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Oil. Whats best for a newly rebuilt stock 312 ?

Posted By comrade-paul 17 Years Ago
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46yblock
Posted 17 Years Ago
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Supercharged

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Rick, thanks for the chart. 

Mike

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.


pegleg
Posted 17 Years Ago
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I am constantly amazed at the sum total of knowledge on this site. Think the oil question's been answered. They knew more than I did Mike!!w00t

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 


Ted
Posted 17 Years Ago
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Seeing as how this thread has gone into detail on oil, I’ll add some additional info that doesn’t get passed along very often.

 

On multi-weight oils, you’ll have an oil with basically two different temperature ratings.  For a 10W-40 oil the ‘10W’ refers to the equivalent oil weight of this oil at low temperatures (ie. 32°F or lower) while the ‘40’ refers to the equivalent oil weight or grade at high temperatures (ie. 212°F).  On a single weight oil, the weight or grade is rated only at 212°F but is assumed that the viscosity equivalent of the oil is the same grade at 32°F due to not having additives in it to alter the viscosity at various temperatures.

 

A 5W-30 oil will have better oil flow and startup characteristics than a 10W-30 oil due to the 5W-30 weight oil having a reduced viscosity at lower temperatures.  This might be a player in the Northern States where the temperatures gets considerably cooler in the winter months but not as much as a player here in Texas on the older vehicles where it rarely gets to the freezing temperatures in my part of the country.  For this reason, I typically always recommend a 10W-40 oil for year round use in the older engines as this provides a sufficient viscosity at the higher summer temperatures while also insuring adequate zinc/phosphorus levels even if the oil has the newest SM API rating.

 

The other item to remember on multi-weight oils is that the greater the difference between the low and high temperature ratings, then the greater the propensity for the oil to break down over time and not actually retain its rating.  For example, a 5W-30 oil or a 10W-40 oil will break down quicker than a 10W-30 oil.  But if the oils are changed out at regular intervals, then this breakdown issue is a non-event regardless of the grade being used.

 

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


HT32BSX115
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0*C is not used as the lower limit on all oils. It really depends on the actual rating of the oil 0W, 5W, 10W etc...

5WXX oil for example has a MAX cranking viscosity measured at -30*C (for the low temp)


SAE J300 is the defining document in this area. It's interesting that it's an almost 100 year old standard too.

The latest one I could find was 2004:

http://www.infineum.com/information/api-viscosity-2004.html

Here's a pretty good article on what all that stuff means...

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/article_detail.asp?articleid=171

Cheers,


(anyone know why I cannot seem to post clickable links? or is that disabled on this site?)




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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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Ted
Posted 17 Years Ago
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HT32BSX115 (10/1/2008)
anyone know why I cannot seem to post clickable links? or is that disabled on this site?

Rick.  Thanks for the additional info.  Regarding the posting of links, the pasted in links need a space behind them in order for them to work.  Using a hard return without the space keeps the link from working.  I believe this will fix you up.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


HT32BSX115
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Thanks Ted!



I knew it would be something simple!



Cheers,


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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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This post was created using OpenSuSE Linux x64 and Firefox

56fairlanepost
Posted 17 Years Ago
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Normally aspirated

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i'd been checking around for a good blend of oil and contacted castrol and they recommended castrol syntec 20w-50 full synthetic.on the container it's recommended for classic cars and i'm told it it contains zinc @1200ppm.i was wondering if anyone had any experience with this oil.i found it readily available at pep boys and auto zone,but at $6.50 a bottle i would like to make sure it will work with my y-block without creating a problem.
pegleg
Posted 17 Years Ago
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Ted,

           Add to the comments what SAE specs to AVOID. The ones with the reduced zinc content.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 


Ted
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pegleg (11/4/2008)
Ted, Add to the comments what SAE specs to AVOID. The ones with the reduced zinc content.

Here’s the link again.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic9285-3-1.aspx


And here’s the text:

The latest API SM classification now means some variability in the amount of zinc and here are the rules as I interpret them. If the oil is 30W or less (ie. 5W-20, 10W-30), the zinc/phosphorus content is reduced to 800ppm max. But if the oil is greater than 30W (10W-40, 20W-50), the zinc levels remain at 1200-1400ppm. If the oil is classified as SM but has “Racing” or “High Mileage” on the label, then it will have the 1200-1400ppm zinc regardless of the oil weight or viscosity.

When in doubt about the amount of zinc in an oil, just pull up the manufacturers MSDS or technical sheet and you can pull the actual zinc/phosphorus content information out of that.



Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


56fairlanepost
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i was actually more interested in the fact that this oil is a full synthetic and if anyone had experienced any problems using a synthetic oil in a y-block.i plan on trying it out for the hack of it because synthetics seem help engines last for a longer period of time and this particular oil seems to be a good blend.any info would be greatly appreciated


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