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Hoosier Hurricane
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Group: Moderators
Last Active: 4 hours ago
Posts: 3.7K,
Visits: 322.1K
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Mark, I think the T-Bird pulleys are "deeper" than the passenger car pulleys.
John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

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DryLakesRacer
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 1.7K,
Visits: 340.0K
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oldcarmark, here are photos of the Mustang single belt water pump pulley from Summit on a 56 Ford Victoria 292 painted black. When I did it, I put one of the spacers I bought from Summit at the same time. They sell the spacer kit with 3 thin spacers to help with belt alignment. Since that time AC was added and the alternator moved from the bottom to the top. I used the last two spacers to the front of the pulley so the fan would clear the 3rd pulley for the AC pump and would help centering the fan in the shroud. There was just enough of the hub to still center the fan. 
56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.
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55blacktie
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 14 hours ago
Posts: 1.1K,
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I remeasured the depth of my OEM 55 T-bird wp pulley. It is exactly 1 13/16."
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Cliff
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 Months Ago
Posts: 863,
Visits: 13.3K
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A slant 6 water pump pulley fits with no spacers (Dodge, Plymouth), early ones have the correct belt width, newer ones have a narrow belt (will still work).
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Florida_Phil
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 Years Ago
Posts: 1.2K,
Visits: 285.6K
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The 6" chrome Summit water pump pulley I purchased is about 1/2 Inch longer than the stock Tbird pulley. The Tbird belt width is also wider. It could be made to work with 1/2" shims. Looks like I'll be buying the Casco pulley. Hope it's worth the money.

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yblock57
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Week
Posts: 98,
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A little late to the party. Recently installed the casco pump on the '57 bird along with the larger 170* thermostat and some parts house 'water wetter' additive. Nothing else was changed. Still running stock brass radiator (re-cored) & water pump pulley. I do have a/c with a 6 blade fan. No electric fans.
I can idle the car for 25 min in the garage and the temp gauge never creeps past halfway. Could not get away with this before the new pump. Considered the updated spacer behind the pump but wanted to try the pump first to try and save some $$$. Looks like the pump & thermostat did the trick for me.
Kent — Round Rock, TX '56 F-100 | '56 Crown Vic | '57 Fairlaine 500 | '57 Thunderbird
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Cliff
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 Months Ago
Posts: 863,
Visits: 13.3K
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Hi, Consider blue printing your stock pump, there is a spec for the impeller to the housing, I think you will find the problem for no flow at idle.
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2721955meteor
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 927,
Visits: 190.0K
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re over heating. from reading all the posts' am puzzled, by coating exhaust manifolds and installing with no gasket so heat goes into the heads makes no scents, when the object is heating issues. my experience as a licensed hd mechanic, and retired service manager for the largest cat dealer globally tells me getting as much heat as possible out the exhaust and away from the engine cooling system.is paramount. exhaust gaskets and grade 8 bolts with proper flat washers will eliminate leaks. why grade 8 they are stronger and will stretch,and return to original length. the thick grade 8 flats will compensate for the crude holes in exhaust manifolds. exhaust manifolds on turboed Diesel engines run red-hot for years and use grade 8 with hardened washers and the turbo is at the end as high exhaust temp speeds up the turbo. several years ago on this site a guy addressed the bird heating, replaced the shroud flushed the rad and engine water installed, new therm, removed blocked bypass no more heating issues. the speeding the water pump seems a positive upgrade. but remember cavitation is a un seen monster. some will ignore my chatter, the other is a buyas to only listening to certain posters. thats ok
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Joe-JDC
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 4 hours ago
Posts: 754,
Visits: 21.9K
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Installing the exhaust manifolds directly to the heads will not cause the heads to run hotter. Ford did it that way on millions of engines. We put gaskets there because of rust pitting and imperfections to seal those pitting issues. The gasket really doesn't affect head temperature significantly. It is a seal issue. New vehicles use steel shims as a gasket material, and that does not insulate the exhaust from the heads. Joe-JDC
JDC
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2721955meteor
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 927,
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Joe-JDC (4/30/2021)
Installing the exhaust manifolds directly to the heads will not cause the heads to run hotter. Ford did it that way on millions of engines. We put gaskets there because of rust pitting and imperfections to seal those pitting issues. The gasket really doesn't affect head temperature significantly. It is a seal issue. New vehicles use steel shims as a gasket material, and that does not insulate the exhaust from the heads. Joe-JDC FORD DID NOT MAKE MILLIONS OF YBLOCKS IN TBIRDS WITH USELES MADE SPACER FOR WATER PUMPS.STEEL SHIMED GASKETS IN MILLION OF ENGINES WHER FINE. BUT MILLIONS OF FORD V8 ENGINES WHER FAMOUS FOR BROKEN AND LOOSENING CAPSCREWS WITH POOR LOCKTABS. HAD THEY USED GOOD HARDWARE AND WASHERS 1/2 AMILLION WOULD HAVE BIN OK. REFERENCE TO HEAT TRANSFER CAME FROME COATING EXHAST MANIFOLDS,IN A ATEMPT TO KEEP THEN TIGHT AND PUTING MORE HEAT INTO HEADS,THAT DID NOTHING TO HELP HEATING TBIRDS 5 6AND 7.
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