Thanks Ted.  

The existing square baffle does a great job in keeping oil away from the road draft tube opening in the valley cover.  No extra filler or foil is needed.  Other than just plugging the original ¼-20 hole that’s in the baffle, all you need is a rubber grommet in the existing hole and the PCV valve and you are good to go.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Thanks Ted

So what if I follow your first option...I can run a  screw down into the nutsert that someone installed in my valley cover to plug that hole up and then run the appropriately sized grommet and PCV?  I don't need to do anything else to that big square "baffle" as far as blocking off oil from getting in there?  It's alright to keep the side open as shown in the second photo here?

Deyo sent me this as a private message but the response is detailed so I’ll share it here.

I use the factory baffled valley covers for all Ford Y PCV valve installations.  These came on the 1958 thru 1964 Y’s and have the hole at the back for either a rear mounted road draft tube or an oil separator that connects to a PCV valve depending upon the year and application.  The ’58-’64 covers all have the flat baffle (tray) below that opening along with a ¼-20 threaded hollow stud positioned within the exposed hole to facilitate fastening the road draft tube or oil separator.  I’m thinking 1961 was the first year for the PCV valve on the Ford Y but the covers are all the same in regards to the rear opening and lower tray from 1958 thru 1964.  While that bell looking piece is called an oil separator, all the oil separating is done at the lower tray in the valley cover while the oil separator ends up be a handy piece that bolts to the valley cover to just redirect the air flow to the PCV valve.


While the factory PCV valve installations use the oil separator with a hose connecting to a front of intake manifold threaded PCV valve, I opt to put the PCV valve at the back of  the engine simply for a cleaner look.  I have two options for this with the simplest being removing the ¼-20 hollow stud from the tray that’s centered in the hole and using a Dorman #42323 PCV grommet in the existing valley cover hole.  When removing the ¼”-20 hollow tube, the remaining hole in the lower tray is plugged with a small bolt and nut to eliminate a potential path for oil to go directly to the PCV valve.  The PCV valve goes directly in that grommet with a hose then going to a direct vacuum source either at the carburetor or close to the base of the carburetor.
  

  

  

The other option is machining an extended spacer to be used with the factory gasket that fastens to the original ¼-20 stud in the tray mounted valley cover.  This uses the same aforementioned Dorman PCV valve grommet.  While more complicated than just installing a grommet in the existing valley cover hole, it does give the option or reinstalling the rear mounted road draft tube for restoration purposes.
  
Here’s the link giving more detail on this one.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost152554.aspx 

Another plus to going with a PCV valve when switching to a modern aftermarket carburetor is that most of those carbs already have a richened idle circuit to compensate for using a PCV valve.

I will add that in 1989 I added a PCV valve to my ’55 Customline with a 272.  On that one, I simply used a hole saw and cut a hole in the factory non-baffled valley cover between the heated crossover and cylinders 3 & 4 at the intake.  There’s over 200K miles with that setup without any oil consumption issues so on that one I got lucky in that there’s no oil being thrown up in that particular location.
  

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Here is a low buck idea-

PCV Valve Elbow - Fabricated From 6758 Road Draft Tube

It will move the valve away from direct spray at the least.

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Nicely done. I understand (and the need for) the CLOSED PCV SYSTEM.

I really like how you did the HTR HOSE and AC LINE detail. Blower motor inside the heater box?

As for the PCV TUBE, I would (IMO) leave it natural as were the later OEM tubing. Not b!tching, but your detailing is spot on (IMO).

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I too like things to look like they were made like the factory might have done it. Most forget a “clean airline” to feed the system. You can see mine from the oil fill tube. Stant offers a breather cap with  hose connection. 

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

THANX for the detail for me to offer the compliment.

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Yes, the left side and right rear runners are farther out than the stock 2 or 4 barrel manifold. I probably could have cleared with grommet and a 1/2” diameter tube with a collar welded to it but choose to do this. Not sure on the Blue Thunder or Mummert manifolds. My Blue Thunder has been machined on the right rear to clear the distributor so the my be out farther but also taller. With the air cleaner on nothing is noticeable. I should probably paint the 1/2” tube black. Thanks for the compliment. 

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

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