Got the Best gasket cork for my oil pan it sure seems thin. After working the dimples out of the oil pan with a socket bolt heavy washers it’s seems darn flat just a Little Rock on the rear corner which I’ll address today. 

My last time 1 yr ago with the pan off I used the Best cork and prepared the pan like you. I did not add the horse clamp. The 2 center cap screws are replaced with studs with the Allen centers. I used Permatex #2 on the pan to hold the gasket on the pan. I used a very thin coating of black RTV where each metal split on the engine. 

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

Richard, my only consern with using two or too thick of gasket is lowering the pan enough to not being able to engage the pickup tube nut in the pump. I did notice the latest Best gasket is indeed rather thin. I like the idea of adding another gasket if it doesn't create a pickup tube alignment problem. I may end up doing that too. As far as straightening the holes in the pan I'm going to experiment with blocks of steel and a large C-clamp. This may spread the pressure over a wider area than just the area at the holes.  I would think ideally a press would be the best tool if you can fit all this in there. I may try this too.  There is a hydraulic rubber and belt shop in my area that sells various thickness rubber/neoprene type material by the foot. I'll need to first ask what is compatible with motor oil?  I think silicone gasket material would be the better choice because it is compatible with oil, very flexible yet firm, not like cork. There must be a better material than stone age cork.  After assembling the engine while on the stand years ago, that pan didn't leak for a couple years. Since than, it's been a constant battle.   I'll report any progress or not, when I get to it maybe next week.            Let us know how the "horse shoe" device works out.  

64F100 57FAIRLANE500

I just order a Cometic composite gasket compressed size is .096 
cost with shipping is $49. Lead time is three weeks because they are made to order 

Thanks for the information on this gasket supplier. Looked at their web site (Cometic) and found the Y-block oil pan gasket .096"  "figer".  Same thickness as the "Best" cork gasket. 

64F100 57FAIRLANE500

Yup your right mine measured about the same. I think the difference is compressed, plus the material. 

With Ted and Tim’s experience with engine assembly perhaps they could respond with their “best practices” experience.
 I have had good luck with both. Cork doesn’t need much compression to work and I brake clean the fasteners and the holes and the put some black RTV on the fastener threads. I find that they hold their position just fine and do not loosen. Paint makes for a good witness.
I was under my 56 today looking once again and the pan shows no leaks but I took another flat on the nut on the oil pump as it showed a hanging drip. 

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

is the oil pump a geroter. if yes ther is part of the problem. the aluminum cast distorts  if over tightened.the ear  of the pump that has a bolt from upper side the gaskets  need good crush. I am replacing my geroter pump with a gear pump, cast iron. they don't leaks they do not warp like the greater.. the posts re so called horse shew. the proper ones use a 5/16  hardened washer  between the plate and bolt holes, idea is the plate rides on the pan rails, the flat washer also comes into play to put tension on destorted bolt holes from  years of over torqued  the custom gaskets are pricey, hear in canada they cost 45.cn dollars,if oder is 25 or more. the plate only works if they are water cut with holes   aligned via the computer lay out. they cost 30 cn dollars in lots of20.the water cut gives a consistent straight  plate impossible to do making  1 any other way.

The pump is a cast iron gear.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

My oil pump sure sits close to the pan. Seems to have the gaskets interfering.
Anybody else have issues with this.
my pump is cast iron