Merry Christmas Everyone! So this winter we've decided to do a power steering conversion on our 56 Ranch Wagon using Borgeson  components. A closer examination of the crank dampener where the accessory pulley will mount shows a moderate amount of oil around the steady rest, most likely from the timing cover seal.I could look the other way and just bolt on the accessory pulley and be done, but it is a moderate amount of oil.  I've done seal replacements several times in the past, but never with the engine in the car. I know it can be done, hopefully without dropping the oil pan, but any words of wisdom you may have would be appreciated.

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

Not too difficult to do at all - but the timing cover has to be removed since the seal is installed from the inside of the timing cover itself. It can certainly be removed and the seal replaced without dropping the pan. Usually the timing cover gasket kits come with the front portion of the oil pan gasket anyway.

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

Thanks Daniel, I thought that was the case. I'll remove the radiator and hopefully I will have enough room to use my puller to get the dampener off without having to take the grille out or anything like that..

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

I don't know how much it will help, but I did a camshaft swap this past year while the engine sat in the car the entire time. (This was because of space constraints and I was just not in a position to pull the engine like I normally would.) During that simple E4 install, I took some video and I also wrote up a blog post or two about the experience. A buddy of mine and I had a good time in the garage with all of that. At any rate, I easily made a copy of one of KR Wilson's installation tools on that damper. Maybe that can help in some way.

Links

https://www.hotrodreverend.com/post/1955-ford-part-110-camshaft-upgrade-in-car-part-1

https://www.hotrodreverend.com/post/1955-ford-part-112-camshaft-upgrade-in-car-part-2




Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

While you have the front cover off, check the balancer where the seal rides to see if it has a groove cut in it. Over the years these engines have been in service, the seal can actually cut down into the metal of the balancer and a new seal won't fix the leak.  Harmonic balancer repair sleaves are available.

I love the Hot Rod Reverand's website and videos.  Merry Christmas to all!!

Thanks! I have used those "speedy Sleeves" before and I suspect there will be wear on the crank pulley there.  I was also wondering if you only snug the bolts on the timing cover until the crank damper is fully seated with the new seal in place so that it will center itself? Maybe this is not necessary but I thought I would ask.
 

  Ron Lane,  Meridian, ID

That is what I did the last time I installed the front cover.





54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

FYI:  In case you don’t have a special tool, I believe there is a T-Bird restoration manual (?) page depicting how a piece of standard PVC pipe can be used to install the seal.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Simply ensure that the bottom oil pan gasket flange on the timing cover is parallel with the gasket flange on the block.  If using anything (ie. PCV pipe) other than the factory tool to align the cover so it’s centered with the crankshaft snout, the weight of the timing cover will have the seal automatically off center.  While this creates a scenario where the snout is not centered with the seal, the oil pan gasket sealing areas on the cover and block will also be misaligned with each other.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

While we’re on the subject of timing covers:  I can’t find a cut-away view anywhere of the coolant/pump space inside the cover.  Do either of the top pump bolt heads need sealer?  
Going through all my accumulated Y-Block/T-Bird literature, I find what is apparently missing, is a detailed list/diagram of all the specific bolts that intersect either coolant or oil spaces.  Likely a good future Y-Block Magazine article (?).
P.S.  Is it my imagination, of did I once read something about installing the water pump higher to avoid pulley interference?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA