I installed the new pushrods and adjusters; pulling the cotter pins at the exhaust rocker arms #1-4-5 & 8 is a cinch, every other rocker arm moves freely to the side. The engine sounds so much better, what a relief. The old pushrod cups are rough on the inside and the adjuster balls grind inside of them. I am very thankful for everyone's help.

Now it's time to test the brakes!



.150 Stroked Y-Block:327.25 ci @ >1hp per ci  

Removing the cotter pins should work, too.  Do it however you are the most comfortable.  I find it easier to remove the assembly rather than replace the cotter pins with the shaft on the engine.



Lawrenceville, GA

Is there any reason not to remove the cotter pins and then wiggle the exhaust rocker arms at 1-4-5 & 8? It seems to me much easier than lifting the entire assembly for just those 4 rocker arms, I think the rest of them will move easily out of the way with the assembly in place.



.150 Stroked Y-Block:327.25 ci @ >1hp per ci  

If you loosen the rocker hold down bolts and nuts, there may be enough wiggle room.  And if that doesn't work, you can remove the shaft assembly to install the pushrods and tighten it down with the pushrods in place.  Since there will be tension on the shaft, you want to be sure to tighten them evenly but it should not be a problem.  I've done that numerous times.



Lawrenceville, GA

The #5 exhaust pushrod will not clear the rocker arm, it's only a 1/16" or less but I can't get it to clear. Is it better to remove the cotter pin and wiggle the rocker to the side or lift the entire rocker assembly? If lifting the assembly, I am concerned about getting it torqued back down with the rockers in contact with the springs. I should be able to loosen all of the adjusters and then rotate the engine to the correct positions to get each cylinder to the full compression cycle, but I am leery of not having the rockers as they are adjusted to indicate that I am in the right position, rocker arms not in contact with springs, and then replace pushrods and adjusters and adjust the lash of a particular cylinder.



.150 Stroked Y-Block:327.25 ci @ >1hp per ci  

There’s no need to remove the cotter pins from the shafts to install the adjusters in the end rocker arms assuming there is enough wiggle room to replace the pushrods.  There’s always the possibility that the rocker arm shaft assemblies will need to be loosened up to change out the pushrods.  Let us know on that one.  Aluminum heads are easier than cast iron heads in that regard.

On my end, it is simpler and quicker to just change out both rocker arm adjusters on a given cylinder by having the engine at the top of the compression stroke on that cylinder.  At TDC on the damper, either the #1 or #6 cylinder will be on its compression stroke and once you determine which of those two cylinders is at compression, that’s a good starting point.  In your case, the cylinder with lash on both the valves would be the one at its compression stroke.  I start at the #6 cylinder regularly on most engines setting the valves just to eliminate an additional rotation of the crankshaft to get to #1 in those cases where #6 is at the compression stroke and not the #1 cylinder.  Rotating the engine in 90° increments and following the firing order will save time versus doing it the EOIC method and much easier to keep up with where you are.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

The new adjusters arrived: 3/8” ball x 7/16-20 “oversized” (these fit the rocker arms much better.) The ball fits the cup in the new pushrods perfectly. The ball on the new adjusters is round; the failed adjuster balls are ground down and are not round.

I am planning to work through the install one cylinder at a time, replacing the intake when the exhaust valve is just opening and the exhaust when the intake is almost closed. I think the rocker arms will move to the side to allow the pushrods to clear except at the four ends the rockers wont slide to the side, It seems to me that I should remove the cotter pin from the end of the shaft to allow the rockers on the ends to be moved for new pushrod install, or, is there a better way?







.150 Stroked Y-Block:327.25 ci @ >1hp per ci  

I’m assuming the Smith Brothers push rods have cups that accept a 3/8” ball and the ball will sit in the bottom of the cup with clearance on the sides. I don’t know about your assembly habits but I recently had both my heads off for a valve seal change along with other repairs and lubed the top and bottom of the push rods with assembly lube. My racing GMC 6’s are made the same and it’s a precaution I take when servicing the engine. I hope it all works out and your problem is solved. 

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

The supplier told me that the problem is that the cup is not machined perfectly and the roughness in the cup is grinding the ball.

I have Smith Bros. rods on the way and Harland Sharp had some fat adjusters (.438) with 3/8” ball. Both made in the USA!

famdoc3, you nailed it. , DryLakesRacer I could not find a fatter bolt to try, they are all skinnier, real good idea. The mfg leads helped. Ted, as always, many thanks! 2721955meteor, when I had the covers off and primed the system there was oil at all of the rockers, after the short runs upon inspection everything appears wet. Daniel Jessup, the wear was opening the lash so quickly it seemed dangerous to keep running it. As a result of this group, I have again made another step in the right direction.

I hope you all have a great day!




.150 Stroked Y-Block:327.25 ci @ >1hp per ci  

From the pictures you have posted, your ball end of the adjuster is not riding true in the cup of the push rod. Once you have some wear between those two parts because the ball is trying to seat, that is what is giving you the extra lash.

Daniel Jessup

Loveland, Ohio

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com