0*C is not used as the lower limit on all oils. It really depends on the actual rating of the oil 0W, 5W, 10W etc...

5WXX oil for example has a MAX cranking viscosity measured at -30*C (for the low temp)


SAE J300 is the defining document in this area. It's interesting that it's an almost 100 year old standard too.

The latest one I could find was 2004:

http://www.infineum.com/information/api-viscosity-2004.html

Here's a pretty good article on what all that stuff means...

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/article_detail.asp?articleid=171

Cheers,


(anyone know why I cannot seem to post clickable links? or is that disabled on this site?)




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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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This post was created using OpenSuSE Linux x64 and Firefox

Seeing as how this thread has gone into detail on oil, I’ll add some additional info that doesn’t get passed along very often.

 

On multi-weight oils, you’ll have an oil with basically two different temperature ratings.  For a 10W-40 oil the ‘10W’ refers to the equivalent oil weight of this oil at low temperatures (ie. 32°F or lower) while the ‘40’ refers to the equivalent oil weight or grade at high temperatures (ie. 212°F).  On a single weight oil, the weight or grade is rated only at 212°F but is assumed that the viscosity equivalent of the oil is the same grade at 32°F due to not having additives in it to alter the viscosity at various temperatures.

 

A 5W-30 oil will have better oil flow and startup characteristics than a 10W-30 oil due to the 5W-30 weight oil having a reduced viscosity at lower temperatures.  This might be a player in the Northern States where the temperatures gets considerably cooler in the winter months but not as much as a player here in Texas on the older vehicles where it rarely gets to the freezing temperatures in my part of the country.  For this reason, I typically always recommend a 10W-40 oil for year round use in the older engines as this provides a sufficient viscosity at the higher summer temperatures while also insuring adequate zinc/phosphorus levels even if the oil has the newest SM API rating.

 

The other item to remember on multi-weight oils is that the greater the difference between the low and high temperature ratings, then the greater the propensity for the oil to break down over time and not actually retain its rating.  For example, a 5W-30 oil or a 10W-40 oil will break down quicker than a 10W-30 oil.  But if the oils are changed out at regular intervals, then this breakdown issue is a non-event regardless of the grade being used.

 

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I am constantly amazed at the sum total of knowledge on this site. Think the oil question's been answered. They knew more than I did Mike!!

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Rick, thanks for the chart. 

Mike

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

I guess you could say it's an SL oil... It's a diesel rated oil that that also happens to meet SL standards (too).



Because it is a CI-4 PLUS rated oil it will have lower zinc than earlier diesel type oils.





I hope no one thinks that Cat actually "makes" this oil using their own secret lab with their own mad scientists!..... They've re-branded Chevron Delo, Mobil Delvac, Shell Rotella or similar 15W40 and/or 5w40 oils into their own marketing network. FORD, GM, IHI, John Deere, VW, Mercury Marine, Volvo, etc, etc, do this and just about every other automotive manufacturer too, as have the oil companies with gasoline, diesel fuel and oil for many years....



They would LOVE for their customers to buy all their oil from them. It's just another profit center.





Cheers,





Rick





(I love Christchurch! been there many times in a USAF C-141 over the years......)














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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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This post was created using OpenSuSE Linux x64 and Firefox

Caterpillar DEO (Diesel Engine Oil) available in 15w40 (and 10W30 in selected countrys)

I downloaded this sheet on the Cat oil today at work it is a Gasoline rated SL oil and has 0.146 of zinc which I think = 1460 ppm

http://www.cat.com/cda/files/199221/7/pehj0059-02.pdf

Our oil lab guy says its good for flat tappet Y blocks, being Cat its available worldwide too for all Y blockers and it comes in 1 Gallon or over here in my paddock 5 litre packs.

15w40 DEO 5 Litre Pack part number 3E9901 or 248 7518 for a 1 US gallon pack

http://catmsds.cat.com/MSDSSearch/servlet/cat.cis.ecs.msdsSearch.controller.SearchResultsDisplayServlet?MSDSNO=8962&LANGUAGE_CODE=en_US&searchString=MSDSNO

I'm going to give it a run in my rebuild, cheers

1957 ________________ Ford

\___((_______________))___/

(@)________V__________(@)

[________I_____I_________]

__[__]__ o_______o___[__]___



Y Blocks, The New Flathead!

That API designation (SE/SF) is an obsolete rating, replaced back in 1988.

Here's an API chart that gives a chronology of the classifications.

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/API.html


Consumer Reports did a widely acclaimed oil test back in the 90's that indicated that 10W40 might not be the best choice for some engines. ( for example, my 1986 Ford 6.9L diesel truck manual instructed "Do Not USE 10W40 as it may cause engine damage") I don't know why Ford recommended against 10W40 for that engine. Maybe early 10w40 oils had a excessive amount of VI improvers.

I use Shell Rotella 5W40 or 15W40 in everything now Because "Wally World" beats everybody in price. (although Schucks/Checker/Kragen will beat them now) (except the airplane.....that gets Aeroshell 100)


I'll also add that since most new engines are "roller" engines, they're getting away with reducing the zddp. That doesn't help us much with our flat tappet Y-blocks. I think we'll be able to get 15W40 oil for older diesel engines for quite some time. I suppose the "snake oil" salesmen will always have an additive ready to suck money out of our wallets.... I'll always be pretty skeptical or their claims unless someone like Crane Cams, Comp, or Isky tests them and warrants their cams with it.......

DON'T USE API SA in ANYTHING.


Cheers,







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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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This post was created using OpenSuSE Linux x64 and Firefox

Comrade Paul: Because the brands in the U.K. don't match up with N. American oils, it's difficult to make a recommendation. However, a question occurs to me, considering the cool climate there, why are you using such heavy viscosity oil in a new rebuilt engine? Are the clearances on the loose side? It seems like it might not be the best decision. However, I could be wrong about this.. others might want to comment.


Paul

Does anyone use Amsoil 20/50 ? I know its expensive but they advertize it for flat tappets, & older vehicles & state that it has a heavy treatment of Zinc ? There is a distributer in my town that stated all Amsoil oils have zinc in them, but I didn't find this online. They also state to change every 25 g's or one year. What happens to the oil if it is sitting in your engine for a year with no condensation, for example if stored in a heated garage?     Thanks, Mike  

     

Frank,  The cans show"SE,SF", apparently a transition grade.  They are the round cardboard cans with a top zip seal.

Mike

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.