
|
By 2DRHRDTP57 - 17 Years Ago
|
Anyone used a Caterpillar Diesel Engine Oil???? I work at a Cat dealer so would be easy for me.
|
By YukonCor55 - 17 Years Ago
|
I don't put a great deal of mileage on any of my Y-Blocks and as a result I only change oil twice per year. I've had very good luck with 4 quarts of good quality 10W40 oil and 1 qt of Lucas oil stabilizer. No rapping, no tapping, very little oil burn. I also add 4 oz of Marvel Mystery oil in the gas tank for every 10 gallons of gas. I can't offer any empirical evidence that it works any better than anything else but none of my engines have blown up yet!!
|
By comrade-paul - 17 Years Ago
|
Thanks guys. I just bought some Comma Classic 20/50 and according to the bloke in the auto parts shop iot is meant for older style engines and includes some anti shearing agent to aid the flat bottomed tappets. Is he lying to me? I can punch fairly hard. 
|
By pegleg - 17 Years Ago
|
Paul, Don't think we have that brand Stateside, I've never seen or heard of it here. What you're looking for is Zinc, or a zinc substitute. Diesel oils have it, some racing oils or additives like Lucas (no, NOT the Prince of Darkness) or STP, also have it or a substitute.
|
By 46yblock - 17 Years Ago
|
I bought 2 cases of round can Chevron 10W40 grade SE,SF recently, not being able to pass up .50 per can. Would it work well in a Y?
|
By pegleg - 17 Years Ago
|
Mike, I think the SE is ok, You can tell by the designation. Or you could if you can remember which is which, and I forgot! They changed the designation after they removed the zinc.
|
By 46yblock - 17 Years Ago
|
Frank, The cans show"SE,SF", apparently a transition grade. They are the round cardboard cans with a top zip seal. Mike
|
By marvsmerc - 17 Years Ago
|
Does anyone use Amsoil 20/50 ? I know its expensive but they advertize it for flat tappets, & older vehicles & state that it has a heavy treatment of Zinc ? There is a distributer in my town that stated all Amsoil oils have zinc in them, but I didn't find this online. They also state to change every 25 g's or one year. What happens to the oil if it is sitting in your engine for a year with no condensation, for example if stored in a heated garage? Thanks, Mike
|
By PF Arcand - 17 Years Ago
|
Comrade Paul: Because the brands in the U.K. don't match up with N. American oils, it's difficult to make a recommendation. However, a question occurs to me, considering the cool climate there, why are you using such heavy viscosity oil in a new rebuilt engine? Are the clearances on the loose side? It seems like it might not be the best decision. However, I could be wrong about this.. others might want to comment.
|
By HT32BSX115 - 17 Years Ago
|
46yblock (9/27/2008) Frank, The cans show"SE,SF", apparently a transition grade. They are the round cardboard cans with a top zip seal.
Mike
That API designation (SE/SF) is an obsolete rating, replaced back in 1988.
Here's an API chart that gives a chronology of the classifications.
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/API.html
Consumer Reports did a widely acclaimed oil test back in the 90's that indicated that 10W40 might not be the best choice for some engines. ( for example, my 1986 Ford 6.9L diesel truck manual instructed "Do Not USE 10W40 as it may cause engine damage") I don't know why Ford recommended against 10W40 for that engine. Maybe early 10w40 oils had a excessive amount of VI improvers.
I use Shell Rotella 5W40 or 15W40 in everything now Because "Wally World" beats everybody in price. (although Schucks/Checker/Kragen will beat them now) (except the airplane.....that gets Aeroshell 100)
I'll also add that since most new engines are "roller" engines, they're getting away with reducing the zddp. That doesn't help us much with our flat tappet Y-blocks. I think we'll be able to get 15W40 oil for older diesel engines for quite some time. I suppose the "snake oil" salesmen will always have an additive ready to suck money out of our wallets.... I'll always be pretty skeptical or their claims unless someone like Crane Cams, Comp, or Isky tests them and warrants their cams with it.......
DON'T USE API SA in ANYTHING.
Cheers,
|
By 2DRHRDTP57 - 17 Years Ago
|
Caterpillar DEO (Diesel Engine Oil) available in 15w40 (and 10W30 in selected countrys) I downloaded this sheet on the Cat oil today at work it is a Gasoline rated SL oil and has 0.146 of zinc which I think = 1460 ppm http://www.cat.com/cda/files/199221/7/pehj0059-02.pdf Our oil lab guy says its good for flat tappet Y blocks, being Cat its available worldwide too for all Y blockers and it comes in 1 Gallon or over here in my paddock 5 litre packs. 15w40 DEO 5 Litre Pack part number 3E9901 or 248 7518 for a 1 US gallon pack http://catmsds.cat.com/MSDSSearch/servlet/cat.cis.ecs.msdsSearch.controller.SearchResultsDisplayServlet?MSDSNO=8962&LANGUAGE_CODE=en_US&searchString=MSDSNO I'm going to give it a run in my rebuild, cheers
|
By HT32BSX115 - 17 Years Ago
|
Recommended Use Caterpillar.
• Cat earthmoving, commercial, marine* and on-highway truck diesel engines
• Low-emission diesel engines including Cat engines with ACERT® Technology
• Heavy-duty diesel engines made by other manufacturers that recommend API CI-4
PLUS, CH-4 or CG-4 category oil (See “Typical Characteristics” on page 2 for
more information)
• Automotive gasoline engines that require API SL category oils
* Excluding 3600, C280, 3126 and 3116 MUI Marine and MaK diesel engines. The 3116 and 3126
MUI Marine diesel engines with closed crankcase ventilation systems should use Cat SAEO™.
I guess you could say it's an SL oil... It's a diesel rated oil that that also happens to meet SL standards (too).
Because it is a CI-4 PLUS rated oil it will have lower zinc than earlier diesel type oils.
I hope no one thinks that Cat actually "makes" this oil using their own secret lab with their own mad scientists !..... They've re-branded Chevron Delo, Mobil Delvac, Shell Rotella or similar 15W40 and/or 5w40 oils into their own marketing network. FORD, GM, IHI, John Deere, VW, Mercury Marine, Volvo, etc, etc, do this and just about every other automotive manufacturer too, as have the oil companies with gasoline, diesel fuel and oil for many years....
They would LOVE for their customers to buy all their oil from them. It's just another profit center.
Cheers,
Rick
(I love Christchurch! been there many times in a USAF C-141 over the years......)
|
By 46yblock - 17 Years Ago
|
Rick, thanks for the chart. Mike
|
By pegleg - 17 Years Ago
|
I am constantly amazed at the sum total of knowledge on this site. Think the oil question's been answered. They knew more than I did Mike!!
|
By HT32BSX115 - 17 Years Ago
|
0*C is not used as the lower limit on all oils. It really depends on the actual rating of the oil 0W, 5W, 10W etc...
5WXX oil for example has a MAX cranking viscosity measured at -30*C (for the low temp)
SAE J300 is the defining document in this area. It's interesting that it's an almost 100 year old standard too.
The latest one I could find was 2004:
http://www.infineum.com/information/api-viscosity-2004.html
Here's a pretty good article on what all that stuff means...
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/article_detail.asp?articleid=171
Cheers,
(anyone know why I cannot seem to post clickable links? or is that disabled on this site?)
|
By HT32BSX115 - 17 Years Ago
|
Thanks Ted!
I knew it would be something simple!
Cheers,
|
By 56fairlanepost - 17 Years Ago
|
i'd been checking around for a good blend of oil and contacted castrol and they recommended castrol syntec 20w-50 full synthetic.on the container it's recommended for classic cars and i'm told it it contains zinc @1200ppm.i was wondering if anyone had any experience with this oil.i found it readily available at pep boys and auto zone,but at $6.50 a bottle i would like to make sure it will work with my y-block without creating a problem.
|
By pegleg - 17 Years Ago
|
Ted, Add to the comments what SAE specs to AVOID. The ones with the reduced zinc content.
|
By 56fairlanepost - 17 Years Ago
|
i was actually more interested in the fact that this oil is a full synthetic and if anyone had experienced any problems using a synthetic oil in a y-block.i plan on trying it out for the hack of it because synthetics seem help engines last for a longer period of time and this particular oil seems to be a good blend.any info would be greatly appreciated
|
By 56fairlanepost - 17 Years Ago
|
thanks ted,i appreciate the info.i'm going to try it out
|
By pcmenten - 17 Years Ago
|
There are two types of ZDDP, one is for diesels and is found in diesel engine oils, and the other is for autos/gas engines.
STP oil treatment for 4 cylinder engines is the best bet.
I use Mobil1 synthetic motor oils in my newer cars, but I'll be using the blended Mobil motor oil in my y-block. The mineral oil based oil have unique detergent characteristics that's desirable and the synthetic oil has lubricating properties that's desirable. But the oil change intervals will be higher with mineral based oils.
Next question; what oil filter. I'd use MotorCraft or Purolator PurOne or Wix/NAPA; best price for the performance. I would not use Fram, even on a lawnmower.
|
By 56fairlanepost - 17 Years Ago
|
thanks pcmenton;for oil filters,i use motorcraft only;i've had trouble with check valves leaking down on fram and puralators filters;never had an issue using ford factory parts;i was concerned over synthetic oils because about 25 years ago i tryed a synthetic in another type engine and ruined it in short order due to plugged oil passages and did not want a similer problem although i realize oils are mush better nowadays
|
By Ted - 17 Years Ago
|
Here’s the link to a previous thread regarding the API classification and how it affects the zinc / phosphorus content of the oil. http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic9285.aspx Not all API rated oils with the ‘SM’ classification are low in zinc/phosphorus. Doing a search for ‘zinc’ on this site will bring up several different discussions regarding oil for the Y.
|
By Ted - 17 Years Ago
|
Seeing as how this thread has gone into detail on oil, I’ll add some additional info that doesn’t get passed along very often. On multi-weight oils, you’ll have an oil with basically two different temperature ratings. For a 10W-40 oil the ‘10W’ refers to the equivalent oil weight of this oil at low temperatures (ie. 32°F or lower) while the ‘40’ refers to the equivalent oil weight or grade at high temperatures (ie. 212°F). On a single weight oil, the weight or grade is rated only at 212°F but is assumed that the viscosity equivalent of the oil is the same grade at 32°F due to not having additives in it to alter the viscosity at various temperatures. A 5W-30 oil will have better oil flow and startup characteristics than a 10W-30 oil due to the 5W-30 weight oil having a reduced viscosity at lower temperatures. This might be a player in the Northern States where the temperatures gets considerably cooler in the winter months but not as much as a player here in Texas on the older vehicles where it rarely gets to the freezing temperatures in my part of the country. For this reason, I typically always recommend a 10W-40 oil for year round use in the older engines as this provides a sufficient viscosity at the higher summer temperatures while also insuring adequate zinc/phosphorus levels even if the oil has the newest SM API rating. The other item to remember on multi-weight oils is that the greater the difference between the low and high temperature ratings, then the greater the propensity for the oil to break down over time and not actually retain its rating. For example, a 5W-30 oil or a 10W-40 oil will break down quicker than a 10W-30 oil. But if the oils are changed out at regular intervals, then this breakdown issue is a non-event regardless of the grade being used.
|
By Ted - 17 Years Ago
|
HT32BSX115 (10/1/2008) anyone know why I cannot seem to post clickable links? or is that disabled on this site?Rick. Thanks for the additional info. Regarding the posting of links, the pasted in links need a space behind them in order for them to work. Using a hard return without the space keeps the link from working. I believe this will fix you up.
|
By Ted - 17 Years Ago
|
pegleg (11/4/2008) Ted, Add to the comments what SAE specs to AVOID. The ones with the reduced zinc content.Here’s the link again. http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic9285-3-1.aspx
And here’s the text: The latest API SM classification now means some variability in the amount of zinc and here are the rules as I interpret them. If the oil is 30W or less (ie. 5W-20, 10W-30), the zinc/phosphorus content is reduced to 800ppm max. But if the oil is greater than 30W (10W-40, 20W-50), the zinc levels remain at 1200-1400ppm. If the oil is classified as SM but has “Racing” or “High Mileage” on the label, then it will have the 1200-1400ppm zinc regardless of the oil weight or viscosity. When in doubt about the amount of zinc in an oil, just pull up the manufacturers MSDS or technical sheet and you can pull the actual zinc/phosphorus content information out of that.
|
By Ted - 17 Years Ago
|
The same zinc / phosphorus content rules apply to synthetic oils as conventional due to the flat tappet camshaft design in the Y. As long as the rings are already seated, then synthetic oil in itself will not be a problem. If you have the potential for an oil leak though, synthetic oil will typically find it whereas the conventional oil may not have been leaking. In those cases, just switch back to conventional oil.
|