Couldn't have said it better! Good luck with your '55. Really cool car!

Kent — Round Rock, TX
'56 F-100  | '56 Crown Vic  |  '57 Fairlaine 500  |  '57 Thunderbird

As stated in this article, there are many factors involved in controlling engine temperature.  Radiators, fans, shrouds, ignition timing, accessories, air and coolant flow vary with each car.   So much Voodoo has grown up around this issue, it's difficult to know what works and what doesn't.  When you start writing checks, you want to know the facts.

I had the same problem with my 56 Tbird.  I also have an aluminum radiator and electric fan.  Also A/C.   I solved it by using the CASCO high output water pump and using a large opening 180 degree thermostat . I'm using a 7 inch pulley.   
 I never see more then 190 degrees even in the Texas summer heat.  

CASCO did an extensive test and their high output water pump flowed more GPH than any other combo.   See their test at https://www.classictbird.com/pdf/H2O-pump-test-results.pdf

Bill Janke

Georgetown, TX

if steering is serviced ,ball-points tyros replaced they handle fine, the starting is easy to rectify,auxilery elect fuel pumps float. capacity no hell if car parked for a week.(speaking ov teapot 4v. up the charge rate simple to do. have the 6volt starter rebuilt by a shop than under stands. have repairs 2 birds this way and. several flatheads. these cars all now have bc collector plates. Some enthusiasts have deep pockets and upgrade electric, no argument on the brakes

Who wants to own an old car you can't drive?  When I bought my car, it was mostly original.  My 1955 drum brakes sucked. Six volt electrical systems were horrible. Thankfully, a previous owner changed my car to 12 volts,   In 1956, Ford changed to twelve volts and kept them to the present time.  1955 cars overheat in modern traffic. The steering is sloppy and they ride like a truck.  I understand those who want to keep their TBirds as built.  If I had TBird #1, I wouldn't touch it either.  I'm not a big fan of the restomod craze.  If you change too much you lose the car's soul.  Making reliability and safety improvements are a good thing.

I was trying to reply about coating the exhaust and over heating. earlier a post came to light saying fan shroud speeding up the water pump made the most cents.BUT THE ENGINEERING FORD DID ON 292/312S INTO THE TBIRDS WAS A MESS. the 1st t bird I salvaged was a 1955,i built a 312 up 4v carb,57 CAMREGRIND 57 intake and diet. I found a shroud, made a adaptor for the water pump drive(used the car pump. original rad, cleaned.
drove it for3 years, no heating issues no loose exhaust(gaskets with grad8 bolts and hardened flats.
my first y was a 272 in a 2door always bolts coming loose.reason the grade junk bolts ford use wold stretch,never return to original length.
put dual exhaust(proper conversion 1new manifold(driver side) grade 8 with hardened washers, never came loose. sold the care when it hit 90,000 miles.. as a 18year old slightly crazy plat out all the time,1mile steep hill hot weather no heating.
was I was trying to say older posts where correct and possibly they needed to be revisited, if you want a 55/57 bird you want it to be stock, other wise its not a bird, hear in bc canada you can get a collector plate ,gives you insurance and licence for 230. Canadian funds. to me that is the real bird won't stir the soup any more

I have an oil pressure gage and temperature gage added because the original Ford gages were erratic.  Joe-JDC  

JDC

If you don't know the temp and you don't let it go any farther than what you think is 200, then you just don't know.

It may be stabilize and if it doesn't boil over on the hottest days, it is fine.  If it continues to rise until boil over, then it needs improvement.

One thing to keep in mind when using a gauge is, because of the sender location and assuming it is accurate, the temperature at the thermostat will be 10 - 15 degrees hotter.  You can check this with a laser thermometer.  Knowing the accuracy of the gauge and then the change in temp between the sender and thermostat will then give you a better idea of when the temp is getting toward the danger zone, according to the coolant mix and cap pressure.


Lawrenceville, GA

To be honest, I don't know how hot my engine actually gets.  I never have any temp issues until the heat of the summer.  Even then, it's only in traffic on 90 degree days.  My SW temp gauge reads 170-180 degrees normally. This matches my 170 degree thermostat.   In traffic, the needle goes past the 180 degree mark, maybe to 200 or so.  I have never let it go any further, so I don't know what would happen.  I have never experienced any steam or over coolant overflow. Perhaps my worry is unfounded?  Did I mention my block is .060" over?

???  I guess I don't understand your statements or questions in either post.  My Thunderbird drives around here in San Antonio, TX and idles just fine with AC, alternator, but will get up to 190* if driven hard from traffic light to the next traffic light, then cools down at idle.   Joe-JDC

JDC