Yeah. I plan on taping them together. Dropping anything in the engine would totally suck.

Brad
Sierra Vista Arizona
1954 Lincoln Capri

The hex oil pump driveshaf is 1/4".  I use a 1/4 drive,  1/4" deep socket attached to an extension driven by a reversed drill motor.  Just be very careful after priming to not loose the socket when pullig it out of the engine. 

64F100 57FAIRLANE500

I have the newer drive shaft, can't remember if it's hex or slot. Found out that I will need to remove the distributor and connect directly to the oil pump shaft

Brad
Sierra Vista Arizona
1954 Lincoln Capri

I’m guessing you have the tang drive distributor. Maybe you could cut off an old screwdriver that would fit in your drill and cut a slot in the tip that could fit on the drive?

  Dennis in Lititz PA

Using the grill, how does it attach to the distributor shaft?

Brad
Sierra Vista Arizona
1954 Lincoln Capri

If the 317 had the same type of shaft set up as a 292/312, you can use a speed wrench as well as a drill (reverse?)to prime the engine.  That is how I have primed mine.  (speed wrench)


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

If you have retained the HYDRA-MATIC, the RG is on the flywheel.

If you turn the CS while priming the oiling system, it may wipe the assembly/break-in lube off the cam and lifters.

* Along with if the fuel is not primed or ignition lead not set correctly to allow fast start, extended cranking will wipe the cam assembly lubricant or if the oiling system is not primed will have a dry cranking period on hard start.

I would do all of this after the engine/trans is mounted in the car. Unless you have a break-in stand, starting one on an engine stand might prove disastrous (IMO of course).

Don't forget the blended break-in oil (no additives).

____________________________

Which ever distributor drive you have, slot or hex, you can spin the oil pump in the direction of distributor rotation, and prime the engine.  It is also helpful to be able to rotate the crankshaft at least one revolution to allow oil to reach all of the different passages in the crankshaft mains and rods and up to the rocker arms.  Keep the oil pump priming until you see oil coming out of the rocker arm/shafts at all valves.  It does not need the transmission attached to do this.  Joe-JDC

JDC

I'm not familiar with the 54 Lincoln car but if the starter ring gear is part of the torque converter assembly, then you will need that in place for the starter motor to function. Other folks will chime in but l would want the trans attached just to support the heavy converter. If/with the trans being attached, adding fluid will also be part of the startup procedures. I'm familiar with the air cooled FOM's and thinking your trans convertor will be similar?

64F100 57FAIRLANE500

If you're starting it for the first time after a rebuild, you'll want to run it at 2000-2500 rpm for at least 20 minutes to break it in. I'm not familiar with the 317, but if the oil-pump drive will remain upon removing the distributor, you should be able to drive the pump with a drill. If you have a well-equipped engine run stand and are able to keep the engine from overheating during run-in, you don't need to attach the transmission. Your other option is to install the engine and transmission, and then fire it up. If everything else is as it should be, take it for a test ride after break-in, but don't stray too far from home.