Author
|
Message
|
slumlord444
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 3 Months Ago
Posts: 1.2K,
Visits: 137.2K
|
Am I missing something or does the road draft pipe have to go? I don’t see any way to make it work with the headers. I’m thinking the easiest is to convert to aPCV. A rubber grommet in the hole in valley pan, PCV valve in the grommet, a hose to a vacuum outlet on my 750;Holly and I’m done. Am I missing anything? Cheaper than the $90 kits I see.
|
|
|
miker
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 days ago
Posts: 1.8K,
Visits: 190.0K
|
Just make sure the rubber grommet is the type that has some kind of baffle. They’re a fair number of recent post here that address that. The latest one. http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic162448-2.aspx
miker 55 bird, 32 cabrio F code Kent, WA Tucson, AZ
|
|
|
KULTULZ
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 6 days ago
Posts: 1.6K,
Visits: 304.7K
|
Did the manufacturer (please name) mention as to whether the tubes will interfere with the BIRD SPECIFIC road draft tube? I know there is a beautiful set available but it says BIRD SPECIFIC on the left set due to the STEERING BOX. Ideally, you want (IMO) a PCV SETUP to ventilate the crankcase properly. ROAD DRAFT leaves a lot to be desired (IMO). EDIT - ...hmm ... You did mention the manufacturer. Maybe call them and ask what the problem is. If they interfere with something, they should include a notation and/or include such notation in their application list - http://www.fordpowertrain.com/Tbirdheader.htm
____________________________
|
|
|
slumlord444
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 3 Months Ago
Posts: 1.2K,
Visits: 137.2K
|
Headers are FPA T Bird specific. Will call them Monday. Was thinking someone here who has them might know.
|
|
|
miker
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 days ago
Posts: 1.8K,
Visits: 190.0K
|
I’ve got them, but I had the PCV in place when I installed them. Just looking at mine I can see it’s pretty tight down there so I’m not surprised you’re having a problem.
miker 55 bird, 32 cabrio F code Kent, WA Tucson, AZ
|
|
|
ogasman
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 42,
Visits: 6.8K
|
I have the FPA headers for my 55 Bird. I think they are the same as the 57. They are not in the car, the engine is on the run stand. I did away with the road draft tube for a cleaner install. Block off plate for the draft tube site. Ran a gromet and PCV valve in the valley cover, and plan on running it to the base plate of the Holley carb. I got the part number information from Ted. Just local junk from the NAPA, nothing special. Hopefully he will chime in, I did not save the part numbers or applications.
Paul
|
|
|
Florida_Phil
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 Years Ago
Posts: 1.2K,
Visits: 285.6K
|
Replacing the road draft tube with a PCV is worth the trouble. Casco Thunderbird makes a kit that comes with everything you need. I used their kit to replace the road draft tube in my '55 TBird some time ago. It idles better, my mysterious oil leaks quit and my garage doesn't stink. This makes my wife happy, which is well worth the cost.

|
|
|
DryLakesRacer
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 1.7K,
Visits: 340.0K
|
If the Thunderbirds road draft tube has the “box” under it in the valley cover like the 62-64 292’s in cars and trucks your grommet will not need a a baffle but will need a short cap screw installed in the hole so it will not suck thru the hole. You can look in the hole after the road draft tube is removed. Ted has shown a photo of this installation many times. I agree with Phil that my garage no longer smells when I park after I added the system.
56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.
|
|
|
slumlord444
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 3 Months Ago
Posts: 1.2K,
Visits: 137.2K
|
The T Bird has the box. Figured an easy way to hook up the PCV. Dug up a spare road draft tube. Cut it off about an inch psst the 90 degree turn out of the valley cover. Simple to adapt the PCV to the road draft pipe and a hose to the vacuum outlet on the carb. Bolted up the passenger side header. Gasket that came with the headers wasn’t going to seal so I used a gasket for the factory manifold. I will callFPA tomorrow about the gasket. Header fit fine without the road draft tube. I used the studs I had with the old headers. Had to grind some more off my already modified wrench to tighten the rear bolt but it worked. Didn’t use the heat shields. Should be easier to change plugs. So far, so good. On to the drivers side and then getting from the header to the muffler. Going to a muffler shop to make 2 1/2” tailpipes.
|
|
|
bird55
|
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 Years Ago
Posts: 1.1K,
Visits: 58.8K
|
The copper gaskets supplied with my FPA's worked great. I also use studs (actually they are referred to set screws) with allen drives. These make installing and removing much, much easier. I converted to pcv before this install. FYI, one thing I did change is reverse the heim joint style. I felt like it is a more efficient engineering solution. BUT, I'm no engineer! Still have had it for years and have no issues. Also this allowed me to shorten the threaded receiver that is welded to the header flange. Here's the before.  And here's after. 
A L A N F R A K E S ~ Tulsa, OK
|
|
|