Cork Gaskets


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By Richard - 2 Years Ago
Got the Best gasket cork for my oil pan it sure seems thin. After working the dimples out of the oil pan with a socket bolt heavy washers it’s seems darn flat just a Little Rock on the rear corner which I’ll address today. 
Has anyone considered putting two gaskets together to give a thicker cushion. Theses things  are only 1/16 thick.

Second question: Although the socket, bolt, nut washer did flatten ok  I am thinking my press would have worked better. Any comments appreciated. 

Thirdly: I purchased the horse shoe shaped clamp for the back of the pan. I will use it but noted some fitment  issues in the pan rail.  Not a big deal I just ground it to fit and making sure it’s flat. The clamp has washers on the bottom to raise it up above the pan’s stamped in reliefs/bottom raised/top. Also not a big deal the washers are JB welded in place so they came off on grinding. I’ll just JB weld them back in place with a nut and bolt locating them in place.  

I’m sure this all overkill but I have to work under the car so I don’t want to revisit this…

Thanks,
Richard
By DryLakesRacer - 2 Years Ago
My last time 1 yr ago with the pan off I used the Best cork and prepared the pan like you. I did not add the horse clamp. The 2 center cap screws are replaced with studs with the Allen centers. I used Permatex #2 on the pan to hold the gasket on the pan. I used a very thin coating of black RTV where each metal split on the engine. 
I feel it’s a great seal especially with a PCV system. My leaks are all on the oil pump and it’s surfaces and tubes. I did this all under the car. 
By FORD DEARBORN - 2 Years Ago
Richard, my only consern with using two or too thick of gasket is lowering the pan enough to not being able to engage the pickup tube nut in the pump. I did notice the latest Best gasket is indeed rather thin. I like the idea of adding another gasket if it doesn't create a pickup tube alignment problem. I may end up doing that too. As far as straightening the holes in the pan I'm going to experiment with blocks of steel and a large C-clamp. This may spread the pressure over a wider area than just the area at the holes.  I would think ideally a press would be the best tool if you can fit all this in there. I may try this too.  There is a hydraulic rubber and belt shop in my area that sells various thickness rubber/neoprene type material by the foot. I'll need to first ask what is compatible with motor oil?  I think silicone gasket material would be the better choice because it is compatible with oil, very flexible yet firm, not like cork. There must be a better material than stone age cork.  After assembling the engine while on the stand years ago, that pan didn't leak for a couple years. Since than, it's been a constant battle.   I'll report any progress or not, when I get to it maybe next week.            Let us know how the "horse shoe" device works out.  
By Richard - 2 Years Ago
I just order a Cometic composite gasket compressed size is .096 
cost with shipping is $49. Lead time is three weeks because they are made to order 
By FORD DEARBORN - 2 Years Ago
Thanks for the information on this gasket supplier. Looked at their web site (Cometic) and found the Y-block oil pan gasket .096"  "figer".  Same thickness as the "Best" cork gasket. 
By Richard - 2 Years Ago
Yup your right mine measured about the same. I think the difference is compressed, plus the material. 
By DryLakesRacer - 2 Years Ago
With Ted and Tim’s experience with engine assembly perhaps they could respond with their “best practices” experience.
 I have had good luck with both. Cork doesn’t need much compression to work and I brake clean the fasteners and the holes and the put some black RTV on the fastener threads. I find that they hold their position just fine and do not loosen. Paint makes for a good witness.
I was under my 56 today looking once again and the pan shows no leaks but I took another flat on the nut on the oil pump as it showed a hanging drip. 
By 2721955meteor - 2 Years Ago
is the oil pump a geroter. if yes ther is part of the problem. the aluminum cast distorts  if over tightened.the ear  of the pump that has a bolt from upper side the gaskets  need good crush. I am replacing my geroter pump with a gear pump, cast iron. they don't leaks they do not warp like the greater.. the posts re so called horse shew. the proper ones use a 5/16  hardened washer  between the plate and bolt holes, idea is the plate rides on the pan rails, the flat washer also comes into play to put tension on destorted bolt holes from  years of over torqued  the custom gaskets are pricey, hear in canada they cost 45.cn dollars,if oder is 25 or more. the plate only works if they are water cut with holes   aligned via the computer lay out. they cost 30 cn dollars in lots of20.the water cut gives a consistent straight  plate impossible to do making  1 any other way.
By DryLakesRacer - 2 Years Ago
The pump is a cast iron gear.
By Richard - 2 Years Ago

My oil pump sure sits close to the pan. Seems to have the gaskets interfering.
Anybody else have issues with this.
my pump is cast iron 
By Joe-JDC - 2 Years Ago
?  Oil pump is mounted outside the pan on the Y.  Are you referring to the pick-up tube?  Those can be bent a little to make sure you have ~3/16"-1/4" clearance.  If you use thick oil(20W-50), then more clearance is a good idea.  Joe-JDC
By Richard - 2 Years Ago
The oil pumped mounted to the block is really close to the oil pan flange at the left corner. I’m guessing 1/16.  Perhaps I can move the pan to the right.  
No problem with the pick up tube.





By Richard - 2 Years Ago
The oil pumped mounted to the block is really close to the oil pan flange at the left corner. I’m guessing 1/16.  Perhaps I can move the pan to the right there maybe a little wiggle room in the the bolts. 





By 2721955meteor - 2 Years Ago
PROBLEY NOT LINED UP,TRYING TO GET THE GASKET IN PLACE. BUT IF NOT  OIL FLOW AND LEAKAGE THE RESULTS
By 2721955meteor - 2 Years Ago
CAST IRON BODEY,VERSUS ALUM ON GEROTER
By 55blacktie - 2 Years Ago
I don't recall Ted having said anything negative about the aluminum gearotor oil pumps, and he prefers gearotors. Within the last two years, he did acquire a new batch of aftermarket cast-iron gearotor pumps, but they were/are $200+.

Melling still makes rebuild kits for the gearotor pumps.