No reason to be sorry.

The valve mounting on the actual block behind the valley pan has no provision/protection for/of the splash deflector located on the underside of the actual valley pan. The valve inlet is fully exposed to splash from the distributor drive. That is fact. Those tapped holes he re-sized are meant for throttle linkage mounting on some applications.

The vacuum source shown in the ILL is not meant for a PCV signal as I explained. It is tied into separate runners and not the plenum as to not distribute the fumes among all cylinders equally. It will load the individual runners/cylinders it is sourced to. I have seen that Ill many times and it's description is incorrect. That is someone's interpretation.

FORD did use that method on its' early sixties 2V 292 but that does not make it efficient. Most likely is was done for cost. The 4V install using a vacuum signal inlet carb spacer is correct.

All of this is/was early design and significant improvements have been made after. No reason (IMO) not to ventilate the crankcase in a more efficient manner.

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Here are just a few links to past discussions concerning PCV valves and their installations.  There are many more if going to the 'Search' function.
 
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost153552.aspx
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost153327.aspx
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost152536.aspx
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost142341.aspx
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost141582.aspx

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

This illustration may help that shows the 2V and 4V set up. I run my PCV line straight into a port on my 390 Holley.

Just to aggravate everyone a little further-

The above ILL was used in the 1957/63 LT MPC. The 2V system was a carry-over from the PASS CAR design - first used. FORD kept using this system on both car and truck until the FYB was retired. The 4V version was LT only as there was no 4V FYB used in PASS CAR (61/62).

If you notice in the 4V install, there is a tube (6758). This was actually a cooling tube wheres any mist that got by the valley pan baffle cooled somewhat and dropped back down the tube before being ingested into the engine (hopefully).

PCV is an emissions device but it also a way the crankcase is ventilated of blow-by. All depends on engine condition, fuel curve and strength of vacuum signal/properly calibrated valve. The only way to determine if the system is functioning properly is by the vacuum pull test (as mentioned) and/or oil analysis,

Seems "to work fine" is not an option on a hi-dollar engine (IMO anyway).

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I have completed the PVC plumbing for my dual quads. I’m not a “hose” lover and like things as neat as my skills can accomplish. Under or at the back/front of the rear carb would probably be best but I’m going with the threaded hole in the center.

The fuel hose in the photo is available in different sizes and I used 1/2” I bought them when I did my sons 302 GMC for his PCV and water lines. I buy them for the bends. I also purchased a roll of 1/2” aluminum tubing and a 1/2” bender so it made this installation easier since I had the tooling and a lot of tubing to make mistakes.

The valve is for a 61-2 Mercury/Ford and pickups to 64. I’m waiting for the block off for the side breather to test it all. The last photo is of the air filter which shows that air entering the engine will be filtered air from the inside of the air cleaner.
After the test run yesterday for the oil pump repair there was no oil evidence on the washer/dryer pans I keep under the car or a drip starting anywhere on the engine.



56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

I’ve received the block off plate and ran the engine. Minor carb adjustments were needed. A vacuum gage on the crankcase thru the oil dipstick with everything sealed off was 1-1/2 inches. The oil fill will hold a blue paper shop towel at idle in gear with AC on. I also placed the air cleaner bottom and the same paper will stay on it. The dipstick has a leather seal at the top.
Following Dearborn’s test; I held the palm of my hand on the oil fill tube. When I removed it there was a whoosh sound.
If this helps anyone else I’m happy.. for now I’m thru being under my car for a while I hope.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

Very nice work and thanks for the vacuum information.   Where do you get the "snake" hose?  That would be very useful for just such a purpose and much more.


64F100 57FAIRLANE500

Thank you, took too long but happy so far. Google “universal molded fuel line hose”
Amazon took a week. Many sizes, not inexpensive but when needed a life saver.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

VERY CLEAN INSTALL!

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Florida Phil... I must heartily agree with the smell. Our garage is connected to our home with kitchen door access and after 2 times out driving and coming home there is definitely a smell difference in the garage. I’ve lived with the open system for 10 years and forgot how nice it is for the garage not to have the old burned oil smell.
So far the pans under the engine do not show any sign of drips. The resealing of the oil pump and stuck bypass I’m sure helped with that.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.