I don't recall Ted having said anything negative about the aluminum gearotor oil pumps, and he prefers gearotors. Within the last two years, he did acquire a new batch of aftermarket cast-iron gearotor pumps, but they were/are $200+.

Melling still makes rebuild kits for the gearotor pumps.

CAST IRON BODEY,VERSUS ALUM ON GEROTER

PROBLEY NOT LINED UP,TRYING TO GET THE GASKET IN PLACE. BUT IF NOT  OIL FLOW AND LEAKAGE THE RESULTS

The oil pumped mounted to the block is really close to the oil pan flange at the left corner. I’m guessing 1/16.  Perhaps I can move the pan to the right there maybe a little wiggle room in the the bolts. 

The oil pumped mounted to the block is really close to the oil pan flange at the left corner. I’m guessing 1/16.  Perhaps I can move the pan to the right.  

?  Oil pump is mounted outside the pan on the Y.  Are you referring to the pick-up tube?  Those can be bent a little to make sure you have ~3/16"-1/4" clearance.  If you use thick oil(20W-50), then more clearance is a good idea.  Joe-JDC

JDC

My oil pump sure sits close to the pan. Seems to have the gaskets interfering.
Anybody else have issues with this.
my pump is cast iron 

The pump is a cast iron gear.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

is the oil pump a geroter. if yes ther is part of the problem. the aluminum cast distorts  if over tightened.the ear  of the pump that has a bolt from upper side the gaskets  need good crush. I am replacing my geroter pump with a gear pump, cast iron. they don't leaks they do not warp like the greater.. the posts re so called horse shew. the proper ones use a 5/16  hardened washer  between the plate and bolt holes, idea is the plate rides on the pan rails, the flat washer also comes into play to put tension on destorted bolt holes from  years of over torqued  the custom gaskets are pricey, hear in canada they cost 45.cn dollars,if oder is 25 or more. the plate only works if they are water cut with holes   aligned via the computer lay out. they cost 30 cn dollars in lots of20.the water cut gives a consistent straight  plate impossible to do making  1 any other way.

With Ted and Tim’s experience with engine assembly perhaps they could respond with their “best practices” experience.
 I have had good luck with both. Cork doesn’t need much compression to work and I brake clean the fasteners and the holes and the put some black RTV on the fastener threads. I find that they hold their position just fine and do not loosen. Paint makes for a good witness.
I was under my 56 today looking once again and the pan shows no leaks but I took another flat on the nut on the oil pump as it showed a hanging drip. 

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.