Because the previous conversation regarding this oil pan gasket was started in the middle of another thread or posts, I am making a new thread specific to this gasket.  This thread is a continuation of that older thread.  Here’s the link to that previous thread.
PARTS - Oil pan gasket and throw out brg (y-blocksforever.com)

FORD DEARBORN (Jeff) sent to me one of the new silicone oil pan gaskets made specifically for the Ford Y.  This gasket is being manufactured by Real Gaskets Tennessee (RGT) and is new to the market.  I initially trial fitted it to a Y block oil pan and it was a perfect match to the holes.  The gasket also has plenty of material around the rear seal retainer area which is a plus as that tends to be a problem area when it comes to oil leakage.

Next was to actually install the new RGT gasket on an engine.  The engine selected for this is the 312 dyno mule which had been recently loaned out and was in a ’32 Ford making a couple of trips across the country.  Those trips put over 12,000 miles on the engine and prior to that, it had over 1050 dyno pulls on it.  The next issue of the Y-Block Magazine (#173) will have an article about that particular road trip with the dyno mule.  Upon receiving the engine back, it had some road grime on it but absolutely no oil leaks from the oil pan gasket or rear main seal area.  The oil pan gasket on the engine for those cross-country trips was the Best Gasket brand (black) with a rubberized compound combined with the fibrous material.  For the ’32 Ford, the oil pan had been switched from a factory baffled front sump oil pan to the HD Truck 7qt oil pan which was also factory baffled.  The Best Gasket oil pan gasket had been previously installed with white lithium grease on both sides for sealing purposes which facilitated its removal for this new test.  For the RGT oil pan gasket test, the HD pan would be retained.

With the dyno mule on an engine stand and upside down, the new gasket is laid in place on the pan rail of the block.  The rear main seal retainer does have the factory studs in it and that eliminates another potential oil leak that can occur on the Ford Y.  If the studs are missing and replaced with bolts similar to the remainder of the bolts being used to attach the oil pan to the engine, then oil can seep past those threads in the oil seal retainer and make it appear that the rear main seal is the source of the leak.  The new RGT oil pan gasket is a perfect fit on the block and the oil pan is subsequently laid on top of the gasket.

This is where the instructions supplied with the gasket comes into play.  And the instructions are very good and specific.  Absolutely no sealer of any kind is to be used and the bolt torque should be limited to 20-25 in-lbs.  While I had four different in-lb torque wrenches on hand, I had only one that would go down low enough to match the required torque value.  With the oil pan properly tightened, the inlet oil tube gland nut and oil pan tube retaining nut were appropriately tightened.  At this point the engine is mounted to a dyno cart with seven quarts of oil and a new filter being installed.

As soon as the schedule permits it, the engine will be mounted to the dyno and run.  With some header and intake manifold testing that needs to be performed, this will be a good opportunity to also test the RGT oil pan gasket and check for any potential oil leaks from that area.  I expect to have a dyno opening mid-February for the dyno mule so more word on that when it occurs.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Here are some pics to go along with the previous text.
 

 

 

 

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

It looks like you have a silent timing chain on the Mule, why not a roller chain? 
And also what type of dipstick tube is that if you don't mind me asking.
And thanks for that informative post

"FREE SAMPLE"

Thank you Ted..............hopefully the prototype gasket from RGT will perform as good as it looks and will share this information with RGT.

64F100 57FAIRLANE500

the gaskets I have(2 left) are just as good,probly  better, my kit has a plate that helps the pan at the rear  near the rear crank seal, the plate after the 5/16 flat washers touches the raised pan rails.my truck has 5years since asembled  and used a lot in good weather. the gaskets wher made by vancouver gasket  cut   the plates watter jets. cut and fit perfect. no leaks. I had a total of 6sets made, all but 1 wher sold. I keep the last 1. for my use.  the fact this kit  was designed by a engineer,for plate sizes to match the reader on watter cutter, along with a excellent gasket, by vancouver gasket co..I had no complaints with all that I sold. no longer make the kit,more work than worth the effort 
but we in canada west no longer leave our mark  of the drip of oil to match a older Harley.

The 312 dyno mule originally came into the shop as a core engine that was provided as an exchange for a replacement engine built for Bob Martin’s ’56 Mercury.  Upon deciding to use it as a dyno mule for general testing purposes, it was simply rebuilt using the original used but serviceable 0.060” oversize cast pistons and the Crower Monarch camshaft that was in it.  A new timing chain set replaced the original and it was simply a stock replacement.  When that engine was built, I did not have an inventory of roller timing chain sets so a stock replacement type of chain was used.  Keep in mind that this engine has been doing testing duty since 2008.

The dipstick for the oil level is a Canton P/N 20-850 universal dipstick.  The hole in the block for the dipstick is tapped to ¼” NPT and by using the appropriate brass fittings, the universal dipstick screws right in place.  Those universal dipsticks work appropriately for both the rear and front sump oil pans.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Thanks for the info. I had a feeling that a stock timing set would be better than a roller chain when I built my 312. Being a motorcycle rider I know how much even the best roller chains stretch and require constant adjustment. I was able to degree my cam with an offset woodruff key. I feel that I made the right decision.

"FREE SAMPLE"

2721955meteor

"... the gaskets I have(2 left) are just as good,probly  better, my kit has a plate that helps the pan at the rear  near the rear crank seal, the plate after the 5/16 flat washers touches the raised pan rails.my truck"

Is it possible to view a photo/description of your kit?

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Here’s the link to an older post which includes some pictures.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost157556.aspx

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

THANX!

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