Thank you for this. It's great to have some actual numbers to check against. Right now the brake booster is non functional so I shouldn't have a problem, but will be rebuilding it as the project moves along so will need to figure it out. I have seen many vacuum canisters that could be used and seem to remember some active 12V vacuum pumps that can be used so I think there are many solutions for the brakes if I need it. Today's project is replacing all the vacuum lines and cleaning up all of the exterior engine parts to get them ready for painting.
The machine shop is starting to gather the parts so I hope to have the engine back in a few weeks and want to be ready. 
. 

Many moons ago I added a vacuum tank to the brakes on a car I had because of the cam. The tank was from a 1970 Galaxie that operated the headlight covers. I had a vacuum gauge attached to it to see how much was there. I did have to make sure the vacuum was up before I drove off, but I could get an incredible amount of stops out of it once vacuum was up.

The vacuum boost section of the pump is intended to compensate for varying manifold vacuum while driving. It is considered operational only when pulling 10HG with manifold vacuum source removed (test procedure).

Also, if using a vacuum brake booster, it needs to see at a minimum 18HG to be fully operational.

____________________________

Getting adequate oil to the rockers is an issue with these engines.  The oil holes in the head are small and they tend to clog up though the years.  In addition, the oil runs through a dog leg that you can see with the heads off. Milling the heads can make this worse. Mummert cuts the center cam oil grove deeper to .030" in his cams to increase oil flow. Before I installed my Isky cam, I measured the cam grove depth and found it was .018" deep.  We put it in a lathe and cut it to .030".  I tested the flow manually on the engine stand and it made a big difference. So much so that I was afraid I would flood the heads with oil.  When I ran the engine, I found it to be perfect.  I left the value train stock and it's been working for over 3,000 miles. There are threads on this subject if you want to learn more.  This forum is a great resource of information.  It's wonderful that so many people care about these old motors. 

Thanks everyone for the cam insight. Based on the input I think the E4 will be a good fit for the '57 Tbird with a Ford-O-Matic , but will talk to the machine shop about the possible vacuum issues. FWIW, I am using the fuel pump that incorporates a vacuum boost chamber ( at least I think that is what it does) so the vacuum may not be an issue. That being said, I keep getting surprised on this car so will definitely perform some due diligence there. 

Thanks again to everyone for their ongoing help. 

Here is some personal feedback you may find useful.  My TBird engine is a .060 over 292 with G heads, flat top pistons, 57 intake, Holley 465 carb and 57 ignition. Except for the 312 crank, it's very similar to the engine you are working on.  I have run both the E4 Isky cam 301444 cam (duration 260) and the 301333 cam (duration 270) in my street Y-Blocks.   I have a 301333 cam in my car now.  Both cams are good street cams.  The 301333 is significantly more radical at idle. My car has a manual transmission and it idles at 800 rpm.  The E4 rumbles like a healthy engine.  The 301333 pops through the exhaust pipes with a definite lope.  Both cams will operate at low RPM without bucking or hesitation.  My 301333 cam pulls about 14 pounds of vacumn at idle. Mid range torque is excellent. Friends that have ridden with me say they are surprised that a Y-Block runs that well.   I never rev my engine over 5,500 rpm, so I can't comment on high rpm performance. If you like a quieter milder mannered car, I would choose the E4.  If you like a touch of race car attitude, you may like the 301333 better.  Keep in mind that my car is a light TBird with a manual transmission and a lower rear gear ratio. 

Duane's point about the E-4 lobe seperation is well taken.. I believe that point has come up before... As to references to the 1957 Cam.. Oregon Cams in Vancouver Washington (across the river from the Oregon border) has copies of it available, taken off an unused original..  I don't recall the price but it wasn't unreasonable.  


Paul

Something to consider my experience anyway. “ Off the shelf “ cam e4 comes with a close lobe separation which produces a lower vacuum. If running power assist brakes may cause issues. It did for me anyway. I had to can my booster and go to hydro boost . Several hundred dollars more. My new build will be getting an E4 but with a custom order wider separation. You should also take into consideration what transmission and converter if it’s an automatic your running .

Duane

I'm going to give a largely seat of the pants description of what I did and how it works with a 292 +.40 and unposted G heads with 1.54 rockers. I wanted a cam to approximate the specs from the '57 245 hp, 4V factory item. I'm not sure the piston configuration, it was part of a Mummert rebuild kit with hypereutectic pistons. My build was done in 2004, but not actually run til 2012. My goal was to replicate the performance of a '57 4V Y-block.
The engine propels a '54 Merc convertible with a C-4 automatic and stock '54 rear end. Bottom line is I couldn't be happier with this engine. It sounds great with dual 30" glasspacks, especially on acceleration. It cruises effortlessly at all speeds and will push you back in the seat nicely when you're looking for a little speed satisfaction....freeway on ramps are a blast. It gets 13 - 15 mpg and runs on 87 octane without any pinging. All in all I got exactly what I was looking for and I definitely brag about it at car shows. Good luck with your choices.
P.S. - Lower compression is your friend for a street engine, somewhere under 9.0 I would guess. It lets you run regular gas and still provides enjoyable performance.


Marc

'54 Merc ragtop

Pt Townsend, WA   

                                                                                                                                   

The Isky E4 is a proven upgrade over the factory 1957 camshaft without being overly rowdy.  Just enough rumble to let you know you have a ‘better’ camshaft but not a heavy loper.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)