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Thunderbird Cooling Questions?

Posted By Florida_Phil 4 Years Ago
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DryLakesRacer
Posted 4 Years Ago
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55blacktie, I changed my Ford-O to a 62 Cruise-O and then the rear end. Never been happier with the car.
I’m not familiar with all you can do with the Thunderbird spacers or thicker blades on the pump but it still comes down to water movement. At idle in a parade or waiting at a long signal if your not moving water thru the radiator your temp is going to creep up. I fit a shroud to my 56 and it never had one and a 5 blade fan while searching for a fix I felt confident enough that this winter I installed AC. These new compressors don’t seen to have the same load on the engine as the old one's so this summer I’m not looking any temp problems. Good luck...

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.
DANIEL TINDER
Posted 4 Years Ago
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[quote]312YBlock (4/25/2021)
Hi Phil, if you have the original timing chain extension “water pump spacer” there is an internal flaw in its design that diminishes water pump flow and contributes to overheating at idle. As was mentioned by 55blacktie Chris Ames did formal thermal dynamics testing on a prototype he developed, and proved his theory. Chris published the results of coolant flow tests at specific engine RPMs, comparing the original spacer with his design, the results are quite impressive. I was one of the early purchasers of his replacement and met him in person at a regional in New Jersey a couple years back. I have it installed in my 312 and it’s all he says it is. I have a six blade clutch fan, Griffen aluminum radiator and a 170 degree thermostat. With Chris’s spacer I don’t run over 170 degrees which is approximately 4 fifths of the way to the end of the solid white line, the end of which is 190 degrees while in motion. In heavy stop and go traffic it can get to 190 or slightly over, but 190 is nothing and when moving again the temperature quickly drops back to normal. I would recommend sticking with your water pump as a “high flow” pump will mask but not correct the design flaw in the spacer. While there are a number of things that can contribute to our Y blocks overheating Chris’s spacer hits one right on the nose. I highly recommend it 🚗.

If he ever gets around to casting them in aluminum, I will order one.  In the meantime, the orig. CASCO modified pump I bought years ago solved all my overheating issues (and I run zero coolant pressure).





6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
Florida_Phil
Posted 4 Years Ago
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Thanks for the input.  My TBird has a manual transmission with OD and 4.11 gears. At 60 mph, I turn about 2,200 RPM in 3rd gear OD.  My car also has a 170 degree thermostat. I never turn my engine over 5,000 RPM.   It stays at 170-180 degrees whenever it's moving. In the summer sitting in a traffic jam or waiting in line, the temp creeps up.  So far it has not boiled over.  Casco wants $140 including freight for their pulley.  I bought one from Summit for $50.  If that doesn't do the job, I'll look into the improved spacer.


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DryLakesRacer
Posted 4 Years Ago
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As I remember I had to use a shorter fan belt; the generator at that time didn’t have enough movement. I hope it works for as it did for me. At 2200 I’m right at 65 now and can run over 70 and like the lower rpm keeping up with highway traffic and still hearing the radio.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.
2721955meteor
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SOUNDS like you have most of the answers to water flow,1 exception is restricting the bypass flow you will promote cavitation especially in arias with no need for antifreeze. as the therm opens and closes the bypass eliminates cavitation. you won't notice until the therm aria will be eroded, as well the back cylendrs 4 and 8 will de eroded.  have used several blocks that when bored water was found required sleeves in those 2 cylinders,as water flows
around and up to cylinder heads. the better water flow you have addressed will increase cavitation as stat opens  and closes
55blacktie
Posted 4 Years Ago
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With the Fordomatic and 3.31 gears, it just felt like it needed another gear on the highway. The last "modern" car I owned without overdrive was a 1977 B210 Datsun, and it needed it. 

Phil, what's the part number for that Summit wp pulley? Diameter? Depth? Grove correct depth and width? Thanks.
Florida_Phil
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The pulley I ordered was by Mr. Gasket  It's chrome.
Summit  MRG-8826, Mfr. #: 8826
Water Pump Pulley, V-belt Style, 1-groove, Steel, Chrome, 6.125 in. O.D., Ford,289

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55blacktie
Posted 4 Years Ago
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I hope it works. The Mustang single pulleys have an overall depth of 2 3/8-2 7/16. My OEM 55 wp pulley has an overall depth of less than 2."
oldcarmark
Posted 4 Years Ago
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Will these Pulleys work on non Thunderbird passenger cars?

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Florida_Phil
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I'll let you know.


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